
Qass. 



Book. 



COPYRIGHT DbPOSiT 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2010 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/glimpsesofstlawrOOtayl 







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UMPSES 




DOWN THE 



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GLEN MOUNTAIN HOUSE, 

WATKINS CLEN, N. Y. 



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Watkins Glen is rcichcd from llu- Thousaiui Im.hmis \ i.i im; Ulica & Hl:u k River R. R. 
to Ulica and ihcncc to Geneva ii|)on the N. Y. Cenlral R. R., or from Capo \'iii' tiii via the 
Rome, VValeriown iV OKdcnsburK R. R. to Syracuse and thence to (iencva, where steamer 
upon Seneca Lake meets trains, and affords a |)icturesque voyage of forty miles to Watkins 
upon this lovely inland siicct of water. 

P.iriirs lirsiring to cngat^e nidins please adilress 

A. .J. MICHENER, Phoprtetor. 



.xj 





■i/'ijDcfC.M./:. 



" Nature never did betray 
The heart that loved her; 'tis her privilege, 
Through all the years of this our life, to lead 
From joy to joy; for she can so inform 
The mind that is within us, so impress 
With quietness and beauty, and so feed 
With lofty thoughts, that neither evil tongues. 
Rash judgments, nor sneers of selfish men. 
Nor greetings where no kindness is, nor all 
The dreary intercourse of daily life. 
Shall e'er prevail against us, or disturb 
Our cheerful faith that all which we behold 
Is full of blessing." 



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GLIMPSES 



'1^ -^e> 




AMONG 

THE ISLANDS. 



THE RAPIDS, 



IN CANr.^..'.-. CI 



1S&4, 




N I'reaking literary ground for rearing the 
strKcture of a book descriptive of the nature 
of siimnier-life upon the St. Lawrence River, the writer 
admits a sense of keen satisfaction in the 7<.'ork at hand. 

Jf'riting with a pen somewhat given to random disser- 
tations upon things and places, both North and South, 
7chere the path'waxs of pleasure-travel are trod the hardest, 
one might easily drop into the sin of hackneyed phrases. 

There is no inspiration in the sky of the gray December 
day upon which this is icritten, and memory, which ever 
responds in pleasurable sympathy to thoughts of dog- day 
experiences atnong the Thousand fslands, can scarce be 
trusted to presently set forth in proper relief the many 
individually unimportant but collectively vital minor inci- 
dents -which go to make up the grand total of our theme. 
ft is fortunate, therefore, that the present icork is but the 
compilation and harmonious dovetailing of many memo- 
randa pencilled under the fleeting inspiration of the hours 
of which they tell, while our pictures are the faithful 
refle.x of photographs and sketches then a nil there made. 

The pages to come may, therefore, be trusted to fairly 
tell their tale, and to give the stranger, loho floats for the 
first time iloii'n the broad and limpid outflow of the lakes, 
ti foretiiste of the glories tohich ai^'ait him. 

f'erhaps, too, there may be some things neio to the old 
lialtilur, and, doubtless, there iire many good things left 
untold, for loant of room, or by the oversight of one who 
wets, not long ago, himself a strange/- to this most 7('ond/r>us 
and varied of American summer resorts. 

I' III'. AI'IJJOK. 
Nkw Ymkk. D<( . isih, 1BS3. 




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AWRBNeE 



IV&R. 




" Dame Nature once, while coating well 
This fiery mass o'er which we dwell, 

Had surplus left of ends and outs. 
These masses vast in ruin thrown. 
By streamlet worn and moss o'ergrown, 

In winrowed heaps lie hereabouts." 



IMONG the j^ossibilities in which the 

"coming man" naay rejoice during 

his tender j^ears, there is room for a 

" geography of resorts." There is no 

other subject upon whicli the average 

American is so ill-informed as that of 

the general location of the pleasant 

and wonderful places of our land. 

Perhaps we should not expect too 
much of this present generation, for 
only just now are we beginning to 
^^ api^reciate and make use of the mar- 
^-. velous richness of scenery with which 

^„ our country is crowded. There seems 

IJ little excuse, however, for the very 

= general haziness of knowledge which 

__ ^,„_^^^_, ^ _-rr" ^ have been ijained to discover as to 

J. ^IH^^E^^^^^ the quarter of the globe in which 

_,5r- ,^_^ __ "^^mK^T^^-'S^ : the Thousand Islands are located, or 

^^^,=m= =^ jg^*f^^^^gL. even where the peerless St. Lawrence 

„ . .-^^j^ -.£^^B=;j^^^^^^ zS^ _ stretches its shining and jeweled 

- -"^ -""" -- -' '^^_^^~~ ..^. -.^ . ■ length, whence its source and where- 

— ~"~~ "~ ~ unto it flows. 

I have heard fellow-travelers plan 
to spend one and the same day at Niagara Falls and Alexandria Bay. I have been 
asked if the St. Lawrence was in Maine, and if Mt. Desert was not the largest of 
the Thousand Island group ; while a very large number of people are firmly of the 
behef that all of the islands are below Montreal. One— only one— very fresh traveler 
once inquired of me if foot-bridges connected all of the islands. 

From the foregoing it will be seen that the most important and foremost feature 
herein contained is the settlement of exact location. 

Know, then, that the St. Lawrence River is the volume of the overflow of Lakes 
Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie and Ontario, together with that of all their bays and 
tributary rivers. Its course is in a general northeastern direction. 

From the point of its debouchere from Lake Ontario to the crossing of the 45th 
parallel at Cornwall, it forms the boundary line between New York State and the 
Province of Ontario, Canada, a distance of eighty-five miles. For a further distance 
of a trifle more than four hundred miles it leads through the Canadian provinces of 
Montreal, Three Rivers and Quebec. The final two hundred miles, or nearly all of 
that portion below the City of Quebec, is practically a vast sound, varyirg in width 



from six or eight to thirty miles. The reader is here referred to the table of distances 
to be found upon another page. 

Oui- present undertaking deals chiefly with that portion of the river of the greatest 
interest to the touiist, all of it above Montreal and embracing the Thousand Islands 
and the series of rapids. 

The St. Lawrence River presents some features which are unique. Being the 
outflow of the great inland seas, its water is always perfectly pure. It is never 
subject to floods. Its attractions as a resort for angling and fishing with the spoon 
are now efliciently protected by law, while the vast depths of Ontario and the efforts 
of the St. Lawrence Anglers' Association give assm-ance that the supply of game fish 
will not be appreciably diminished in coming years. The prevailing winds during 
the summer season sweep down upon the islands purified by their passage over the 
resinous Canadian forests and over the wide expanse of the lake, reaching the nostrils 
of the happy islanders dry and bracing and cool. 

It has been noted by observant visitors that among the islands in the mid-summer 
season there is no dew at night, although upon the mainland, a mile or so back from 
the river, it is at times quite heavy. This fact is explained in the same manner as the 
existence of the well-known thermal belt along Niagara Eiver, where, upon a 
naiTow ribbon of land along the stream, tlie frost never kills the peach germs, being 
disturbed and prevented from forming by the current of air, sometimes almost 
imperceptible, induced by the moving of the stream. 

Among the islands of the St. Lawrence, and esijecially the portion above Wellsley 
Island, the great width of the river, averaging some nine miles, reduces the current to 
a pace hardly noticeable. It is sufficient, however, to prevent the dew from forming 
ui'ion the contiguous land. 

This is a land of rocks and rills. There are no malarial wastes of standing 
water, and even the pestiferous mosquito, when he does appear, which is only after 
unusual periods of wet weather, loses the confidence and frisky assurance which lias 
made liim tlie terror of the Jersey coast. 

The Thousand Island region is practically an estuary of Lake Ontario, ]>rojected 
from its eastern extreme, and thickly strewn with rocky islets of all shapes and sizes 
covered (as a journalistic friend of mine recently put it in the Neir York Tinu'-s) with 
Cliristmas trees. The actual numlier of the islands, when considered as fragments of 
soil or rock projected above the surface of the water, is dependent largely upon the 
slight effect of a dry or a wet season, a fall of a foot in the depth of the river adding 
very materially' to the count. In the Treaty of Ghent the islands are oflScially stated 
as numbering 1692. 

Between and among these thri'.-id inniiiiMTnlilc clKiinicls. lin-c iniuriiig ;i swill aiMJ 
crystal tide through some jjent-uji chasm, and there forming in deep, ttilly pools imik h 
loved by the wary black bass, 'neath the shadow of some castellated crag. 

These every-varying features, and the constant change of vista alTorded the 
voyager, overflowing ;it every turn with une.\i)ected in.stances of those coiidiiiiatidns 
of wattT, laiiii .iikI s1<\ \\ hiili we recognize as bciiuliriil. Ilusc tii;ikc up llic cli.iriii 
and glory of tiic ujjpcr St. Lawrence River. 

Much has been said by a multitude of writers concerning the rapids of tlic St. 
Lawrence, down which the large and staimcli iiassenger steamers daily pcrfnun liirir 
exciting and appai'cntly ])erilous descent. These ra|)ids an^ seven in niinilnr. :iiiii are 
divided by intervals of smooth waters and broad lakes. Between (he passage ot (lie 
Ijong Sault and the Lachiue there is an interval in voyaging down stream of 
about five hours. 

The return is made by all c'raft a ion rid I lie lapids lliroii;;li a series of costly canals. 

Montreal is built at the iinnie<liate head of deep water na viu;a(ion, and her wliarves 
are bu.sy with the loading ami unloading of many huge transatlantic steamships. 

The int«-rnational boundary line along the upjii'r river iH laid in midsticam. thus 
dividing the islaufls. While many of the most charming islets, bays ami cjianiiels are 
to be ff)urid upon Die Canadian side, the artifieia I Kcaiilies arc almost enl iiel\ ( on lime I 
to the Amerir-aii Islands. Here are all of the large summer hotels, and here. ranj;inK a 
score of miles, are the lovely and costly villas of oni niii<liant prirucs, and th<' less 



pretentious cottages of tlie summer dwellers-at-large. Provincial conservatism has 
lately been broken through, however, and the beautiful wilderness across the line, 
where the best fishing, the finest camping, and the most satisfactory refuge from 
civilization is found, will soon become peopled with a large cottage population from 
the Canadian cities. Last season a considerable number of islands were leased at 
auction by the Canadian Government for a period of twenty years, at a small annual 
rental, subject to renewal at the pleasure of the lessee. 

People loiter late upon the porches in the hammock or drifting in boats 'neath 
tlie dangerous witchery of the moon, and are astir early in the morning. Six hours 
of sleep seem plenty in this fresh and exuberant atmosphere. 

If you come from the West, you will be on board the Rothesay at Clayton just as 
the sun has fairly thrown off the rosy drapery of his couch, and touching at Round 
Island, Thousand Island Park, Central Park and Alexandria Bay, within the next 
hour you will find the pretty skiffs or convenient steam yachts of scores of cottages 
waiting to capture and bear away among the islands their happy, newly-arrived 
guests, and you are indeed fortunate if you are numbered among these. 

There is a strange enchantment in the stilly mornings liere. The city, its pressing 
cares, its hurry, heedless, and often heartless strife for supremacy, seem far away, and 
as unreal as a troubled dream that is past. Sometimes the voices of nature hint to us 
that here is the true life to lead, that all else is dross and a delusion. What more could 
the heart wish, indeed, than to live as the birds live, in perpetual summer, following 
with those one loves these still and restful mornings southward, dreaming still under 
their potent charm when mid-winter finds them smiling among the palm-groves of 
the Bahamas? 

There are voices upon tlie mainland, half a mile away; the many farm-sounds 
come over to us in mellow yet distant waves of sound. The thud, thud, of oars in 
row-locks from four or five miles off among the islands can be caught by a quick ear, 
and the rumbling of a train along the Grand Trunk Railway, twelve miles distant, 
seems to come from just across the channel. 

The umber smoke of a passing steamer stains the pure canvas of the morning sky 
for an hour afterwards, and its swell rolls up with lazy but loud plashing along the 
rocks of yonder bay, long after the disturbing cause has disappeared down the 
American channel. 

In front of the hotels the boatmen are busy with their boats, stowing away all of 
the concomitants of a day's fishing according to the ethics of the region. Each boat 
contains two, besides the oarsman. Early breakfasts are in order for those who are 
going fishing. Let us make ready for the day's sport ! 




M0RSEL OP 



ISTORY. 



■ Tlie sea of fortune cloth not ever flow : 
She draws her favors to the lowest ebb. 
Her tides have equal times to come and go, 
Her loom doth weave the fine and coarsest web." 




vuoN \sv^HO 



.D tilings are ahvays attractive, btit. never- 
theless, Americans are fond of taking 
their history in homeopathic doses. 

The present has the inestimable value 
of ]ioic; the future is rich with the un- 
woi-ked veins of opportunity, but the 
past is only useful in the warning it 
gives to ambition, the lessons it pro- 
claims of wasted effort, the rise and 
decline of 2)eoples, the shifting of money 
centres through the centuries, and tlie 
grand examples of patriotism by wliich 
the structure of this Republic has been 
reared, and through the contem]ilation of 
which we may value our birth-right and 
hand down the institution of Freedom to 
coming generations intact and purified, 
lliere comes to every reflective luiiid in hours of leisure a furtive wish to know 
sometliiug of tlie tradition of such regions a.s (liis: of the tribes that two i-enturies 
ago held these islands and fought their small but bloody wars here. 

There is, too, in such border regions as this, a woof of romance in the attrition 
between those who live under different flags. Conditions become critical now and 
tlien. Bill Johnstons arise, demagogues harangue, statesmen confer, diplomats lie to 
each other, forts are reinforced, but iiftcr all, somehow, war is not quite fanned 
into being. 

Tlie embers seem dead ashes now. and we all heartily wish tJKit they shall 
remain .so. 

But iittli- more than two centuries ago the island regicm was the debalal)le 
ground between warring and relentless Indian natitms. That i)opulous and rich agri- 
cultural region known to us as Jetferson County, is reputed a rich lidil to (lie ;iiiti(|Ma- 
rian. {*) Its hills still bear the faint scars of defensive works. 

The Irotpiois, known later as the " Six Nations," held I he rid: (crriloiy of ( cul ral 
and Western New Y(»rk. Tin; Adirondaeks, luore savage and aggicssivc lillcil ilic 
mountains. The Algon<|uins and Otlawas occu])i(id Eastern Canada, while the 
Hurons ranged through the wilderness more |o I he w isl w.ini .iihI noiih ol |„ike 
Ontario, then known as Lakr- Frontenae. 

In tlie siiiiiiner of HJTo, F<»rt Frontenae, a strong blockhouse and I ia<liiig-posl, was 
establislied at the present site of Kingston by the illustrious count of thai name, and 
regular coiuniunication niainlained with the French post at Niagara. 

In HiHU tlu! hostile attitudi; of the InHpiois, now niasleis of ( 'anada, niaije (his 
fort untenable, and it was l)lown up, together with a consideral.lc lleetof vessels, by the 
conunandcint, M. DeVaivcnes, who retreated down the river to Abmtreal. 



* The ThouHUiul IhIuiuIh of the Kt. Lawroiicc. |iii|.''c 1. Iloiii^h. 



XSK.IJ^L^TIJL 




W^%^S''"-^s ''^<Ie.iW 



Upon the return of Count Frontenac to Canada the following autumn, he at once 
caused the fort to be rebuilt. 

A time-worn book is at my hand as I write. 

This book is made up of letters written chiefly from Canada, by an adventurous 
explorer, the Baron de Lahontan, during the years from 1683 to 1695, "to an old relation 
on account of assistance given." ("•') 

Lahontan seems to have been a brave explorer, with a keen sense of humor and 
power of satire, very fond of life among the Indians, with whom he became a great 
favorite. He had been worsted in the political intrigues of France, and no small 
entertainment may be had from his merciless handling of his persecutors who were 
in favor around the throne of Louis XVI. 

Lahontan's book was first printed in Dutch at the Hague, and afterwards trans- 
lated into English. It was read by the Europeans with great interest, and long held a 
high place as an authority upon Canadian matters. 

The book is full of quaint accounts of the constant wars between the Iroquois and 
Hui'ons, both of which peoples occupied the river territory and made the St. Lawrence 
their great highw^ay. The former, much the stronger, finally drove away or extermi- 
nated the unhappy Hurons. 

We may fairly sujapose that our beautiful islands were once the scenes of many 
cruel and barbarous scenes of pillage and murder. 

It was the custom with French explorers and traders in returning down the rapids, 
after having toiled up stream by the same route, to compel Indian prisoners to precede 
them in canoes in order to show them the channel. The vicinity of the rapids was a 
favorite place of ambtish between the warring nations, and many bloody fights have 
occurred there. 

Even in Lahontan's day the navigation of the river and great lakes was no new 
thing. Traders, explorers and Jesuit missionaries had long traversed Lake Frontenac, 
keeping along the shores in batteaux, and a strong fort had been established at 

* Some New Voyages to North America.— Baron de Lahontan. Loaned by S. B. Hance, Esq., of Cape 
Vincent, N. Y. 





i^' ..' 



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TW?. TRtSCW Of 0\.0 fOM 0« CKRVtIOU \SiMiQ 




Niagara, and kept in frequent comnninicatiou with that at Frontenac. A great trade 
in pelti'ies had arisen, and many of the colonial merchants were becoming wealthy 
from this source. 

In 1678. Daniel Graysolon DuLuth had penetrated the whole lake system to the 
point now occupied by the thriving city bearing his name. Twenty years earlier than 
this, two illiterate traders, named Groseiller and Redissou, passed this way and reached 
the western shore of Superior. They, however, made no maps and kept no records of 
tlieir voyage. After Hennepin, who fii'st navigated the upper Mississippi, and DuLuth 

came LeSueur in 1683, 
__.-. ' who built a trading- 

fort upon Lake Peijiu. 
and in 1687 a very good 
map of regions north 
and west of Lake Supe- 
rior liad already been 
made by an expert 
topographer u a m e d 
Franquelin. To all of 
this vast territory, 
where trade was just 
beginning to assert 
itself, the majestic 
St. Lawrence was the 
commercial as well as 
the aqueous outlet. 

The St. Lawrence was 
orginally known as the 
Great River of Canada, 
and was also known by the names of Cataraqui and the Iroquois. The name it now 
bears was bestowed upon it by the explorer Jacques Cartier. who first penetrated its 
moutli upon the festival day of St Lawrence. 

Nearly opposite Cape Vincent, upon the head of Carleton Island, are extensive 
remains of a fortress. The liuge stone chimneys still standing awake the curiosity of 
the jiassing stranger. 

The f)rigiu oi this work was fur many years ascribed to the Frencli. but it has now 
been definitely established that the work was that of the English, (juile a century 
after tlie rebudding of Fort Frontenac. Fort Carleton stands tipon a commanding 
plateau looking towards the blue waters of the lake. Projected froTu its base is a pi- 
ninsuhi which spreads to the right and left like tlie letter "T," thus forming two 
charniing bays. Upon tliis projection are built several pretty cottages and the 
snninier club-liou.ses of merry coteries from Utica and Itliaca. Against the rocky 
exposure, facing the lake, tlie blue waters lasli tliemselves into foam, wliile tlie little 
bays tliat wash the natural base of the fort are as calm as a mirror. 

The Aiiu'ricaii Cliaiinel is at this ])oint nearly or (|uito Iwo miles in widlli. 1'iic 
dreaded " Featlier-bed Shoals '' are spread like ror.il reds over most of lis witllh. 
I»n)virig anything hut a featiier-lied to the unliappy niariiier wlio striUes llicni. The 
deep water is clf>se iiii(hT tiie shadow of the fort. Its admirable site \\ ill thus Ic 
appn-ciated. 

It presj-nts to the visitor who cliiiibs (he s(cc|) a<(livity llic ;i|i|h .ir.iiKc dI a 
scientific work. Its trench is cut upon three si<les deep into the rock, the material 
removed being iiseil to level iij) the .sp.iic beyond. A wide, open plain upon one 
hand and inipracticalile cliir upon the oilier. woiiM ninli i I he (;isk <>C a .stonning- 
party a h.ird one. 

Several huge Htone chiiniieys. the mdy features seen liDin I lie ii\c r. si ill iii.irk I he 
site of fonnr-r f>arraeks and cook-hou.ses. A single oak tiniher of the sallyp"it still 
bridges the treneli; h;inly Hhniblx'ry grows where (lie otlicers' (piarters stoo<l, .ind a 

well, wide anil deep, hides truth beneath tons cjf debris, thrown into its upci Ili 

by generati'ins of wide-nioiithed yokels and cureless travelers. We arc tuM tliil 



13 

beneath the clear waters of the north-west bay we may see the frame of a gunboat, 
scuttled and sunk here once upon a time. The view from the grassy earthwork is 
superb. The wide beginning of the St. Lawrence is all before us, and far beyond rests 
Ontario. Cape Vincent shimmers in the summer heat five miles away. Fishing 
parties dot the shoals, clouds of white canvas are spread from the tall spars of trading 
schooners, and, perchance, a grain steamer from Detroit stains the horizon with the 
black vapor from her soft-coal fuel. 

It is a good place to be upon an August day, and yet I will not urge picnickers to 
go there, for they are the natural foes of all that is strange and interesting, and will 
carry off the stones of the old Fort fast enough. Some of them have within a few 
yeai's tripped up several of the fine chimneys. 

During the war of 1812-14, both the British and Americans created formidable 
fleets of war-ships upon Lake Ontario, and at the close of the conflict still others were 
in course of construction. The treaty stipulated that neither nation should maintain 
more than a single armed vessel of one gun upon the lake, and the costly fleets, which 
never met in strife, were given over to the slow but sure destruction of time. At 
Sackett's Harbor, the chance visitor might have seen until a few months since the 
giant hull of the frigate New Orleans still upon the stocks, after a lapse of seventy 
years. Last winter the huge hull fell over while workmen were engaged in 
its demolition, killing several of them. Military and naval operations upon the 
river, hy either nation, have never proven either very effective or profitable ; 
and although great flotillas have passed with their panoply of war down among these 
islands more than once, they have added no lustre to the pages of history. A cer- 
tain halo of romance seems to linger around the story of the " Patriot" war of '37-8, 
when an effort was made upon both sides of the line to coerce Canada into the folds of 
Uncle Sam. The best-remembered incident connected with this small war, is the 
burning of the Canadian steamer Sir William Peel, in the American channel, below 
the xjresent "Jolly Oaks," by "Bill" Johnston and his followers. The Peel was a 
passenger vessel, and was biu'ned in retaliation for the capture and destruction of the 
steamer Caroline, in Niagara river, by Loyalists. 

The island region was scoured by both British and American troops in pursuit of the 
incendiaries, but Johnston eluded them from June to November, when he and some of 
his partisans were imprisoned for a short time. His political sins seem to have been for- 
given him, however, for he was in late years keeper of the Rock Island Lighthouse, at 
the head of the American ciianuel. 

The absurd and somewhat sanguinary " Battle of the Windmill," referred to else- 
where, occurred in the same year as Johnston's crusade. 

Upon old maps of Northern New York the name of Castorland appears. It was a 
city upon paper located eight miles north of Lowville upon the Utica and Black River 
Railroad, where trains stop for meals, and, indeed, still figures as a station upon the 
time-table of that line. 

In or about the year 1793, a French traveler named James D. Le Ray de Chaumont, 
came to the St. Lawrence. He was doubtless one of the same family of Protestant 
Chaumonts of which a member was saved from the galleys, through the humane in- 
fluence of Voltaire, whether he had been condemned for religion's sake. 

This traveler was concerned in the promotion of an ideal colony, the prospectus 
issued in Paris which set forth in the most glowing terms the splendid future of the 
region, under the influence of which many French people, like their countrymen, who 
pinned their faith to George Law's greater Louisiana bubble, either emigrated to this 
promised land or freely bought its bonds. The fever for emigration, too, was, un- 
doubtedly stimulated by the disordered political conditions surrounding the throne of 
Louis XIV., and which in that year resulted in his execution. Chaumont, who verified 
his own faith in the region by coming hither with his family, has done much to im- 
press his individuality upon the river in the names he bestowed upon leading points, 
and which are still preserved. 

Alexandria Bay was named by him after a daughter, and here, it is recorded, that 
J. D. Le Ray (the Chaumont having been dropped under republican influences) bviilt 
the first tavern in 1818. 



14 



Cape Vincent was named in honor of the son of de Chaumont, and Theresa after 
another daughter. Chaumont Bay perpetuates the memory of the enterprising French- 
man himself. 

The village of Clayton, oiiginally French Creek, was called Cornelia until 18r?3. 
when it was re-christened Clayton, presumably in honor of the Delaware senator of 
that name. 

The writer is especially anxious that these designated notes upon the local history 
of the river, connected as they are by golden threads of romantic fact with much of 
the stately annals of Eui'opoan thrones, should be correct as far as they go. and there- 
fore begs that readers possessed of well-authenticated fragments of history bearing up- 
on by -gone days along the river, or who detect inaccuracies in the foregoing, will 
communicate with him. to the end that this chapter in future editions may become 
more valuable and instructive to the reader. 

The era of hotels, park associations and cottages for summer occupation is com- 
paratively recent. Fifteen years ago the only point that was at all known outside of 
the local population as a place of resoi-t upon the river was Alexandria Bay. The old 
Crossmon House was then very often over-full, and the villagers all took in lodgers. 
Then the new and handsome Crossmon was begun, and soon after the Thousand 
Island House was built by O. G. Staples, who continued to manage it until 
last season. The origin and progress of the several park associations is sketched 
elsewhere. 

Each year witnesses the rearing of scores of costh' and beautiful villas u])on coigns 
of vantage, and island propertj" appreciates rapidly in value. There are now few 
better or safer investments for people with mouej' in hand, than wisely-selected 
building sites upon the Anrericau islands. 

Tlie pleasure-seeking and money-spending citizens of the great West have taken a 
decided fancy to the St. La^An-ence, and are the foremost in the promotion of improve- 
ments. A thorough and systematic advertising of the picturesque claims of the 
river has been undertaken, more especially by Messrs. Leve & Alden. the projectors 
of the now well-known "New American I.ine" of steamers, and this, together with 
other influences, may be safely counted upon to largely increase the volume of travel 
each successive season : and who shall undertake to foretell the brilliant future, 
when tliousands w^lio are as ja^t strangers to our enchanted islands shall yet build 
their summer nests in their midst 't 







■jumi^f 



i«t \JT>0> OVVltt 



Pr0M ^IAGARA pALLS T0 RlAYTGN. 




Beside Ontario's leaping tide, 
Past bay and creek and town, 

Through wood and field, we swiftly ride 
To the river flowing down. 



VIA THE STEAMBOAT EXPRESS. 

H E Steamboat Express, which is a part of tlie 

tlirouj^h route via the St. Lawrence River to 

Montreal, leaves Niagara Falls every evening 

except Saturday at 7.50, and brings travelers 

over the Lake Shore Division of the Rome, 

Watertown and Ogdensburg Railroad and a 

short section of the Utica and Black River 

Railroad from Philadelphia Junction, to 

the thriving town of Clayton, at 6 a.m., 

nraking close and certain connection with the steamer Rotliesay, of the "American 

Line." 

The sleeping cars used u^jon this line are exceptionally comfortable, having no 
upper berths. 

As many travelers prefer making their transits by daylight, a short description of 
this route is in order. 

VIA CAPE VINCENT. 

The morning express train eastward passes down along Niagara River, through 
the historic little town of Lewiston, and then keeps eastward, skirting the southern 
margin of Lake Ontario, affording many pleasant glimpses of the comfortable and 
prosperous home life of the farming population of Western New York. At Charlotte, 
the port of Rochester (which large and beautiful city is only seven miles inland), the 
mouth of the Genesee River is crossed upon a massive iron drawbridge. A short 
distance beyond the train crosses the sand bar which guards the entrance of Iron- 
dequoit Bay, a place of jiopular resort from Rochester, famous for its fishing. Parties 
desiring to stop over here will find good fare and boats with fishing tackle at the ''Sea 
Breeze" or "Newport." 

A stop of forty minutes is made at Oswego, where dinner may be had at either the 
excellent Lake Shore Hotel, at the depot, or at the Doolittle, up-town, famous for its 
"deep rock" water. 

Oswego has many attractions in reserve for the chance visitor. 

Continuing eastward a junction is made at Richland with the train upon the 
Syracuse Division. The next important place is Watertown, which deserves more 
than a passing notice. 

Watertown is one of the prettiest and most enterprising of the cities of northern 
New York. Its name is characteristic. A superb water-power is furnished by the 
impetuous and rock-bound Black River, which courses down from the hills, and in 
passing through the city develops one of the finest cascades in the State. Just below, 
a rather picturesque suspension bridge affords a near view ; but a more extended 
scene, with the fall and bridge for a central feature, may be enjoyed from the windows 
of the Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg Railroad trains going northward, just as they 
approach the depot. 

The business portion of Watertown fronts on a large open space, wisely reserved 
by the founders of the town " for public uses forever." 

Watertown has an "arcade," once a popular feature in many towns of the State. 



i6 




Broad and sli.-iily ini'iiucs lead away I'loiM llir <(|iiai('. ;ind man}' of Ihc lnm^cs nT 
the citiz<Mis are very costly and ornate. 

Paper-mills. carriaKf-'actories, a sewinK-niacliinc works, vacmiin-luake works, 
and a ruunlx-r of flouring mills and machine sliops alTord eniployinciit for a f;reat deal 
of ca|)ital and a large fore*' of (jperatives. 

The Ki'"hy House, less than two wjuares from the depot, and tlic WdddnilV. are 
both good hotels, and as Watcrtown is ui)on the direct pathway ol a lari^c lidc (if 
HUminer travel, the}' know how to take good care of tourists. Tlic Kirliy lias a lice 
carriage at the riepot. 

From Watertown tlw Jiiaiii line ol iIm l,'.,\\'.iV O. KM', leads cast ward \ ia i'liila- 
deiphi.'i Junction (connecting jjy rail willi (lay ton) and Kedwood (connecling hy stage 
witli Alexandria Hay. seven miles distant.) to Moiristown and Ogdenslui g. 

We are, however, going now in anollier direei ion, and .aflcr a slioil hour's ii<lc 
over the Cajx- Vincent Hranch, are sel down iijion the edge ol' I lie Si. Law icnce, jiisl 
where the lake pours it?' hree/.e-tossed waters inlo I he lap ol the great, island -doi |ci| 
chann«'l. 

Tlie ilepot Imilding is a long structure, over one enci ol which the vertical red 
stripes of the I'niled States customs (lag flutter saucily. I here are several steamers 
at the wharf, one of tlieni is t\u' Maiul, which is w.-ulingfor passengers lo Kingston, 
(Canada, wliich is a dozen inilesaway across the islands. 

The Cap"' \ inciiil llotel is con\erMently located at the depot. 



T7 




And here is the new St. Lawrence, 
the stately successor to the Island 
Belle, the most notable evidence of 
local enterprise of the pie&ent season. 
The St. Lawrence is a handsome and 
roomy sidewheel steamboat, which 
was constructed at Clayton during the 
past winter and spring, and is the 
largest craft built along the river for 
some years. She meets every require- 
ment of a iirst-class tourist steamer, 
and will do much to increase the popularity of this route. 

No, we must not go on board yet; let us wait over at least one boat and take a look 
at Cape Vincent. Perhaps you fancy you've seen it from the car windows as you came 
into the station, but you haven't. Its a curious and pleasant town. Its shady main 
street wanders along for a mile or more undecided as to just where to find a spot for 
that vital point, the center of the place. Pretty homes, churches and stores are 
scattered all along. But finally we come across the newly built Crevolin House, and 
catch a glimpse of the handsome Rathbun down the street leading to the river, and 
then we know we are in medias res. 

Under the enlivening influences of summer travel, and the well-known fact that 
" the Cape" is one of the best fishing points upon the river, the pleasant little town is 
growing visibly. Old hotels have been glorified with new paint, refurnished and 
enlarged, while the new house built by the energetic Crevolin, standing upon the site 
of St. Lawrence Hall, destroyed by fire last winter, will add largely to the former 
liberal capacity of the place for entertaining strangers. 

The Rathbun House, managed by Messrs. H. L. Fox & Sou, has long enjoyed a 
favorable reputation as a cool and pleasant summering headquarters for city people. 

The most prominent feature of the water front, as seen in approaching the town, 
is the great white warehouse of Mr. A. B, Cleveland, the seedsman. It is located 
upon a projection of the land protected by a strong wharf. An extensive business in 
fancy peas and beans for seeding jiurposes. The product from this warehouse is in 
demand, not only all over the United States, but in many foreign lands. 

Close beside the warehouse stands the pretty cottage of Mr. Cleveland, wiiose 
grassy lawn reaches to the water's edge. 



iS 




Cajje ^'ilu•^>nl has its rcmi- 
l^i, i'''^^f~^'^-Ws:\^^^^^J^'i^'^^'^'"ti- i?|3 nisceiK-es: Was first settled 

*" —*"***■ -^^s^^^^^- - // .^^ jj point about two miles 

below tlie ])vesent railroad 
depot. Tile first liouse was built by Abijah Putnam 
in 18U1. Some traces of the old village site are yet 
to be found. In 1804 Mr. Putnam sold to John Ma- 
combs aud Peter Sternberg, who at once drew the 
plans for a town. The names of the streets running 
parallel with the river were Water Street, First. 
Second, Third, Fourth, Fifth, Sixth and Seventh streets. At right angles with these 
were Green, Montgomery. Herkimer, Washington, Jefferscm, Clinton and Hancock. 
The town was laid out in the form of a parallelogram, with a public square of live or six 
acres in the center, with jjublic l)uildings on the u]»pcr side lacing the river. It was a 
very pleasant lofality, Imt under (lie inlliiriic(- of LcKay the site was abandnncil jud 
tlie im.'sent village locnhd ni isij. J',,r many years a block-house stood on llu' 
abandonerl site. 

In 1H18. liowever, came an increase to the i)oi)nla1ion in ttic sha])c of 'several 
prominent French families, who became invohcd in l IhmIow iil.ill ol NmixiIcoh. .iinl ni.idc 
Capr- Vincent their i)laco of refuge. \Vc have no itrcsenl mcansof arriving al llic names 
of all till- French settlers of tliat period, but among them wereCJoimt h'eal and bis 
Hon-in-hiw General Rolland, Caniille Arnaud, Jermaux. Pigeon, and Louis I'engnet. 

They r/o say thai the project was mooted by these worliiv relainers of Ibe fallen 
(•((Hipieror tt) bring him hither, if possible, from St. Helena. I)nl t In v prolcihly coik hnlrd 
tliat it would have been too close to British territory. 

The new steamer .S7. Lairroicr makes two imiuhI irip 
Hay and ( 'ai)e Vincent, the former being tin? st.ulin- |jihiiI. 
The boat leaves the C'ape at once upon arrivjd ol Imil 
tniinH. Cro.ssing the l)road channel she passes clcsc nndi r iIm - 
Island, thu.s avoiding the dangerous Fcfather-lx-d Shoals, .ilioxc wlii 
roll angrily when the wind blows in freshlv from (lie i;ike. 



ij.i il \ bel ween A l('\;ilidria 



III 



I in;; .•nui ex ciiing 
iijiiw oil '.-ir-lrlon 
I I ill' w liile c.-ips 



19 

The sixteen miles voyage to Clayton gives the stranger but little evidence of the 
great summer population to be found below Clayton. There are but few cottages in 
view until the rounded promontory of Prospect Park is passed. The most notable 
exception is at '-Woodlands," where the large and costly villa owned by Mrs. T. N. 
Howard, of New York, stands upon the green hillside half smothered in its rich 
environment of verdure. 

Clayton is a compact and busy place. It presents its very worst front to the 
stranger coming from up the river, who will, if allowed to go away upon the hurryino- 
boat still influenced by his baleful first impressions, hardly commend Clayton as a 
summer resort. It would be money in Clayton's pocket if she would demolish a few 
of the rickety warehouses along her front and repair some of the ancient wharves, in 
short, if she would "dress up for company." If the stranger will only go ashore, 
however, and acquaint himself with the neat and shady streets, and try the fare at 
either of the excellent hotels — the Hubbard, Walton or West End — he will be led to 
think far better of the bright little town and its busy people. 

Clayton is the northern terminvis of the Utica & Black River Railroad, and through 
sleepers arrive here every morning from Niagara Falls — as already noted — and also 
later in the inorning from New York, which is only thirteen hours distant via Utica 
and Albany. 




S'l^ fel. * 6. R. Route 



The sky there blushes a rosy tint, 

AVhere rays of sunshine the morning glint: 

And the sheen of the moon, when evening bends. 

In brilliant lustre to earth descends. 

The stars then glitter with gayer beams 

When night lets her drapery fall in cb-earas, 

And the links that fetter our fancy break 

As we gaze on the wonders, but half awake. 




SLEEPING-CAR leaves New York from the Graud 
Central Depot ever}' evening except Saturday during 
the year, attached to the 9 p.m. express, and going- 
north and west via Albany, reaches Utica at 5 a.m., 
where it is attached to the 5.15 a.m. express tram 
upon the Utica and Black River Railroad. In the 
summer season it goes through to Clayton. The 
balance of the year it is taken to Lowville, the 
breakfast station. By taking this car, New Yorkers 
are brought through to the river in thirteen hours, 
or returned to New York in a little more than the 
same time. 

Passengers going north upon the '' West Shore " 
route are transferred across the city of Utica by coach in tune to connect with this 
early train. 

Tlie U. & B. R. route touches Trenton Falls which, by virtue of its great beauty, 
should be as well known as Watkins Glen or Ausable Chasm, but is but little visited, 
its present proprietor doing nothing to urge its claims upon the public, beyond the com- 
fortable entertainment of those who chance to stop, and for whose convenience a 
coach is usually on hand to meet trains, and a day devoted to the precipitous canon of 
Trenton creek will not be spent m vain. Alder Creek, Boonville and Port Leyden are 
points from which hunting and fronting parties usually enter the " big woods "' upon 
the western water-slied of the Adirondacks. 

At Lowville tlie passenger may safely count ii|i(im a niost cxcellfnl meal: the col- 
fee, that important factor of a breakfast, being miirminly noixi. 

Carthage, a large and active place, is tlie ]n>iiii di iuiulinn witli the Watcrtowii 
division of the road, wliich continues on to Sackdls I larlnii . w liidi is still a garrison 
town for United States troops. 

At Tlieresa Juiu-tion the (Jlayton liiaii<li ili\crl-^ ii\ n- l ra \ il rimn ihr main iini', 
wliicli continues on to Ogdensburg. 

Ul>on arrival of the train at (Mayton j):iHscng('rs will iiml I lie carriaucs nl llie 
several lofal hotels in waiting, and those Ijound down the ri\rr Icavi' al oner upon the 
Hteainer Maf/iKiril. The ferry-l)oat Piirifioi also leaves lor ( iaiiaii(i(|iie. tuakiiig the 
(Jrand Trunk |{ailway connection. 

Many Western readers, coming Eastward, wish to visit Watkins (ilcn as well as 
the Thou.san«l Islands. It will save time and travel for sucli persons if they will go 
ea.stward to (Jeneva riipon tlie Anbnrn Division of tlw N. Y. ('. & II. R. R. R.), and 
tlience by Hte;ini> T ii)piiii Scuiia Lake In W'alkins. 

From Watkins to the 'i'lir)nsan(l Islands the most din. i mnlc is by steamer to 
(ieneva, and thence by N. Y. ('. & H R. R. It. to Syracuse, nnl iimiIIi Io (!;ipe Vinct^nt 
fiver the Home. Watertown & f)g<leiisl)nrg \i. R.,orl<> I'liia ami ikmIIi ii|>iiii the Utica 
& Black Riv.r H. U. 

A pleasant round triji fi'im .New ^'oik reads \ i;i Watkins |o Niagara I'alls, and 




No. 1.— NEAR CAPE VINCENT AND KINGSTON. 



theuce eastward to Clayton uiion the R. W. & O. Steamboat Express, or via Toronto 
upon the Grand Trunk Railway, reaching the islands at Gananoque. 

Thousands to whom the beauties of Watkins Glen are familiar, are pleased to 
renew their experiences of past years, and the millions who are jot to see the mar- 
velous Glen are coming in increasing numbers each successive season. 

For the leisurely traveler from New York, one of the most charming of i^ossible 
trips northward is thr following: 

Via the West Shore to Kingston, upon the Hudson, thence westward over the 
Ulster & Delaware R. R., penetrating the southern and western Catskills to Stamford. 
The ride throughout is extremely picturesque. At Stamford excellent livery arrange- 
ments are made to take passengers to Cooperstown Junction, a pleasant ride, over good 
roads, of twenty -one miles. Teanas thus engaged connect with the train from Coop- 
erstown Junction to Otsego Lake, arriving at the Cooper House at 6.30 p. m. 

All who visit historic Cooperstown testify gladly to the beauty of its environment, 
charni of its traditions, so beautifully given the world by the gifted novelist, J. Feni- 
more Cooper, whose "Leather-Stocking" tales are largely located in the vicinity of 
this, his home. 

Pleasuring Americans, too, are not slow to appreciate the excellence of the famous 
Cooper House, now under the popular management of its owner, the veteran hotel 
man, Mr. S. E. Crittenden. 

Otsego Lake is the peer of any among the lake gems that are found in Central 
New York. Its waters are pui-e and deep, its tish gamey, and its glades cool and wild. 
Stop here a few days if you can, and then go up the lake upon one of the swift little 
steamers, taking a conveyance to Richfield Springs, another well-known lake-side 
resort of this region, which is connected with Utica by rail. Thence to the Islands is 
a direct run over the LT. & B. R. R. R., as herein set forth. 




xh 



11 V/';;.:'r-^(-— 



TH^ WMUKRD. 



Pr0M 




LAYTON TO 



Grandly flowing: grandly flowing! 

To the sea. 
Is a river, noble river. 

Dear to me. 
Here the native once his quiver 

Formed ol bark, 
And the Mohican his war-cry 

Raised at dark. 
Here the wild deer swam the waters, 

Terrified: 
And the red man from his bark-boat 

Pierced its side. 



6 



AY. 



)) 




A W N ibshevs iu tlie beginning of the 
througli travelers triji tlown the river, 
fcir liiiig licf'orc six o'clock a. ni. the 
I'ar-away whistle of the steamboat- 
express whicli h'ft Niagara Falls the 
ovcnijig before, is heaid away off toward Lafarge- 
\ illc. upon the Utica & Black River Railroad, and 
soon the irain of ''slee])ers" are pnlled iu close 
alongsiilc 111 IIk' wailing A'o//ie.sa//, and shortly the 
siilnlucd niar of escaping steam ceases, a ^hoii 
M-rcniptory signal is given at tlie wliistlc, and the 
stately craft is oil', heading away dinclly lir 
h'ouiid Island, the first stoi)ping-i)oint. Tlie Main 
ail of ]»assengers takes full possessimi <A' I he r- 



>my 
cabin, stowing tlicir inii>c<liMicnta in tlir mIMc <• ,,l' the 
baggage-maHter. ami arc now ready to l.die in the exlula- 
ratioii of the braeinu' niorning at iiioiplicic. .nid m.iki 
/' their nnnd^ wh.'t lier- <ii no the \:iuiileil '1 Im iii--:ind Inlands ;ii-i 

lliiil tiicy are clainie.l to lie. 

Now is the time Id look (i\ er \<iiii- nla|l^ .ind i-ead xour truide. 
First, let it Ite understood that .dl mI the himl \<ni <:in 
left is made up of islan<ls, one overlapping tiie othei idon^ llu <li>tanee until they 



up 

all 



to Die 




c^LVlv^L^ \sv\'sq — 3VJVi\vAt"R wowt ov ur. cvaks. g. twtw 



24 

give the impression of being continuous coast line. Not so : they are threaded by 
many devious and charming channels. 

The roimded promontory astern, just above Clayton, upon the mainland, is 
Prospect Park, u-hieh will no doubt, some day be well dotted with summer bouses. 
The cottage upon Calumet Island, immediately opposite Clayton, is that of Mr. Chas. 
G. Emery of New York City, and above it is ex-Lieut. -Governor Alvord's place. 

As Round Island is approached the graceful proportions of the large hotel in its 
centi-e is revealed through interstices in the dense foliage along its shores, and be- 
ginning with ■• Ethelridge." the cozy property of Dr. Geo. D. Whedon. of Syracuse, 
there is a charming succession of pretty, brightly-painted cottages all along the cliff- 




like frnntage of 
wha rf is niid- 
i.sland, protected 
sault.s of storms 
iKlaiid, whifli is 
in front. Rouik 
favorite pf>int 
wisely defer 
treal until they 
islan<l region. It 
s e v>- h (• r f . 
t h e observant 
voyaged <J o w n 
former years 
a note to the ef- 
are done tipon 



according to the deinaiid.H of the fastidioiiH Anieriran travel 

go to Hhow the intention upon the jmrt of the management to make tiiiis route worthy 



Ihc ishiiid. Tlir 
\\;iy down tiie 

I ro III the a s- 
liittle Ivcuud 

II 111 lost directly 
M;iiul I 'ark is a 
\\ il li inmiy will) 
lliriilript.iMMii- 

i:i \ (■ s (• !■ 11 1 he 
i-riillyil(-(iilic 
AWiMil I 111-- I iiii 
I r.i \ rliT \\ 111 1 has 
Ihc river ill 
will Iki \ (' II lai !<' 
led llial Ihings 
I lie I: n I h ( say 
These an- straws which 



25 

of high oommendatiou : for instance, you will discover that coffee is ready in the 
dining-room which is on the upper deck in the roomy "after" portion of the cabin. 
Better take a cup just after leaving Round Island, as breakfast can be deferred to 
advantage until after " the Bay" is passed. Then hasten upon deck or you will miss 
the fine view of Thousand Island Park and the clustered islands in its vicinity. 




Here traveleis land and others take 

their places. The Rothesay rounds 

iway; curving outside of the buoy 

and enters the narrow precincts of 

the American Channel, which, for 

some miles, separates Wellsley Island 

fiom the mainland. The old and new 

lights upon Rock Island are upon the 

__^ light. Cottages are here, there and 

e\ ery where. 

By reference to the excellent colored map herein. 

the reader will be able to locate each notable cottage in 

the American Channel in passing down. 

Just below the Wellsley House, which will be ob- 
served on Wellsley Island shortly after leaving Thous- 
and Island Park, and which is almost opposite the light-house, are 
"Waving Branches," "Bonnie Eyrie" and several other brightly- 
'':} painted little homes. Frederick Island and the Isle of Pines to the 

right are also occupied. "Jolly Oaks," on the left, is a quartette 
/ of white cottages set amid the trees and looking jolly enough to 

tempt any passer-by ashore. 

An ornate pavilion occupies a small rock in the stream just here, and another is 
seen upon a headland half a mile below. 

Glenwood Heights is upon the mainland, and just below the wide waters of Swan 
Bay is Central Park, with its handsome " Cottage Hotel" and half-dozen villas among 
the trees. 

"Point Vivian," a considerable community of cottagers, is also u^son the mainland, 
and immediately opposite is Island Royal, crowned by a fine cottage. This is the 
property of Mr. Royal H. Deane, of New York. From the elevated porch of this cozy 



26 



establishment a view unsuri^assed iipou the channel may be enjoyed. Mr. Deane and 
his family have long been summei" residents npon the river. 

At the lower end of Densmore Bay. which indents Wellsley Island at this point. 
are the "Seven Isles." a most romantic spot, which one must needs explore with a row 
boat to discover its hidden charms. 

•• Bella Vista," a large and costly place, is now noted upon the right, distinguishable 
by its square tower and ultra nrndern st^'le of architecture. It is owned by M. J. 
Bosworth. a Milwaidiee gentleman of wealth and artistic taste, now a resident of 
Newport, R. I. 

Perched upon the cap of a clitf stands the viHa of Hon. D. C. Labott, of New 
Orleans, known as •'Louisiana Point." 

The tall tower looming above the trees of a mid-stream island ahead, is the large 
villa upon Comfort Island. o-«Tied by Mr. A. C. Clark, of Chicago. 

A small white cottage upon a rocky and shadeless ishiud is chiefly noted as 
'' Warner's." from the remarkable success of the owner in the manufacture and sale of 
certain medical specifics. 

• • Wau-Winet " stands just below Clark's, and beyond this the Devil's Oven looms up. 
the hitter the property of Mr. Henry R. Heath the owner of Nobby Island. With 
commendable taste and public spirit, this gentleman has caused to be built for the 
convenience of visitors a good landing-place, and walk excavated in the solid rock of 
the precipitous eastern side. This path leads to an ornate rustic pavilion, which 
crowns the higliest point of the islet and is one of the most effective adornments of 
this portion of the river. 

The Devil's Oven owes its somewhat uncomfortable title to a small cave at its 
lower end sufficiently deep to quite conceal an ordinary skiff. 

The place is not, as one might suppose from its name, a superheated bakehouse, 
devoted to the cremation of unlucky sinners, but upon the contrary, is one t)f the 
most charming places along the channel in which to while away a breezy midsummer 
hour or so. 

Within pistol shot of this rock is 
one owned and occupied by the Rev. 
Geo. Rockwell, who has made the 
desert rock which he found here many 
years ago to "blossom like the rose.'' 

To the left, almost hidden by the 
plentiful verdure, is the old Pullman 
cottage, one of the fii-st erected upmi 
the river. It has been unnfrnpifd f.u- 






GUUVStS OV UOBBX \SVKUt,— 3UWUtR HOUSt OV WR. H. R. HtKTH. 



28 

several seasons. In former years it was the scene of many notable and festive gather- 
ings, the chief of wliich, probably, was the/. Ye given in honor of General U. S. Grant 
during the term of his Presidency. 

Within easy hail down stream is Xobbj- Island. It hides modestly behind F iendly 
Island, which is unoccupied. There it is. the one from which is projected a handsome, 
white dock, with ornate railing, miniature imvilion, and a sloping bridg<' leading thereto. 

Nobby Island is owned and occupied by Mr. Heniy R. Heath of Brooklyn. The 
small cottage upon the rocky crown of the island is tlie pioneer summer home of the 
■• Bay," having been built by its present owner in '71, in the confident belief that the 
island region would some day become a famous resort for cottagers. 

Islands now worth thousands of dollars were then sold for from five to ten dol- 
lars each, and the purchaser of one or more was in imminent danger of gaining an 
uni^leasant reputation for iinheard of extravagance. 

Nobby Island comprises about two and a half acres. A miniature valley, full of 
dancing lights and shadows upon a sunny day, reaches across the head of the island. 
Mr. Heatli has just completed a new and roomy cottage, and doubtless in "Sleepy 
Hollow " he will court successfully a long continuance of the comfort, and dispense 
in years to come, the same kindly hospitality for which Nobby Island is famed. 

To the west of Nobby stands Welcome Island, owned by Jlr. S. G. Pope, of Ogdeus- 
burg. A pretty cottage stands in its centre, wlucli is finished within in hard-woods, with 
fine artistic effect — a labor of love with its owner, who. in the pursuit of his occupation 
as a builder, has constructed many of the most costly properties upon the river. 

A notable jjroperty jjassed by the steamer just before reaching the "Bay." and the 
last in the channel, is that of Mr. Albert B. Pullman of Chicago, known as Cherry Island. 

Cleveland Point, upon the mainland just west of the " Bay," has been laid out by 
Mr. J. M. Curtis of Cleveland, into buildmg lots, and will soon develop into an 
attractive " park." 

A prominent cottage improvement wliich has been made within the jiast year is 
seen upon ]\Iaud Island, of which we present a full-page illustration. This handsome 
cottage was built last season by R. A. Livingston, Esq., of New York, who occu^iies it 
for the first time this season, and has re-christened his place "Linlithgow Island." 

As the Rotliesaij rounds up to her dock at Alexandria Bay. the wealth and variety 
of picturesque surrounding, in which thenatiu-al and artificial are so hapjiily blended, 
almost bewilder the new comer, Avhose imagination must he vivid indeed if he has 
conjured from the recessess of expectation anything half so beautiful. 

The huge and shapely hotels loom up close beside the water, and sable represent- 
atives of ea'-h lav in wait f(jr the coining tourist iiixm the wharf. No omnibuses here. 




5 OF THE ST. L 



United States Surveys.'} 



UBLICATION DePARTM 

FOR 

La%vt-ence Summer Li fey 
E OF ONTARIO. 




24- \^ 
^^ ^'»/^Urd-^^ 25 



26 




M E S 



Bv York. 
Alvord. 
iv York, 
inel. 
V York. 
w York. 
s, N. Y. 

. Y. 
. Y. 
. Y. 
. Y. 



g. Jolly Oaks. 



POINTS I N D 



Prt 

N.l 
Jolj' 
He 

10. Island Royal 

11. Seven Isles 

12. Point Vivian ; Rezot 

Jones, William Cooj 

13. Bella Vista Lodge.. 

14. Comfort Island 

15. Warner Island. 

16. Cherry Island 



THOUSAND ISLANDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. 




represents the national boundary 1 
Through and local 
Daily riMilc- of llir- "Islaml Wa 



.... C. E. Hill, Chicago. 

II. R. Heath, New York. 

...S. G. Pope, OddensburK. 

R. A. I-iviiiRston, New York. 

Holland EMatc. 

H. G. I.c Come, Philadelphia. 

K. .\athony. New York. 

Packer Estate. 



r" 



0UND ^SLAND PaRK. 



And oft we launch our little boat, 
And sweetly, quietly we float 

Toward the gates of morn ; 
Away from city, smoke, and sin, 
Unto the solitude wherein 

The happy stream is born. 



OUND ISLAND, occupied as Round 
Islaud Park, is located in the centre 
of the American Channel, thirty miles 
from Lake Ontario, being one and 
one-half miles below Clayton, N. Y., 
twenty miles below Cape Vincent, 
eight miles above Alexandria 
Bay, and forty-two miles above 
Ogdensburg. It is more in the shape 
of a pickerel than a circle, its length 
being one mile, and its width varying 
from 800 to 1,200 feet. It lies one- 
fourth of a mile from the American 
shore, seven miles from the Canadian 
shore, and extends along the river 
southwest and northwest, its irregu- 
lar coast gives it from any approach 
the appearance of rotundity, suflS.- 
ciently so to make its name appro- 
]3riate, and to afford safe and quiet harbors from 
any wind. 

One hundred and fifty acres of land, beauti- 
, • fully diversified by sun and shade are contained in 
the island, every j)ortion of which has some special 
attraction. The coast toward the main shore has its thick 
covering of wood and its gradual elevation from the water's 
edge ; the opposite coast, its rocky boldness and magnificent 
views ; and the interior, its undulating and crowning 
surface covered with lawns, avenues, cottages and public 
buildings. 

The entire island is under the management of "The 
Round Island Park" Company, a stock company w^th a capital of |50,000. The hotel, 
store, pavilion, sale of lots, sanitary measures, beautifying and improving, are imme- 
diately controlled and personally directed by members of this company who are 
appointed for the purpose. The following ai-e the names of the officers, viz.: John G. 
Harbottle, President ; Hugh C. Townley. Vice President ; A. E. Sawyer, Secretary ; 
Geo. L. Davis, Treasui-er and Manager. 

Three years ago the writer visited Round Island for the first time, while en route 
upon a mid-summer journey undertaken in the hope of recovery from the combined 
efforts of malaria and hay-fever, which twin evils had been hammering away for some 
months at a constitution somewhat strained by persistent over-work. 

Round Island, vaguely understood to be a denominational resort, was considered 
but a passing incident of a tour. But it came to pass that the days passed into weeks 
aod the weeks into quite a month, before we {i. e., self and family) finally bade our 
c<.i tage acquaintances adieu and returned to the city. How the world moves in a single 




I'H 



fl 




^^i:^^i-<:^^ i 



^^^ \^ 



'.'i'u \■i^.^n J yux-*.. 



moon ! Within tliat time we had discovered Round Island, become property owners^ 
(or more strictly speaking, lessees) to the extent of a leaf -strewn bit of rock and a slop-' 
ing foreground of turf, with an unlimited " water privilege," and as pretty a glimpse 
of the broad river as the heart could wish. This was all very well as an investment, 
for lots at Eound Island Park were sure to appreciate in value with pleasing raj^idity. 
But we did not stop at this, for the fever was upon us, and within the airy confines of 
our tent a cottage was built, on paper. Before we left, at the end of one mouth, a 
builder had the plans and we had accepted his figures. 

Early in June following ('82), our cottage on paper had become a wooden and glass 
reality. The last stray painter was driven fi'om the scene, and we took possession. 

While the builders had worked through the cold months, we had found great 
diversion in spare hours in planning and 
selecting the details of interior fuinishing. 

People who bu^ houses outiight, tur- 
niture and all. don't know how much 
pleasure they aie thro\\mg away. The 




je of our new home was- 
s t r e w 11 w 1 1 h packing cases ; 
giadually e\ei\thmg found its- 
place, and even the furniture 
w hicJi had been straying upon 
lialf-a-dozen steamboats, up and 
down the ii\ei. was finally col- 
letted, a head-boaid and a few 
slats, or a chau- or so, at a time,, 
and we sat down to contemplate- 
the result. It was small but cozy, with biggest room 
out of doors, on the porch, as it should be with 
summer homes. 
Two summers of life at "Shady Ledge" have fully demonstrated the wisdom 
or good luck, if you will, of the investment. It brought immunity from illness, a 
choice circle of new acquaintances and a capital of reserve strength with which to tide 
over the long Northern winter. It has, too, given a new- zest to hfe in recalling, 
through the w-inter, the pleasures past, and anticipating their repetition in the sum- 
mer to come. 

With this prelude, the writer is now ready to record his well-rooted belief that 
there is actually no other region of resort in America combining so many attractive 



elements in summer time as the grand archipelago called the Thousand Islands : and 
drawing the line still closer, that among the vast group there is no other having as 
plentiful attractions, all points considered, as Round Island Park. 

Ten years or more of almost constant journalistic travel has familiarized the writer 
with nearly every resort in the land, both North and South, and it was witli the vision 
of lovely nooks by sea-shore and moimtain before him that Round Island Avas finally 
chosen for a permanent summer home. And here are a few of the reasons : 

Cottage building is cheaii. A house costing tliirty-five hundred dollars ujion the 
New England coast, can be built here for two thousand. 

Food is cheap. At the end of the season it was found that after all expenses, in- 
cluding railway fares, had been counted, the outlay was not greater than that of re- 
maining in the city. In this, however, no allowance is made for interest upon 
investment : it being considered that this would be more than met by the increase of 
values incident to a growing resort. 

Marketing is convenient. All things essential, meats, ice, milk and groceries. &c., 
Avere delivered, with but little cause for fault finding," at our doors. 

The open waters between the islands afford safe areas for sailing, because the 
winds are not filled with treacherous flaws. Smooth water for rowing and fishing can be 
found in a few moments under the lee of the island in any weather. The water is 
piu'e and transparent, and the air dry — so dry, in fact, that for at least two months 
in midsummer there is no perceptible dew. The veriest invalid may enjoy the ham- 
mock or boating by moonlight with inipimity. 

There are now neaidy fifty cottages upon the island, many of them being tasty 
and ornate. A fine example these island homes is seen in the engraving upon the 
opposite page, representing the new cottage of James Eaton, Esq., of Utica, wliich 
is a conspicuous feature upon the main channel just above the steamboat wharf. 

Although the Park is nominally sectarian in its origin, there is an entire absence 
•of those ciieaj) camp-meeting attribut-^s which are found at manj' denominational re- 
sorts in other portions of the land. The cottagers, as well as the guests at the hotel, 
represent a wide range in shades of religious belief. 

The delightful evening life of midsummer here — that part of the day between six 
o'clock, and — yes, I will record it — midnight, is not to be ignored. It is, indeed, 
the social quarter of the day. After the steady cooling breeze wliich sweeps down 
among the islands from the broad bosom of Ontario has been hushed, a great calm 
comes down like a blessing, restful to the weary nerves and inii)ressive in the majesty 
of its conij)leteness. 

There are no two sunsets just alike at Round Island. Each day brings some special 
beauty. The going down (jf the sun. as it sinks upon the green Canadian hills, realizes 
the finest phenomenon in nature, save only that of light itself. Whether the declining 
orb drajjcs himself with liie i)urple and gold of a royal couch, or sinks amid the tears 
and sackcloth betokening a coming storm, he is always grand in his leave-taking. 
Men in all ages have contemplated this phenomenon with ;nve and admiration — even 
to adoration. David, the psalmist, chants : 

'' They also that dwell in the uttermost jiarts are afraid at tliy tokens : 
Thou makest the outgoings of the mornings and evenings to rejoice.'' 

Eventide is the grand, everv-day, free laiiilsc;ii)e gallery ol the world. l'"aeli 
diurnal exhil)ition closes witli a new picture, a droi)-curtaiii In lln' ri;il :ind (leeting 
pr*f;ent. Just as the rdustered prisms of the kaleidoscope (■.m immi- n |irddnce (he 
design once disturbed, so no sunset once faded will ever ii.i\r ils cwimlc i-|i;ir(. The 
gradual transition from day to dusk, ami dusk to ni^lil. i^ lound nowhere nmic cli.irni- 
ing and perfect than among these, our islands. Then it is that the far-aw.iy ii(i(inii);j; 
of the coming steamer's ])addles m!iy be iieard far down the Anicricnn ( hiinm I. \i>u^ 
before her twinkling lights pffcp out beyond the light-house, 'rinn iIm nn ii\ hmghtcr 
of lia|)py crews, that floats thn)Ugh the midst of I he nullow sunset tones. ( <Jines to us 
who loiter iiesido the mossy banks. Then (lie bi;; luill-fi-og which has kept us awake 
Jialf the nights in .June still mocks us with his conqilaining aliout ( he n.ld in his lie.id, 
and sweet farm-sounds reach UH from the weather-beaten houses upon I he mainland. 



33 

Nearer and closer yet comes the Rothesay, and jtist as the hoarse scream of her 

warning stirs up a legion of echoes, a rocket mounts into the sky, and for a brief second 

_ — ,- . the big hotel stands out like a cameo 

,- ._ _ _r~ ■ _ ■ against the blackness of the eastern. 

■'"■'" ■ ■ -< 5 - nightfall. It is a lively scene upon the 

wharf when the steamer comes in. She 

^ brings a troup of tourists who want 

supper, and want it in a hurry. The air 

up here is enough to make a man turn 

cannibal. The steamer also brings tlie 

band, a quartette of skillful musicians, 

and an hour later it is likely they are 

rasping away upon " lieeL 

md toe or some other terp- 

SK hoi e 1 n temptation, for 

lilt b( uefit of guests and 

cottageis alike. Sometimes 

1 notable is trapped for the 

ev( ning and we have a 

Ice till e. oi, again, a concert,. 

oi sleight - of - hand 

seance fills in the 

(\ening. In the 

me mtime. if it is 

moon-light, you may 

be sure all the boats, 

" a score or more, have 




left the landing-stage. What a 
place for a moonlight row! Wliat 
enchanted islets to thread 
between, if one but knows the 
vs^ay ! 

In midsummer there are veri- 
tably but five hours of darkness -* -^ 
U130U the St. Lawrence. At ten sf- -^ ' 
o'clock the sunset yet stains the i " '" i 
western sky ; at soon after three j 
there are manifest tokens of the j 
coming of another day. I 

In September, when the even- ' i' \\'i~, 

ings were long, the fortunates , , , 

who still lingered among the ; i, 

scenes of the summer's merri- : i " 

nient made camp-fires, and, in 

cozy circles upon the green sward, beneath the splendid old trees, joined in song and 
story, until the flickering embers warned them of the lateness of the hour. 

If this hasty resume of a summer at Round Island shall bring to our circle some 
others to whom the St. Lawrence is yet a stranger, then these impressions of a cot- 
tager's experience will not have been wi-itten in vain. 



34 



ROUND ISLAND PARK COTTAGE DIRECTORY. 




1. JAMES EATON, 

2. L. T. & A. E. SA'U^'ER, 

3. Mrs. J. H. LUCAS, - 

4. N. H. BURHANS. - 

5. ADAMS CENTRE COR. BAND 

6. H. S. BARBOUR. 

7. ANTHONY LAMB, 

8. GUSTAVU.S COOK. - 

9. RUGG & LAIDLAW, - 

10. D. H. DECKER, - 

11. J. G. HARBOTTLE, - 
1-i. TIXCENT LARKINS, 

13. G. N. HARRIS. - 

14. JOHN M. BENNETT, 

15. Rev. N. H. BELL, 

10. L. BI. S. HAYNES, ) 

GEO. N. CRANDALL, >' " 
i; F. M. METCALF, . 

18 ABM. FAIRNIE, - 

19 JAS. S. SQUIRES, 

.20 HARVEY THOMPSON, - 
31 Dr. F. H. STEPHENSON, - 

22 Dr. GEO. D. WHEADON, - 

23 J. H. CHILDS, 

24 GEO. "W. HAMMOND, 

25 C. S. BALL, ... - 
2(5 GEO. L. DAVIS, - 

27 JOHN S. EDWARDS, - 
2« MARY C. GOULD, - 

29 JAMES S. WARD, - 

30 MARY A. GOOD ALL, 

31 Mrs. C. L. H.VMILTON, 

32 FRANK H. TAYL(m, 

33 EDGAR L. TRAVER, - 

34 C. W. NIMS, - - - - 
;« Rev. W. H. SLOAN, 

80 THOS. C. PARKER. - 

37 C. W. NIMS, - - - - 

38 C. H. ROSE, 

39 Mrs. FLORFN'CK BULLOCH, 
in Mrs. RUIII ACKERMAN, - 
II C. K. BKST. 

I.' T. B. CL(JYKS. 

43 ESTIIKH A. I'KKINE. 



Utica, N. Y. 
Watertown, N. Y 
Hamilton, N. Y. 
Syracuse. N. Y. 
.Adams Centre, N. Y. 
Watertown, N. Y. 
Syracuse, N. Y. 
WatertOT\Ti, N. Y. 
Gouverneur, N. Y. 
Syracuse, N. Y. 
Watertowu, N. Y. 
Clayton. N. Y. 
Syracuse, N. Y. 
Clayton, N. Y. 
Nunda, N. Y. 

Binfrhampton, N. Y. 

Westmoreland, N. Y. 
Syi'acuse, N. Y, 
Cortland, N. Y. 
Norwich, N. Y. 
Syracuse. N. Y. 
Syracuse, N. Y. 
Syracuse, N. Y. 
Watertown, N. Y. 
Syracuse, N. Y. 
Watertown, N. Y. 
Carthage, N. Y. 
Orleans, N. Y. 
Carthage, N. Y. 
Watertowu, N. Y. 
New York City. 
Pliiladcli)liia, Pa. 
Red Hook, N. Y. 
Cai>e Vincent, N. Y. 
Albion, N. Y. 
^Vntertown, N. Y. 
Cape Vincent, N. Y. 
Uticn, N. Y. 
Fisher's Land'g.N.Y. 
Three-mile Bay, N.Y. 



r;MHOUSAND MSLAND 



3 



ARK. 



■ Shall we forget the friends wo met 

And loved upon the river-— 
Its songs and dreams and chan,c;ing gleams? 

No never, and no never; 
We shall forget them never, 

We can forget them never." 



H E Blethodist organization known as the Thousand 
Island Park Association, began its operations in 1875 by 
the purchase of a large territory at the head of Wells- 
ley Island, aggregating one thousand acres. A portion 
of this was at once laid off into avenues and public 
reservations, the former being extended from time to 
time until a large proportion is now available for build- 
ing purposes. 
Thousand Island Park now stands, with its three hundred tasty cottages, as the 
most extensive of the denominational resorts upon the river. 

The new hotel, erected last season, is a large and costly structure, which must aid 
gi'eatly in advancing the interests of the Park. A broad veranda, sixteen feet wide, 
extends around the building upon three sides ; above this are lesser balconies for the 
second and third floors. The shapely tower, 150 feet in height, affords a grand view of 




;«?«^T 




TWOUSNHO \SV^HQ PKa^ WOltV. 



the islands and channels which surround the Park. Its interior furnishing is excellent 
and fare first-class, the manager being a well-known hotel man of many years' 
experience. Rates are graded according to location of room, transient rates being 
.$2.00. S3.00 and §4.00 per day. There is a discount of fifty cents per day upon the two 
higher rates when two persons occupy one room. 

As at Chautauqua, a regular programme of the season's exercises is announced. For 
the present summer it will be as follows : 

Dedication of Tabernacle. Sunday July 13. 1884. 

Evangelistic Meetings, July 14-'24. — Rev, D. W. Thurston, Leader. 

Sunday-school Parliament, July 23-August 3. — Rev. J. L. Hurlbut, D.D., Conductor, 

National Temperance Society Meeting, August 5-10.— Rev, D. C. Babcock, Secre- 
tary Society, Leader. 

]iliss Alice "Waltz, of Brooklyn. N. Y., will give a Series of Popular Concerts and 
Readings, August 11-15. 

A Coiu'se of ten Popular Lectures, August 19-31. 

The new Tabernacle, which will be dedicated as annoimced above, is a vast 
permanent structure, which will replace the large tent used in former years, and 
effectually protect audiences from wind and rain during services or entertainments. 
It is 100x140 feet in size and will seat 3,500 persons. 

The officers and trustees are, at present, as follows : 

Rev. M. D, KINNEY. A.M.. President. 
Frederick Gates, 1st Vice-Pres"t. John R. Pawling, Ass't-Treasurer. 
Geo, C. Sawyer, 2d Vice-Pres"t, Frederick A. Kinney, Secretary. 
Mannister Worts, Treasurer. Edw^uid B. Calkins, Sup"t. 

R. P. Grant. A. Gurnee. A. C. Middleton. 

All steamers in going up or down the river stop at the wharf of Tliousand Island 
Park. 

There is much that appeals to the visitor's sense of the picturesque at Thousand 
Island Park. 

The Vjeautiful avenue along its water front giA-es far-reaching views of the floAving 
river upon one hand, and leafy vistas along the side avenues which lead into the heart 
of the Park domain. 

Tliis is a truly international resort, for many Canadian families come here 
annually and fraternize with their American cousins, united in the cordial bond of 
religious felhjvvsliip. 

Tlie many improvements and large number of new cottages in process of erection 
tills season, promise well for the future prosperity of the enterprise. 




o^J 






d 


*T 


-0 

■XI 




f 


o 

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X 




.; 



.^^ 






No. 3.— FROM ALEXANDRIA BAY TO CHRISLER'S ISLAND. 



R0UND 



LEXANDRIA 



AY. 



'Neath the lee of youder island, 
"VTavelets now have ceased their dancing 

Come away and drift with me, 

Come out there and float with me : 
Or, wait imtil the storm's advancing, 

Then aboard and speed with me. 



T is a mooted question if the islands 
which dot the broadened river in front 
of. Alexandria Bay look their prettiest 
at sunrise or eventide. However this 
mig-ht be decided, it is certain that far 
the greater number of tourists, to whom, 
as a rule, early rising seems an abomina- 
tion, ai-e likely to view them as the sun 

. --^pi,-;;j:^::-5lil=~^ :^— 1_— '-T^''=°=^ ■ declines behind the chaj)el toTver upon 

" -~'-'^-=^ "Westminster Hill. It is then that the 

returning skiffs, coming in from among the rocky hiding places where they have 
trolled through the day, are seen in little silhouettes upon the silvery sheen of the 
flowing waters. Then the busy little steam yachts — and they are legion — go and come, 
cross and recross each other's pathways, leaving a phosphorescent trail of dancing 
wavelets in theii' wake. Far away the camp-fires begin to twinkle out of the mellow 
pu pie gloom, and the merry sounds of human occupancy float out from the island homes. 
It is an hour of repose which even the wordy wrangling on the dock concerninsr the 








BQHM\t c^s^vt 



'• catches " of the day can scarce disturb: but wait, a finer thing is yet to come. Take 
supper and come oiU half an hour later. Now. displayed against the black masses where 
the islands stand, beneath the lingering stain of the sunset, are a score of devices. 



39 

wrought in twinkling lamps; here an anchor, there a star, a harp or initial letter. Far 
up towards the cap of the lofty tower upon the Thousand Island House glows the white 
heat of an electric lamp, and along every cornice through the garden below and over 
among the I'ock and verdure of the illuminated Crossmon House, a thousand lamps and 
torches dance in the eddying night-wind, each tiny flame caught up and reflected on 
every riflle of the deep black stream; and as we gaze and admire, the night is pierced 
by the swift flight of rockets, which mount into the dome of heaven and, shattering 
there, scatter parti colored stars far out upon the silent tide. 

The largest and most costly, if not the most picturesque, of the many hundreds of 
cottages along the river are found in the vicinity of Alexandria Bay, many of them 
being within an easy row of the dock. The passing voyager, who only looks at these 
places from the steamer's deck, can have but slight idea of the loving care, even 
extravagant outlay, lavished upon many of them. 

One of the best-known properties in the vicinity is Bonnie Castle, the property 
and favorite home of the late Dr. J. G. Holland, whose attachment for the place and 
philanthropic efforts to improve the condition of those around him are recognized by 
every one who was conversant with his life upon the river. Bonnie Castle will be 
occupied this season, it is said, for the first time by strangers. 

Isie Imperial, upon which a Philadelphia lady has built a handsome Queen Anne 
cottage, is conspicuous from its position, immediately opposite the Bay. 

The large villa of Judge Donahue, of Brooklyn, and Sport Island, where the Packer 
brothers — both recently deceased — of the Lehigh Valley, spent their summers, will be 
pointed out by any one you may ask. 

Ilaydens, upon "Fairyland," is also a notable cottage: and so, too, is Judge 
Spencer's " Manhattan.'" 




■%/?/ "/Y^rauerit& " 



Upon the main shore, just opposite the Sunken Rock Lighthouse, and about half a 
mile below the Crossmon House, is Point Marguerite, the cottage place of Mr. Edward 
Anthony, of the well-known photographic supply house in New York City. 

Summerland is chiefly occupied by a colony of Rochesterians. 

Over beyond the islands which shut out the western horizon, when looking from 
the Bay, is Westminster Park, which occupies an extensive domain upon the lower 
end of Wellsley Island. This park, like others upon the river, is under denominational 







UHVnwGO'W 



41 

in:flTieDC--e. being of PresTarterian bias. The hrAeL kiio"w-n as tbe 'Westm.mster, is 
composed of two roomy btdldiTigs. and is ac-c^i/tably managed by ifessrs. Harrington 
Bros.- of Utica. 

Access by steamer takes the visiTor aro"and tbe long, attenuated jxjint and into 
Pojjlar Bay. close nxxin tlie national botmdary line. 

In PoTjlar Bay one finds a commodious dock, and a semicircle of bri^t and jiretty 
homes. 

Jnsr here is the entrance to the -wierd Lake of tlie Island, a large x>ond hidden 
away in tbe midst of Wellsley Island, to which ac<;-es5 is h.ad throxigh a narrow and 
precijjitoTis channel. This pond or lake is two miles in length and nearly a mile in 
width. 

A "feature "of tiie Thousand Islands is Capt. Tisgars morning and afternoon 
forty-mile escursions upon the fast steamer I^lartd Wanderer. So one spending a day 
or so among these sceiaes should fail to take this trip. It is, indeed, the only inex- 
pensive way of gaining an adequate idea of the extent and wildness ox the archipelago. 




The route lea.ds up the American Charm eL touching at Thousand Island Park, 
connecting there with the Farringion. ot '^<jxni^ Island and Clayton, 

Then she frmrtjxmsis thiough the rjemrtifal channel lea-ding to Eel Bay and- lounding- 
the foot of G-rindstone Island, goes on to Gananoque through a maze of wooded islands. 
At this Canadian town a stop of nearly an hour is made and passengers are taken from, 
the new branch of the Grand Trunk Eailway. The return trip to the " Bay ~ is noade 
down the Canadian Channel and through the narrow and crooked "Tiddlers ELbow," 
touching at "vTesOninster Park. 

Gananoqpie is a plea^sntiyloeatedplace. ha"ringa ~ery considemblemantjfacturing 
imporianBe- Many 5ne stores are ranged along its principal husiness street. Since 
the reeent completion ox the "branch railway, leading from the depot on the Grand 
Tnmk Eailway to the wharf, a distance of about three miles, this point has l^ecome a 
fe— orite place to take the steamer for ih-e -rarious island resorts. The stsamex 



43 

Puritan makes several trips daily thence to Clayton, connecting with trains to and 
from New York. 

The International Hotel is a well-kept and roomy house within two minutes' walk 
of the river, which the tourist who has strayed upon the Canadian side Of the river 
will find a pleasant stopping-place. 

Another institution of the " Bay" is Messrs. Cornwall Brothers' large general store, 
where the islanders and campers get their supplies. In addition to their heavy business 
as store-keepers, the firm are engaged in the general ticket business, and will at all 
times answer the thousand and one inquiries of strangers with the utmost courtesy. 

Maclntyre's Centennial Hall, well stocked with a great variety of photos of island 
scenery, from the excellent negatives made by the veteran himself, will be found 
worth a visit. 

Perhaps a special word should be said regarding the two great hotels which front 
the river, although they are so well known as to hardly require introduction to any 
experienced traveler. 

The modern Crossmon House stands upon the site of the original hotel of the same 
name, a small, plain house, the first upon the river to entertain fishing parties. The 
elder Crossmon, still hale and hearty, lives to advise and assist his son. Mr. Chas. W. 
Crossmon, now the active manager, in the successful conduct of the present elegant 
and popular establishment. Mr. Chas. W. Crossmon wall be found by all who come 
under his roof an afiiable and tireless gentleman. A large proportion of the choice 
suites of apartments at this house are retained from year to year by the numerous 
regu^lar patrons of the house. 

Old frequenters of the Bay in the days of the original Crossmon House will recall 
the names of many strong-armed boatmen now "gone over to the silent majority." 
These were the first generation of the men who did more than many others to con- 
tribute to the pleasure of the summer visitor. There was Charles Griffen, whose sons 
Steve, Sidney and Aleck, are active among the present force of oarsmen. There are 
also four grandsons of the pioneer, all sons of Steve, engaged in the same occupation. 
John Hoadley, who is also gone, left his two sons, Thomas and John, to pull the ash 
over the same waters. Alfred Comstock was another of the pioneers ; his brother 
Thomas still lives at the Bay, and his three sons, George. Thomas and Fred, are still 
rowing. Capt. Andrew Duclon and his brother, Daniel Duclou, follow their father's 
calling, and John Doran left two sturdy sons, Henry and Louis, to guide the stranger 
among the isles. Hiram Cham and David Walton will be remembered. Old Ned Pat- 
terson still pulls his blade, but feebly, and so, too, does Wilson Root. John and Andrew 
Thomson are also " old timers ;" the former has retired to his farm while the latter is 
sailing a yacht. Harry French "'still lives" to drag the spoon. Harry Westcott runs 
the steamer " Sport," and Peleg Wheeler keeps his weather eye open for a "'job." 

In reviewing these well-known names of old fishermen, one is struck with the fact 
that the uneasy spirit of migration has not tempted the St. Lawrence people away 
from their beloved river to any extent, either in the first or second generation. A 
man who has once learned the surpassing advantages of life along this grand old 
stream can hardly feel content, even with the prospect of greater earnings, to long 
forsake its shores. 

The Thousand Island House, which has been managed for a dozen years by its 
builder, Mr. O. G. Staples, now of Willard's, Washington, was sold by him at the 
commencement of the season of '83 to several gentlemen, of whom Mr. R. H. Southgate 
is one, and it is now included in the latter gentleman's extensive chain of great 
summer hotels. Under its trained metropolitan management the house has greatly 
grown in favor with the public, and is generally a very hvely centre of transient travel. 

There are several minor hotels and boarding-houses at Alexandria Bay, which- 
may be easily discov^ered by inquiry. 



frames of Jslands and wwners in tl^e vicinity of 
Ollexanaria I3ay. 

REPUBLISHED BY PERMISSION OF MESSRS. CROSSMOX & SON. 

Occident and Orient — three acres, owned by E. W. Washburn. N. Y. 

ROBIXSONS — four acres, owned by Mrs. E. N. Robmson. N. Y. 

Fredericks— two acres, owned by C. L. Frederick, Carthage. N. Y. 

I' Rev. Goodrich. Lafargeville, N. Y. 

! Arthur Hughes. Stone Mills. N. Y. 

Waving BRANCHES-five acres, owned by , Frederick Smith. Watertown. N. Y. 

I, L. S. Ainsworth, Watertown, N. Y. 

f Prof. A. H. Brown. \ 

I N. D. Ferguson, ,- Carthage, N. Y. 

Jolly Oaks — seven acres, owned by -, John Norton ' 

[ Hon. AV. W. Buttertield, Redwood. N. Y. 

( Rezot Tozer, J. J. Kinney, Dr. Jones, 
Point Vivian — one hundred acres, owned by. . -, Geo. Jones, Wm. Cooper, and others, 

' Evan's Mills. New York. 

Photo— two acres, owned by A. C. Mclntyre, Brockville, Ont. 

Belle Vesta Lodge — four acres, owned by F. J. Bosworth, Newport, R. I. 

Comfort — two acres, owned by A. E. Clark. Chicago, 111. 

Louisiana Point — three acres, owned by Hon. D, C. Labott, New Orleans, La. 

Warner Island— four acres, owned by H. H. Warner, Rochester, N. Y. 

Cuba — three acres, owned by W. E. Storj-, Buffalo. N. Y. 

Little Angel — one-half acre, owned by W. A. Angell, Chicago, 111. 

Pullmans — three acres, owned by Geo. M. Pullman. Chicago, 111. 

Friendly — three acres, owned by A. B. Parker and Abner Mellen, Jr., N. Y. 

( A. B. Pullman. / pw ,. jij 

Cherry — nine acres, owned l)y • G. B. Marsh. i ' ' ' 

( Rev. George Rockwell, N. Y. 

Nobby— three acres owned by C, S. Goodwin and H. R. Heath, N, Y, 

Florence— two acres, owned by H. S. Chandler, N. Y. 

Welcome— tliree acres, owned by S. G. Pope, Ogdensburg. 

Mald (now Linlithgow)— one-lialf acre, owned by R. A. Livingston, N. Y. 

Point Lookout — one acre, owned by Mrs. Pullock. Adams. N. Y. 

Isle Imperial — one acre, owned l)y Mrs. H. G. LcConte, Philadeli)hia, Pa, 

ILvRTS- live acres, owned by lion. E. K. Hart, Albion, N. Y. 

Pkatts— one and one-lialf acres, owned by H. Sissoii, Alexandria Bay. 

Deshler— .seventeen acres, owned by William (!. Dcsldcr. ("<)lnml)us, O. 

Manhattan — five acres, owned l)y J. L. Hasbiouck mul II..11. .1. ( '. SiKurcr, N. Y, 

St. Johns — six acres, owned by lion, t^harli's iJdiHihue, N. Y. 

Deer— twenty-five acres. ..w n.d l,y lion. S, Miller, New Haven, Conn. 

Fairyland— seven acres, owned by Wm. I'., and Charles TIayden, ('<)lnnil)ns, O. 

MAi'LK-tliree acres, owne<l by I. !,. IlaslnHncI;. .\. Y. 

NKTTS^one-half acre, owned by W. B. llaydrn. C.ilmiilins. O. 

Bonnie Castle— fifteen acres, owned by Mrs. .1. ( ;. 1 1. .Hand, N. ^'. 

c:levelani> Point- fifty acres, owned by I. M. < urds. ( Iceland. < ). 

Point Margi'KRITIC — thirty acres, owned by I- AntlioiiN . N. ^ . 

IX)Nf» Buanch — ten acres, owned by ^Irs. ( '. I'-. < In k. W iti 1 lnu n. N. ^. 

Resort— three acres, owned by I'luhci- ( '\n\<. W'ati riuw n, N. ^'. 

Idlewili) — four acres, owned by Mrs. R. A. I'ai ki 1 . Sayic. I'a. 

Arcadia and Ina— two acres, owned by S. A. I'.i i^gs, N- "* • 

Sport- four acres, owned by U.K. Packer. Maudi ( bnnk, I'a. 



45 

Kit Grafton — one-half acre, owned by Mrs. S. L. Georp^e, Watertown, N. Y. 

Island Mary — two acres, owned by W. L. Palr^er, Carthage, D. K.. 

Little Charm — one-eighth acre, owned by. .Mrs. F.W. Barker, Alexandria Bay, N.Y. 

Frost — two acres, owned by Mrp. S. L. Frost, Watertown, N. Y. 

Excelsior Group — five acres, owned by C. S. Goodwin, N. Y. 

Devil's Oven — one-fourth acre, owned by . . .H. R. Heath, N. Y. 

Sylvan and Moss— three acres, owned by S. T. Woolworth, Watertown, N. Y. 

Little Lehigh — one acre, owned by Chas. H. Cummings, N. Y. 

Summer Land — ten acres Summer Land Association. 

"Summer Land" is owned by the "Summer Land Association," com- 
posed of the following members : Rev. Asa Saxe, D.D., Francis M. 
McFarlin, James Sargent, Emery B. Chase, Lean E. Brace, Isaiah F. 
Force, Henry C. Wisner, Lewis P. Ross, Charley W. Gray, George H. 
Newell, Henry O. Hall, Joseph A. Stud and Frank W. Hawley, of 
Rochester, N. Y., Rev. Almon Gunnison, D.D., and Frank Sperry, of 
Brooklyn, Rev, Richmond Fisk, Alfred Underbill and Horace Bronson, 
of Syracuse, N. Y. 

Island Home — one acre, owned by S. D. Hunger ford, Adams. 

Sunny Side— one acre, owned Ijy Mrs. Emily Moak, Watertown. 

Wild Rose— one acre, owned by Mrs. W.W. Herrick, Watertown. 

Harmony— one-fourth acre, owned by Mrs. Celia Berger, Syracuse. 

Alice — two acres, owned by Col. Cass, N. Y. 

Sunbeam Group— one acre, owned by C. E. Ailing, Rochester. 

Walton— two acres, owned by G. H. Robinson, N. Y. 

Two in Eel Bay— two acres, owned by E. L. Sargent, Watertown. 

Lookout— two acres, owned by Thos. H. Borden, N. Y. 

Douglass — three acres, owned by Douglass Miller, New Haven, Conn. 

Ella — one-fourth acre, owned by R. E. Htmgerford, Watertown, N. Y. 

Sunny Side — two acres, owned by W. Stevenson, Sayre, Pa. 

Wau-Winet— one and one-half acres, owned by C. E. Hill, Chicago, 111. 

Diamond — three acres, owned by Mrs. M. Carter, Poughkeepsie, N. Y.. 

Burtch— seven acres, owned by W. J. Lewis, Pittsburg, Pa. 

Huguenot— two acres, owned by Levi Hasbrouck, Ogdensburg, N. Y. 

Schooner — six acres, ovv-ned by J. Norman Whitehouse, N. Y. 

Elephant Rock — one-foui-th acre, owned by. . . . T. C. Chittenden, Watertown, N. Y. 

Spuyten Duyvel — one acre, owned by Alice P. Sargent, New York, N. Y. 

Browns— ten acres, owned by H. Sisson, Alexandria Bay, N. Y. 

Pleasant — tlii-ee acres, owned by H. Sisson, Alexandria Bay. N. Y. 

ISL.A_ND Royal— one acre, owned by Royal Deane, N. Y- 



DISTANCES. 

Niagara to Toronto 40 Miles Montreal to Portland 278 Miles 

Toronto to Alexandria Bay 167 " " " New York 406 " 

O.swego " " •■' 100 " " "Albany 251 " 

Clayton" " " 12 " " "Troy 251 " 

Alexandria Bay to Montreal 169 " " " White Mountains. .. 201 " 

" " " Watertown.. 28 " " " Saratoga 212 " 

" " " Utica, 132 " Ogdensburg to Ottawa 53 " 

" " " Brockville . . . 24 " Montreal to Quebec 180 " 

" " " Portland via Ogdensbui-g to Malone 61 " 

O, &L. C.400 " \ " " Chateaugay 73 "' 

" " Boston via O. j " " Saratoga 255 " 

& L. C....442 " 

" a ^^ Ogdensburg. 30 " 



iTEAMERS UPON THE 



^'IVER. 



lliOKsand Island & Montreal Steamboat Company, G. Leve, General Traffic 
Manager.— This is the well-knoxni '-New American Line.'' operating the Bothesay, 
which is much tlie largest boat upon the river, in conjunction with the Prince 
Arthur. Tliese boats form the favorite daily througli line from Clayton to Montreal, 
a trip of twelve hours. 

Bicnelieu d- Ontario Xavigation C'o?»jj:y»?/.— Operating several large boats between 
points upon Lake Ontario and Montreal. Trips daily, stopping at all iwints 

Steamer Ontario (new).— Operated by the New York, Ontario & Western R. R.. 
leaving Oswego upon amval of through sleeper from New York, at about 8 a.m.. 
touching at Kingston and Thousand Island points, arri-sdng at Alexandria Bay at 2 p.m. 
leaving upon return trip at 3.30 p.m. ' 

Steamer St. Lawrence (new).— :\Iaking two round trips daily between Cape 
Vincent and Alexandria Bay. connecting with all trains upon the Rome. Watertowu 
& Ogdensburg Railroad (Cape Vincent Branch). 

Steamer Maud. — Ferry between Cape Vincent and Kingston. 

Steamer Princess Louise. — Daily trips between Clayton, Gananoque and Kingston. 

Steamer Puritan. — Ferry between Clayton and Gananoque. 

Steamer Maynard. — Two round trips daily between Clayton and Alexaudi-ia 
Bay. in connection with trains upon the LTtica & Black River R. R., touching at all 
intermediate points. 

Steamer Lsl and Wanderer. — Two daily forty-mile excursions among the islands. 
from Alexandi-ia Bay. (Note description and ma]).) 

Steamer John Thorn. — Excursions among the islands, starting from Alexandria 
Bay. 

Steamer Cygnet. — Bi-weekly from Ogdensburg to Alexandria Bay. and four 
times weekly Ogdensburg to Chijipewa. 

Steamer Stranger. — Daily trips between Alexandria Bay and Ogdensburg. 

Steam yacht F/oro. — Feriy between Thousand Island Park and Fishers' Landing. 

Steam yacht Farrington (of Round Island).— Ferry between Clayton, Round 
Island and Thousand Island Park. 

The .steam yacht Jessie B(ii)i lias been engaged by the Round Island Park Associ- 
ation to alternate with the Farclniilnn in double round tri])5 between Clayton. Round 
Island and Alexandria Bay. 

A large number of steam yachts are operated upon cbaitt-r l)y the day or week, at 
points a Ion;,' the river, ujion reasonai)le terms. 



GEOGRAPHICAL ITEMS OF INTEREST. 

'i'lic following gcogr;i|iliic,il ilciiis of intcicsl arc cxn rptcd fidiii llic .h(j'irson 
County Historical liivicu- : 

'• Jedurson county is situated in the n(jrtli<iii p.iit of the Slate, and is Itounded as 
followH: nf)rthea.st by St. Lawrence County: nMiiliuest by St. Lawrence River; west 
by Lake Ontario ; Hoiith by O.swego ( 'oiiiily. .ind e.i^i hy T-ewisCounty. The superficial 
area of the county is TlW.riH.T acres, or el(\eii Iniiiilrid .iiid forty-six sipi.ire miles. 

'• The special features uf tin- coiuity are I^ake Ontario .ii id I lie St. I „i\vreiice Itiver. 
The main indentations of the- hik.- ,ire tin- Black K'lver (fonm i ly lallcil Hungry) Bay, 
(Jhautnont, Henderson and (Jrillin's IJays. lilack l.'iver H:iyis |ir:itii| in the town of 
Sa<-ket's ilarbor. and is not surpassed by any on Hi.' n|i|iii- l.ikes Imi- ciiiuicity. (|i'|>ili ol 
water and safety. It is cf.ni|pletely l.indlocked .■itid sMrr(Hiiide(j I,;, a hold esciripnient 



47 

of Trenton limestone, varying from the water's ed^e to thirty feet in height. Hender- 
son, Chaumont. Griffin's and a small inlet called Three Mile Bay, are arms of Black 
River Bay ; all included cover an area of about sixty square miles. 

"The principal islands attached to the county are Wells. Grindstone and Carlton 
islands, in the St. Lawrence, and Grenadier. Galloo and Stony islands in Lake Ontario. 
Besides these there ai-e many smaller ones, including a number at the mouth of 
the Black River and in Chaumont Bays, and a portion of the archii^elago known 
as the "Thousand Islands,"' in the River St. Lawi-euce. Among the most i^romineut 
headlands and capes are Stony Point. Sixtown Point. Pillar Point, Point Peninsula 
and Tibbetfs Point. There are at least twenty small lakes in the county, of which ten 
are in the towns of Theresa and Alexandria, four in Ellisburg, two m Antwerp, two in 
Henderson, and one each in Orleans and Pamelia, Champion and Rutland. The largest 
is ButterHeld Lake, lying between Theresa and Alexandria, and is about four miles in 
length. The next of importance are Perch Lake, in Orleans and Pamelia, which is 
neaily three miles in lengtli. and Pleasant Lake in Champion, which is about two 
miles long. The county is almost wholly drained by Lake Ontario and the St. Law- 
rence. The most im]3ortantof the interior streams is Black River, which drains about 
one-fourth part of the country, passing through a little south of the centre. This 
stream furnishes a very large amount of water power : it being estimated as high as 
one hundred and thirty-five thousand three hundred and sixty horse-power in the dry 
season, within the county alone. The other principal streams are Indian River, a 
branch of the Oswegatchie : Chaumont River, flowing into Chaumont Bay ; Perch 
River, which drains Perch Lake and discharges into Black River Bay ; the two 
branches of Sandy Creek, in the south jiart of the county : Stony Creek in Henderson 
and Adams : and Mill Creek in Hounsfield : the last four flowing into Lake Ontario 
south of Black River." 




,AMP1NG. 




still nature spread 

Her fruitful sweetness round, 

Breathed on the air, 

And brooded on the ground." 



A ^I PING out has its humorous 
features, which, to the appreciative 
ami philosophical mind, more than 
counterbalance the thousand 
and one small worries of 
the occasion. The grotesque 
procession passing to and fro 
between the boats and the 
.s'lni^i]^ camp site, each individual 

laden with some; article of domestic 
utility or comfort, the petulant enumeration of tilings 
forgotten, the impatient waitmg for supper while the 
slices of ham sjnitter feebly in the pan over a lire that 
obstinately refuses to burn properly — these are a few features of riverside life engra- 
ven upon tlie memories of hundreds of campers. But how cjuickly such discomforts 
sink into insignificance when we find ourselves stretched at last upon the verge of the 
smootl]. gray rocks, tracing fantastic semblances to things divine in the embers of 
the clieerful. breeze-tossed beacon-fire ! How svveetlj^ then comes the music of the 
fiddle and song across the black waters from other camps, where other fires leap up 
joyously responsive to the added fuel of our own ! The highest ambition of the 
juveniles of camp is found in rearing, upon the outermost extremity of the island, a 
great pyre of driftwood, witli perhaps a barrel or so, which is fired u]5on the approach 
of the evening steaniljoat, casting a lurid glare far across the waters, athwart which 
the vague form of tlie steamer is seen for a brief moment, only to vanish into tlie 
darkness Ijeyond. If. perchance, the helmsman should give the triph^ salute of 
courtesy in recf)gnition of their enterjirise, then is the cuj) of youtliful ha]>piness 
full indeed. 

Tin- Iiamiiiock is now recognized ;is :i vital iiccessity in cNciy wcil-rc.niiliitcil (•.iiiip. 
Ten years ago, the eccentric indi\iilii.il wlm u.-iiiiid tn test the cimilnrls uT llml 
production of tropic lands, waw obliged lo prowl ;iloiig the wharves until lie louJid a 
West Indiaman, wlien lie might, if good fortune crowned his eflforts. succeed in buy- 
ing one strongly imi)regnated with tol)acco, perchance, from some needy sailor. Tie 
then took it home surreptitiously, and swung it away around in the back yanl. <ml nl 
sight, wliere tlic hiri'd girl was siiici(j iri|i nvcr it wlini slic hiiug oiii (lie cluilics. 
Wlien he ventured to H^ving in it. 1h' -nun Imw felt :is llioiiuli :i i-(iniiiiissii)ii ol' hin.-icy 
might be culled l)j' his frii'nds. and lie alw;i3s insislcil t h.il ii IkhI htin sent lu him .is 
a present by a traveler in distant lands, who didn't kimw ;inv liiitir. 

Nf)w, Ijowever. it lias ••oinf about th.'d thi h;iiniii<ic |< (or two f)f tliein), is an insti- 
tution in every weil-regulati'd door-yar:!. :iiii| \\c who h:ive no door-yard liiggiT th;in 
a jxtstagc stamp, swing oni' ill oiir si ii'ly. rmilin;: it :i ;^i<:il loinlinl on winter iii^hls. 

There is but a single drawifack to tlic li.-miiuock, and tiial is the lact tiiat after you 
have been dropped suddenly by something giving way th.at ought to have been 
stronger, and j)unclied tlie vertebraj of your spinal roluinn all out of shaiie iijion 
rough and projecting roots or stray cro(|uet balls, ymi m m r In 1 ijuih iMppv in your 



49 



liours spent m its rest-giviDg meshes. Therefore, be sure in the first place to hang your 
hammock over a soft place. See that the fastenings (which should be strong leather 
straps, if suspended from trees— ropes won't do, they gall the bark), are properly se- 
cured, and lastly, invite some fellow who weighs fifty pounds more than you do to try 
it first. 

The hammock plays an important part in the economy of camp life. What 
dreamily delightful afternoons may be spent sitting vis a vis with some confidante, 
lazily swinging in rythmic unison with the influences of the summer hour ! What 
glory, too, is found in the mess of freshly-caught bass or pickerel, and what heart-felt 
regrets are sent after the bigger fish " lost in pulling him in !" And the sunsets ! 
Such sunsets, at the supreme moment when the orb rests just upon the top of the slop- 
ing western shore, reflected with its panoply of cloudlets, each gilded outpost dupli- 
cated in the still lake ! You may see but one such in a month of camping, but let that 
be remembered as a glimpse throiigh the gates of lieaven. 

The numbers of enterprising families which camped out last summer among the 
Thousand Islands was greater than ever. The business of supplying camping equipage 
has become a regular item of industry at Syracuse, Utica and other points in New York 
State. A tent with a " fly," and subdivided by a curtain, large enough to hold a party 
of a half dozen, can be rented for about three dollars per week. A floor is worth the 
trouble and expense, both being slight. Tables, chairs (especially the steamboat vari- 
ety), hammocks, &c., should be taken along. A portable coal-oil stove, with wdiich we 
can bake, broil, fry or cook, in any style you please, can be had for about twelve 
dollars. These stoves are not supplied with appropriate obituaries, being quite safe. 

There are hundreds of pretty nooks where campers may revel in peace and seclu- 
sion among the Islands. It is well, however, to flnd out who owns the land, and get 
permission in advance. Boats c m be had for a half dollar per day at Clayton, Alexan- 
dria Bay, and other leading points, and should be accompanied by a sail of the 

" spreet" variety, if you know how to use it. 

In selecting a camping-place, take into consideration 
the advantages of being near the mainland where farm 
produce can be had. Farmers' boys will bring pi'oduce in 
boats if you arrange with them. A weekly expendituie 
of say three dollars for each individual will piovide a 
princely bill of fare. 

People of common sense need liaidH be told that 

flannel, for both shirts and di esses, is the best thing for 

camping, and that big strav\ hats aie a blessing. 

If the numbers or exchecquer of a camping coteiie \m11 

admit, it will pay to 

engage a steam yacht 

large enough to be safe 

and dry in rough 

weather, and partially 

enclosed as a protection 

againsc storms. 

Staunch craft of this 

kind may usually be 

chartered with the servi- 
ces of pilot and engineer 

at a cost of about twelve 

dollars per day. It is 

worth while to be sure 

before making a bargain 

that the pilot's certificate 

permits him to take the 

boat as far up or down 

the river as the party is 

likely to wish to go. 



\ 




,KIPP ^AILING— ©be [^i 



verman. 



VTby siiould we yet our s;iil imfr.rl ? 
There is not a breath the blue waves to curl 
But. when the wind blows oft" the shore. 
Oh : sweetly we'll rest ou our weaiy oar. 




'Iff— _ "^ -=^^fcr,;w-; 



sguii'-:; 



IVERY visitor to the Thou- 
sand Islands who is at all 
an fait in the matter of 
sailing, must admire the 
grace, speed and capabili- 
ties of the St. Lawrence 
skiff, and. no less, the skill 
anti daring with which it is handled 
upon the breezy and often tempestuous 
oi^en waters between the islands. 

If the stranger is observant, he 
will notice that these skiffs have no 
rudders. They are propelled by oars 
either way with equal facility, and 
' ^^■- ' ' when the boatman has his party, 

generally a lady and gentleman, stowed away comfortably in the chairs, which 
are a proper and indispensable feature of every boat hereabouts, and his sail 
shaken out with "sprit" all fast, he will discover that the waterman is handling 
his boat entirely by the •■sheet,"' or line holding the sail in leash. By this he will 
guide his obedient craft upon any Avind. as surely and safely as a trainer upon 
the race-track controls a spirited steed. A longer acquaintance with the ways of 
the boatman develops the fact that when a flaw careens the craft, he not only 
loosens the sheet slightly but lays forward, and if his guests are both gentlemen, and he 
wants to go about in a stiff breeze, he does not hesitate to request them to "lay 
for'ard" also, thus depressing the bow of the boat and allowing the stern to swing free. 
Per contra, when the wind is astern, all hands may be snugly bunched aft, and in 
"falling away" to fill the sail, wlicn she runs up into the wind, (he boatman will Iny 
well back, thus dragging tlie stern. 

These things charm and amaze tlie amateur, and \>y dint of close attention he soon 
masters the details of this peculiar method of sailing. He nuist. however, know not 
only how to do the right tiling at the right moment, but just also how to do it in the 
shortest possible way. His action must become automatic, and his eye trained to read 
every sign the winds write upon flic iniprrssjlilc surl'acr nf ti:c u.ilcis. 

Most of the profe.ssional boatmen who are to ije found during Llu' summer at liouiid 
Island Park, Thousand Islan.l and Westminster Parks and Alexaiulria Bay, ready to 
pilot excursionists to the best fishing jdaces. arc clever mechanics who l)nild bo.its in 
the winter time, and some of them have acquired \\ i<lr n|)wtation f'oi- l he ixcdK nee ol 
their handiwork. There is no jjlace ujion the list of touring ])oin(s wiu're the lioats 
are HO universally good as here. Such a thing as a snuinnosed. tlat-l)oft<)nied " tul)." 
or gaily painted but f)tlierwise fontempt ihle row-hoat. wliiili. in iii:iny pLices is 
tlioiight to l)c " good enougli for summer tourists,'" is uidomw ii Im n . 

The St. Tiawn-nce'skilTis I mi It of perfect, knot less pijie. ;i 1 1 ill< immic i Ikmi <>nc-(|nart('r 
inch in tliickncss. It is well rihlied with white oak strii»s, phic. d .iliuin ruiii- indies a i)art. 
The "shear" is a perfect curve and every line in siglit harmoiii/.rs. A <le( k extends 
about thirty inches from its pointed ends, made up of piii(:inil \\:ilniil -^inlV l.iid in 
strips, with a centre-piece on top to stiffen it. I.eii-ili i w eni \ -'mm- jnd one h.iir iVii ; 
beam, in the centre, outside incisure, three fer^t :iimI three inejies; di pth. thirtien 




inches. Snug seats are placed fore and aft. These are detachable for sponging out. 
The stern seat is fitted with an arm chair, cane-seated and backed, without legs. Five 
feet forward of this is another seat with a similar chair, and upon the thwarts between 
them are catches to hold trawling rods and rings for the sheet line. The two chairs 
face, and behind the last named is the fish-box. which is exactly in the centre of the 
boat. This box serves as a seat for the rower when alone in the boat, in which case he 
rows stem forward. Ordinai'ily the rower sits vipon a seat placed so that the fLsh-bos 
seiwes as a foot-brace. Detachable out-riggers are used. The boat has no keel, but 
an elliptic bottom-piece, perfectly flat, is used. This is about five inches wide at cen- 
tre. Upon this the boat slides when being hauled ujd on the wharf. A center-board, 
patented by Atwood Bros., of Clayton, occupies the space under the rower's seat. It 
folds up hke a fan into a sheath, which is water-tight, being opened and closed by a 
lever carefully packed. The sail-brace and socket for base of mast are carefully fitted,, 
and the mast and sail, when not in use, lie along the starboard side of the seats. A 
false bottom of movable stuff protects the light frame, and this is covered by neatly 
fitting canvas. Feathering oars are seldom used, the boatmen claiming that a well- 
balanced pm. oar can be more easily dropped to haul in a fish. 

An indispensable adjunct of every boat is a pair- of sti'ong hickory rods, which are 
set at light angles with the thwarts. The trawling lines, which are let out perhaps 
one hundi-ed feet, are thus well apart. Every good boat has a glittering display of 
nickel or silver-plated metal about it. including out -riggers and seat-braces. 

The foregoing faMy describes a boat owned by the writer, and buUt by Colon, of 
Clayton. Its value is about |90. and its weight something like 140 pounds. Boats are 
made by Colon costing ^1.50. Dr. A. Bain, of Clayton, is the leading dealer in this 
class of boats. 

K there is any class of watercraf t. from a Jersey coast cat-rig to a Saguenay birch- 
bark or an amateur- canoe, which can afford its owner more pleasui-e for the amount 
invested than the St. Lawrence skiff, the writer, who has paddled in many waters, has 
yet to discover it. 

I once knew a boy who started a diaiy and opened it uj)on the first day of the year 
with, •■•Didn't do nothin" much." The balance of its pages were simply inscribed. 



52 

•• dicto. ditto." Such is about the case with the St. Lawrence boatmen for the period 
of the year when they are snowed in. Then they get arovmd red-hot stoves and tell 
stupendous stories about muscallonge and comi:)are notes as to the summer folks they 
hare rowed. "When the ice iipon the river is clear, ice-boating is the order of 
the day. 

It takes but httle to get up a vast wave of local exciten:ent at Clayton or •• the 
Bay ■■ out of the season. The big hotels are closed, boats all housed, and there is 
absolutely nothing to do but wait for spring. Oh! yes, I had nearly forgotten, most 
of these oarsmen are '■ handy" with tools, and many of them build skiffs during the 
winter. In the spring there is a great demand, far in excess of the supply (growing 
more lu-gent in April, and still more in May and June) for carpenters, painters and 
laborers. The sound of the hammer is heard in the land, and the smell of linseed-oil is 
borne upon every breeze. Then the boatmen are busy, indeed, besides putting in 
some spare time upon their boats and sails mornings, evemngs and Sundays. 

Taken altogether, the St. Lawrence boatman is a good fellow, being temperate, 
honest and capable, full of diy wit, and a fund of amphibious experience worth the 
hearing. He thinks for himself, and clings to the traditions of his calling with proud 
tenacity. 

There is nothing of the hackman about liim. He has a uniform charge of three 
dollars per day for his services and boat, and can give you far more than your 
money's worth — and he kaows it. 

The generally fair treatment of city people by the natives in matters of purchase, 
either of then- time or products, is one of the charms of the region. We, as cottagers, 
have always been able to buy our kitchen supplies at the regular local rates, which are 
far below those ruling in city markets. 

Fishing, and especially trawling, hereabouts, ouglit to be the very essence of 
happiness for the lazy man. For his especial comfort is the legless arm-chair in the 
stern. To save him the trouble of twisting his neck in looking after the lines that 
trail from tlie ends of the two set-rods, twenty feet apart, little bells are cunningly 
depended from the tips of the rods, to give the alarm of a strike, and then the line is 
hauled in to the side of the boat by a convenient guy line, leaving tlio rod 
undisturbed. 

Your fisherman not only knows wliere and how to get the piscatorial prey, but as 
well how to cook and serve them when he has landed his party in some secluded nook 
for the noonday lunch. From the inner depths of the boat come forth a surprising 
array of cooking utensUs, and even a folding-table and camp stools to match are 
forthcoming. Coffee, pickles, cold meats, and minor sorts of condiments, not forget- 
ting, if you i)lease, a bottle of liquid comfort, and some smoking toliaeco : these make 
up the visi'ole evidences of a day of perfect content. The atmos])hen'. and tlie uncon- 
ventional bending of all to the abandon of the liour, do the rest. 

Other Ijoats liave come in to the common rendezvous, and now we may lK'lK)ld 
him of the cloth who gives us our Sunday di.scourse in the hotel i)arlor, busy in scaling 
a i)ickerel under tlie mentorship of his oarsman, while the legal, medical and artistic 
jirofessions are dejjloyed in search of dry-wood wiierewitli to build a fire, and all this 
jiuroly as volunteer l)elp ; for the genuine boatmen would attend to it all if you could 
but wait with patience. 

Tin- la/.y man lias b-en surprised into action for oncp. ]uTliai)s it is l)ccans(> he is 
HO hungry. 

One of Maclntyre's most successful pictures (.Maeint \ ic is the iiliot'i.maplier. 
jKir cxcclleiice, of the river) depicts President Arthur sitting at a wondJimd lalije ii|>i>ii 
one of the islands, behind the remains of a melon, and an array of enii)iy dishes. We 
can well i)eliev<' that the President, in the midst of the pressing duties of his high 
r.fliee, may often turn Im this pi. lure and sigii lur the islands and diiir Ireeddin 
once more. 

Tliere are Home people who would r.-il hn- IImmI ;i|.inv cal-elcss ot passin-- lioiirs. ni- 
with jierchance a good hook, to moor their li(»al henealh the shallow ol some low 
swinging hough. an<l then and there go to sleep over its pages. 

There is a peculiar <liarm in iliiflin- r,vei the rocky shallows, where pliant, rapidly 




No. 



-FROM CHRISLER'S ISLAND TO ST. REGIS. 



53 

changing submarine mosaics are shadowed by the dancing wavelets; where the coy 
bass lazily seeks his food and the relentless pickerel waits in ambush for the fated 
minnow. 

The depths are not so lucid nor so plentifully populated with wondrous forms of 
mai ife, as upon some coral reefs I remember in the Bahamas, bu.t there is always 
a subtle pleasure in moving along sinoothly and silently a few feet above jagged 
masses of rock that need but a little more to take on the dignity of islands, and which 
drop away into water ever so deep with startling suddenness. 

To compass all of these things one should own, or at least rent, his boat, and be his 
own oe uan. The boatmen have their private opinion of folks who would rather 
look over t-ie sides of the boat, and read, dream, or do other lazy things, than to put in 
an honest '^ay's fishing. Such folks, by refusing to catch fish, bring their oarsmen 
into disrepute when they go back to the hotel at night. Therefore, I say, if you are 
too lazy to fish, why, take a boat to yourself, or persuade some other equally lazy man 
to go along. Perhaps the writer might favor you if called upon when not suffering a 
lucid interval of industry. 

Given the se conditions and the novice will shortly be inducted into ways of 
serene joy — quiet plans for contented enjoyment of the blessed i^resent, of which, in 
his headlong chase after the elusive spirit of pleasure, he never before dreamed. 




\nVtl TO IHt \.f\¥,t Of THt \S\.KUO. 




anoe;. 




mm: 



They say that I am small and frail. 

And cannot Live in stormy seas : 
It may be so, yet every sail 

Makes shipwreck in the swelling breeze. 
Nor strength, nor size, can hold them fast, 

But fortune's favor, heaven's decree ; 
Let others trust in oar and mast. 

But may the gods take care of me 1 " 

N using this word 
I do not wish 
to remind the 
reader of the 
cuiubersome dug- 
out of the basket- 
peddling Indian, 
or the picturesque 
but rude birch- 
bark of the 
Canadian voya- 
ge uv, but of that 
mode r n a n d 

_._^_. .. _.,..,, daintiest of 

'- "■-- .-^ = -_ • . ../-^ -l?."^ - crafts, the cruis- 

~' ""-- ing canoe, useful 

alike for paddling or sailing, which has been seen in increasing numbers among the 
i.slands the past two or three seasons. 

As the American Canoe Association has elected to hold its annual international 
camp at a point in the midst of the Thousand Islands, during the month of August 
of the coming season (1884), a short chapter relative to the organization and its 
objects is in place here. 

As the information is intended more especially for the general reader, I need not 
enter into the arena of discussion concerning the merits of the several make* 
in use — the Rob Roys, Racines, Shadows, Stella-Maris, Pearls, Jersey Blues, &c., 
which are so eagerly 
advocated by their 
friends among canoe- 
ists. All wlio care for 
8f>ecific and technical 
informatir)n upon this 
l)oint can lind it in the 
CanoeiHt, a bright little 
sheet publislied by 
McHftrH. Brentano Bros., 
No. n Union Scpiare, 
New York. 'I'lnnin tin- 
reader may l<arii liuw 
to rig, manage and get 3;-,\<^. 

back into a canoe after ";. T" 

he ha.H been uncfrcmo- 
niously Hpilled out of 
hi.s prfrariouH craft by 
soni"' nnforsffn and ckuot— ?uvl r\qow 




55 




spiteful flaw, a trifle wliicli your genuine cruising canoeist takes as a matter of 
course with but little more disturbance of his serenity than a wheelman feels after a 
"header" from his "Columbia 56."' 

The writer's first acquaintance with the American Canoe Association began with 
a journalistic sojourn of four days upon Lorna Island, in the centre of Lake George, in 
August, 1883. This island is owned by the association, and, aside from its in- 
convenience of access and lack of elevation, is a very pretty camping place. Lake 
George has been regarded as the home par excellence of the canoe, but the rapid 
extension of the sport and consequent increase of membership has drawn the 
association into larger fields. Last summer the Canadians, who are really in the lead 
in cruising if not in sailing, induced the members in the States to pay them a visit, 
and the camp was held at Stony Lake, a lovely sheet, closely resembling portions of 
the St. Lawrence, hidden far away in the Canadian forests to the north of Lake 
Ontario. This event was a great success. 

As many of the visitors returning from Stony Lake cruised down the river, 
camping en route, an interest was aroused which has resulted in the selection of 
Delaney's Point, at the foot of Grindstone Island. (See map for the camp of 1884). 

It is reasonably expected that this occasion will bring out the full force of 
enthusiastic paddlers. New York City will send two strong clubs, and large numbers 
will come from New England, the Middle and several Western States. Cincinnati 
boasts some of the most daring and expert men in the organization. Of course the 
Canadians will be there with their " Peterboros." The camp will be maintained from 
the 1st to 12th of August. 

A series of regattas and races, both for sailing and paddling, will be among the 
events anticipated. It is expected that at least four hundred canoes will assemble 
upon the opening day. 





^BOUT [Rafting. 

Led by the deep-lunged tow-boat on, 
"Witli bellied sails its length along f 
Past woodland isle and busy to\\'n 
The cumbrous raft is floating down. 



HE rapid consumption of timber is occa- 
sioned by the manifold demands of the 
1'! ,' W iillff^liihi:';! building trade and kindred arts, and the 

'ill "'-y-: ^i'i' ' i steady increase of the population whose 

wants are to be sui:)plied. has led to 
gra\-e apprehensions that the days of the 

_, w ■■■■■■■■' ■■'m "''•'''■'■'■'■\WSf'- ''•-'''• timber traffic must soon be numbered 

Y^|yj_i /\ ^^^.jjgg^rf^^j^^'^i^^ for want of material upon which to 

\^%W^^^M![< • 1 1 it~~^~^r^^^l5^i?--^-''' maintain it. Figures have been 

V \/ X "^N. "^^^^■:s-..._l ' ii •i'ii'i ^ repeatedly given which demonstrate 

:_^j — J ^. — -^^^^ ^v":^ .^r::;:-;;!iv-- that this catastrophe cannot be far 

7^ — ^;|y^. --.^,rj^ ^-^,— ,.^-- v>...- ------ distant, unless some reinedy, the nature 

^-- M,i,i„i,i , , ;=;iillij?r'!:«'n''iiiii ' ^^ wMch is uot verj' clearly indicated, 

J;';'£;::ii I Jtjil! ■ !iL4Mii^J4ii:l,^^lV■ is applied without further dela3^ It is a 

::':3!3r::i":'';::!'"!r:;r;-|iEl!^t^ subject about which statistics are not exact, 

V^ .:-:--=iiH44lf:^^'ii!!4-)i!!'i:i:i:;i and authorities are widely at variance ; but 

.- , that there is real and imminent danger it seems impossible 

^--.:-.:i=:zz~-— to doubt. Meanwhile, however, the trade goes bravely on. 

— _ili -' :\ It is at present, and must long continue to be, one of the 

_..._...._—:! ;j gx-eat industries of the country, employing a large amount 

"'.[- ■' '1 of capital, and affording a livelihood for thousands of 

hardy, adventurous men. Their season of toil is as lull of 

peril and vici.ssitude as a soldier's campaign, and tlie moderate reward which they 

obtain is richly earned. Tlie manner in whicli their arduous calling is pursued on 

the River St. Lawrence is the subject of the illustrations herewitli. 

One year the wTiter pitclied his summer camp amid a superb grouj) of lordly pines 
upon an island of the St. Lawrence River. Tliese fine, slmpely trees became, after a 
short aciiuaiiitauce, close friends. They gave grateful shade bj' day, and sang to the 
listening campers all niglit in gentle but melancholy cadence, as the breezes swept 
through their twistetl limbs, whispering tales wliich one of lively imagination, fond of 
the mj'sterious voices of nature, miglit easilj* translate into logeuds of limes long ago, 
when, doubtless, the nf)tii;i<lic iroipiois l)uilt liis less jn'mifiil i^mip lire witliin tlnir 
shadows. 

It was litllf woridt-r. llicn, llwil iipoii revisiting [\\c \>\:\r,' ilminL;- tlic i)ast 
summer, a feeling of dire outrage pre\aili'<l over every otlicr siii'-e. ii|iiiii liniliuLi two 
of these ancient and shapely trees hopelessly ginlliil \>\ tin . .ililcs <<[' ilic imHshk ii. 
Trees are the common property, in .some senses, ol I In ijcopli . I Ir i li;ii dc^iidys a tree, 
except that it niay prove of greater use in tin Iimmi ciI ImnlMr m im I, commits a 
sin against the domi'stic economy of Nature: while one wim |il;iiil>. a tiie. w;ilcring its 
thirsty rf)ots and caring for its infiiney, that his posterK \ m.iy irjuire in its siiade, 
builds liim.self a noble mf)nuMieiit. 

In the (■f)urse of the season, ;i no" l.ii- r.iCl (•<>ile<l its siiake-liUe leiigt li one lriiij)est- 
uous night under the lei- df dur i^l.in<l, :mmI the men e.mie ,e Ikuc, hauling in a heavy 
cable to " snub u|>"' their unwieldy er.ilt. 'iJunl s|)oil ,in\ ni<iic I rees !" we shouted, 
" tie to the girdled ones." Probably an .American crew wduM Imm' met dui- protest 



57 



-Jit-^'^'^^ 




with the breezy profanity of the Occident, but these French Canadians are more man- 
nerly. With a cheerful " Oui, Monsieur," the heavy ropes were quickly given a turn 
arouud the injured trees, and the raft swung in toward the shore. Now the tired 
raftsmen sat down to supper upon the timbers around a cook's "galley " built of square 
timber bedded with gravel and ashes, with a couple of forked sticks and a cross-bar, 
from which iron pots depended upon hooks. The cheerful boss mvited us on board 
and, with his men, tendered us such simple hospitality that before we left them we 
had nearly forgiven them the murder of the trees. We had promised to ride down 
the river a few miles upon the raft on the following morning, and therefore "tumbled 
out" at an inconveniently early hour; but lo! the raft, with its puffing, lazy steamer 
in front, was already a mile away down the stream. However, with a good sailing 
skiff and a fair breeze, it is not difficult to overtake a raft, and half an hour later we 
were again on board. 

The men had long since disposed of their breakfast of fried bacon and boiled 
potatoes, and were distributed along the raft, which was in fact three rafts in one, and 



5S 

extended a third of a mile at least. Some ^vere driving strong hickory pins into the 
binders which led from one section to another : others were binding these into a com- 
pact superstructiire with withes of oak. The timber was ah-eady squared, and lay 
half a dozen sticks deep. All of these thousands of immense pieces were seciu-ely 
boimd without injuring the wood with peg-holes. One part of the raft was made up 
of baiTel staves, also closely bound. Near the bow (if a raft may be said to have 
a bow), a group of men were coiling the great cables and completing a winch for 
weighing the anchors when necessary: and the anchors themselves, as large as those 
of a frigate, lay close by. Dug-outs were hauled up on the timbers, and one or two 
tents, in wliich the men slept, were pitched between some especially large logs. The 
boss and his gang-foremen occupied a shanty, and even indulged in the luxury of 
straw mattresses in their bunks. From the '"boss" we learned, tlirough an inter- 
preter, a great deal of the hard and often exciting life upon a timoer raft. A section 
of such a raft is known as a "dramn," and the present one was made up of some 
seventeen of these, its value being something more than $250,000. Before reaching 
the great rapids of the river, where the hard work and excitement culminate, these 
'"dramns" are cut apart. The steam towboat (which looks, with its huge paddle- 
boxes, like the earliest of ti-ansatlantic steam vessels), drops its cable and each section 
looks out for itself. The crews push or pull at the long oars rigged at the front and 
rear and along the sides, keeping the timbers parallel with the swift current. Some- 
times a raft breaks up, and then come simply ruin and death. It is considered so safe, 
however, that it is quite tlie fashion for ladies and gentlemen at Montreal to go up to 
Lachine, nine miles above the city, and go down that famous rapid upon the raft. 

The bulk of the timber passing "in the stick" down the St. Lawrence is brought 
to Kingston, at the foot of Lake Ontario, from Lake Superior in "lakers,"" as the big 
schooners are called, and there made up. The vast forests to the northward of the 
Bay of Quinte also give a large supply. The force upon such a raft as the one we 
visited numbers about thirty men. and they can take two rafts, or groujis of rafts, to 
^lontreal moutlily. 




UTUMN 



lAYS. 




" The fairest time of all may be 
September's golden days. 
Press on, though summer waneth, 

And falter not for fear : 
For God can make the autumn 
The glory of the year. 



PRINGTIME and summer are each beauti- 
ful in their own particular way, but among 
these noi'thern lake lands all the months 
that have gone before lead up to September, 
while the two that succeed bring us back 
from the dreams that we have dreamed for 
a month, and lead us by gentle steps down 
to the endurance of bitter cold, the changes 
not only of seasons, but in human affairs 
and lives which must intervene before 
another perfect spell shall rest like a benison 
upon these waters again, and once more 
iind us (so let us hope) floating idly upon 
the qiiiet flood now but seldom furrowed by 
the speeding steam-yacht, or broken by the 
cumbrous, laboring tow-boat. 

It is now that the breezes come so softly 
over the mirrored waters that they do not 
even break the enamel of the surface — 
breezes as warm and sensuous as the 
zephyrs that sweep among the palm-fronds 
I in Caribbean forests, or waft along the parti-colored 

' sails of the Adriatic. 

Now each islet is mirrored in a reverse dui^licate. 

It ib now that in minnow-land a rumor grows that the 

summer fishermen who have cruelly impaled myriads of their fellows 

upon barbed and barbarous hooks, have gone away, and that it is safe to seek the 

haunts of June. 

In September, the boatman who still keeps on fishing, not so much becavise he 
wants fish, as from the impulse of habit, mourns that the noble pickerel, and nobler 
muscallonge he throws upon the dock at evening, call no admiring concoui'se of city 
folks arovmd them. 

About this time the late and unfashionable cottager who stays, lets his soul go out 
in commiseration of those who do not. 

Now is it that, floating along, we presently discover unsuspected reefs and caverns 
in the sunlit depths of the river. 

The ducks, too, begin to appear in pairs, quartettes and dozens, and toward evening 
as the cool north wind freshens, the plaintive note of the loon comes, like the last 
despairing cry of the drowning, from the gathering gloom. 

Now comes the time when the fire-place, hitherto esteemed solely for its decorative 
effect, assumes an important part in the domestic belongings. There is the magic of 
great content in drawn curtains and only the light of fitful flames and the glowing 
embers of well-seasoned hickory. 

There is good cheer in the little circle which gathers around the camj)-fire now, 
and song follows song or story until well nigh midnight. 



6o 

Standing upon the hillside along the half-tilled main-shore the islands are seen, 
morning, noon and night, dimly through the soft haze, floating in an iniinitude of 
distance. 

Perfect days — golden links in the chain of the year. Full gladness seems to 
pervade the earth: death, sorrow and all evil tilings seem banished until a more fittiug 
time shall remind us that we are mortal. 

The days of summer just gone by have been given over to much self- consciousness 
of new clothes, and some bitterness of spirit. Verily it is better to gain five pounds 
through idling in the shade than to provoke envy in tlie heart of thy neighbor with 
much display of apparel. The man who can review his summer complacently in 
September is a blessed and hapj^y mortal. 

Thougli the tables at the hotel are thinly lined with hui-uanity, those who stay 
axe better cared for than in August. 

There are few to see and admire. The crowds are back in the cities. The 
September sun shines there as well, but it illumes only unrest, ambition — Vanity Fair. 

Tliere. perhaps, the sunsets are as grand as here, yet, who climbs to the house-tops 
to see them ? Once I stood beside the black precincts of a foundry. All the skj' was 
rich with the banners of evening. The sooty, tired ci'owd siu'ged forth and scattered to 
their homes. Not one lifted his eyes from the ground to gaze tlu'ough the oi^en gates 
of heaven. Yet who shall blame them? No man had taught these toilers how they 
might find pleasure and mental profit in plants, running streams, the sunset and 
the storm. 

It is so with many who come here. More enlightened Fashion may sometime decree 
September a month of summer lioliday. 








6 



RCEZES. 




Oh weel I mind, oh weel I mind, 

Tho' now my locks are snow. 
How oft langsyne I sought to find 

What made the bellows blow ! 
How, cuddling on my grannie's knee, 

I questioned night and day, 
And still the thing that puzzled me 

Was, where the wind came t'rae ? 



OT the least interesting of the daily 
processes of out-door nature among the 
islands is the question of wind. Indeed,, 
there does not seem any room for 
question, at least during July and 
August; for the midday breeze from 
the west is about as regular an insti- 
tution as dinner, varied, to be sure, at 
rare intervals with a " norther,'" which 
comes down upon us from Labrador as 
cool and often as fierce, in its way, as 
the prototype which lashes the lonely 
waters of the Gulf of Mexico into a 
fury and drives the thin-blooded sons of 
the Aztecs further into their zerapes. 
The St. Lawrence breeze is an important 
asset in the sum of advantages the 
region has to offer. It sweeps down 
across the broad bosom of Ontario and effectually stimulates the indolent and perhaps 
tired occupants of the piazzas into a desire for action. It forms a conspiracy with 
the sun to tan the wan cheek of the city girl and the hands of the piscatorially- 
inclined clerk. 

To the boatman it is a joy, for he can then drop his oars and up with his " sprit." 
It sways the hammock and renders ^olian music through the nodding pines. 
It makes people hungry. Each morning and evening is a blessed calm. The 
interval is given to the increase and decline of the winds. 

Much of the time it is too fresh in the open reaches between the islands for small 
craft, which must hover behind the lea of headlands until it is passed. There are 
grand days in early September when even the staunch steamboats that run upon the 
local circuits between Cape Vincent or Clayton and the " Bay "' have a hard time of it. 
Then the great green billows advance in stately array, curling over the shoals and 
beating ineffectually against the rocky exposures of the islands. 

In such weather as this sometimes the strong and buoyant ''catamarans," of 
which there are several, indulge in the exciting sport of a race with the steamboats. 

Then there is the capricious and coquettish breeze which sometimes comes along, 
after a hot day and tempts people to sail away for miles, with the promise of an equally 
easy return, and then turns and blows " dead ahead," against which they must pull or 
tack back again 

Little betrayals of this kind are readily forgiven, however, for Boreas is our best 
servant, take him all in all, and if our daily plans conform to his inclination, we get 
along with him with very little trouble: for, remembering that " it's an ill wind that 
blows nobody good," it is pretty certain that somebody's ends are served, no matter 
from what quarter it may blow. 



LEXANDRIA PSAY TO THE hcACHINE 



h^ 




Past little villages we go, 

With quaint old gable-eads that glow 

Still iu the simsefs fire: 
And gliding through the shadows still, 
Oft notice, with a lover's thrill, 

The peeping of a spire. 



X leaving Alexandria Bay for Montreal upon the Eolliesaij 

as she comes along in the morning, the wise tourist, should 

■^''' he have breakfasted before coming upon board, will select 

a comfortable outlook fore or af ;, and, gathering his coterie 

(if blessed with friends upon his travels). will adjust himself 

and them for a long and quiet morning's ride. 

^ It should be stated that an excellent breakfast and dinner are served 

y; upon the Rothesay and Prince Arth itr. 

f Scattering islands, many of them (juite as wild as when the white 

man first voyaged here, are passed all the way down to Brockville, where the Thousand 
Island system terminates in a group called the " Three Sisters.'" 

Brockville is a substantial Canadian city of 7,000 people. It is 125 miles from 
Montreal by the river. 

The reader will note the large nimibcr of fine private pro]:)erties along the rugged 
river front, both above and below the town, 

Immediately opposite is the American town of Morristown. which is upon the 
line ()( the Utica & Black River Railroad. 

The hand.some Terrace House at Morristown Park, near this place, is one of the 
pleasantest stopping-places upon the river. It is managed this season by Mr. S. H. 
Wadsworth, a well-known hotel man, and strangers having seen the upper islands, can 
hardly do ))etter tlian devote a few days of their stay upon the river to this shady and 
cheerful place. The RotheHaij touches at tlie Terrace House lauding. 

Fom'teen miles beyond, the Canadian town of Prescott and the American city of 
Ogdonsburg stand vis-a-vis upon the banks of the river. Prescott has a jjopulation 
of about ij.OOO, and bears tlie solid air for whicli all Canadian towns are famous. 
Tlio "Daniels"' is a good hotel. ;iimI cninys ;i lai-gc jjalronagc. A r:iil\\:iy con- 
nects the St. Lawrence at this i)oiiit with ()tt;i\\;i. I lie Canadian caiiiliiL 'I r;i\(lcrs (o 
whom the voyage down the rapids is famili.ir. \\ ill liml llic i;iil tri|i li> ( )|(aw;i .■md 
steamer voyage down the wild and beautiful (Jttawa a v* rv di\crtiiig cxjn ricnci'. 

Ogdensburg, the largest and most aflluent place in northern New Yorlc, merits 
more tlian a |)assing notice. It is the focal point of three lines of r.iilway, and a dejwt 
for a vast transhipment of grain and Inmlu'r from the West. \\ illi .in energetic po])- 
ulatif)n of nearly 1(),(KlO largely engaged Iti inainifaeturing ;uiil inlcrnal commerce, 
Ogden.sbnrg bids fair to mf)ri' tlian hold her own ag.'iinst tlw steady drain of her young 
blood incident tf( the great niigrntion to the Far West. 

TIh; site of Ogdensliurg, at (he month of the Osweg.'itchii l,'i\ (i, was select id li\ | hr 
Frencli traders as a favorable location for a setth imiil fur the lint In imikc nl lliiir in- 
terests among the Irf»f|ur)i.s Confederation. 

In the year 18;J1, \vhilr" workmen were ilc.-nin^' ;iway ilrhris prcji.-iratory to laying 



^3 

the keel of the steamer United States (built upon the site of the present E. W. & O. 
Depot), a corner-stone was discovered bearing the following inscription : 

In Nomine t Dei Omnipotentis, 
Huic habitation! initia dedit 
Frans Picquet, 1749.(*) 

A marginal note in pencil in an old volume now in the writer's possession, which 
is the property of L. Hasbrouck, Esq., a venerable citizen of Ogdensburg, states that 
this relic was presented by him to the State at the time when the armory was built, 
and was placed in the structure over the rear or south door, where it may now be seen. 

The old building was used many years afterward by the British upon their occu- 
pation of Canada. 




kn \S\-KnO M\STN 



During the war of 1812, Ogdensburg, then a rising settlement, was captured by the 
British. There is. however, a greater halo of romantic incident surrounding the part 
played by citizens of the town in the abortive "Patriot War " of 1837-'40. 

Upon November 10, 1838, two schooners, whose holds were filled with armed men, 
came down the St. Lawrence upon a fiUbustering expedition in tow of the steamer 
United States. They were under the command of a brave Polish exile named Von 
Schoultz and of General John W. Birge. This force, instead of going ashore under 
cover of the night and surprising Fort Wellington at Prescott, the objective point of 
the expedition, waited until morning, and then proceeded to occupy a massive stone 
windmill about one mile below the town. "Patriots" from Ogdensburg seized the 
steamer United States, and reinforced the party in the mill. Here they were besieged 
during the next five days by British militia and regulars, resulting in the capture of 

(*) Francis Picquet laid tlie foundation of this habitation in tlie name of Almighty God, in 1749. 



64 



the entire party after the at- 
tacking troops had lost very 

heavily in the several at- 
tempts made at dislodging 

the invaders. The prisoners 

were taken to Fort William, 

Kingston, and. with the ex- 
ception of a few minors, wei e 

court - martialled, a large 

number being sent to Van 

Dieman's Land, and the re'-t 

executed. This, in brief, is, 

the story of the •' Battle of 

the AVindniill." The ancient 

tower may be seen upon tlu 

Canadian shore soon aftoi 

leaving Prescott. 
Five miles below Ogdens 

burg is Chimney Island 

where vestiges of French 

fortifications still exist, and 

immediately below are the 

first of the series of rapid 

tlie Galloper, and shorth 

thereafter the Rapide de Plat 

is met. Neither of these swift 

places are especially exciting 

but they serve as a prelim i 

nary to the great Long Sault 

(pronounced long son), whicli 

is next in order. A long reach 

of smooth water intervenes 

however, during which v l 

pass the small A m e r i c a u 

town of Waddington and 

the attractive Canadian "^ ^*^"^" ^^ oMtuseyRCi. 

city of Morri.sbm'g. Just below this place is the battle-field of Chrisler's Farm, w lure 

an engagement occurred in 1813 between Britisli and American forces, ^^ liilc tlic latter 

were marching to the capture of Montreal and Quebec. 

Over upon the American side is Massena Landmg, whence a stage connecting witli 

a steam ferry runs to the fine oM medicinal resort known as Massena tS])rings, which, 

aside from its pictures(|Uc and healthful location, the exc-ellent Hatiield House, and 

good fishing, boasts remarkably strong and 
potent sulphur waters. 

At Uickinsoii's Landing the /\'o//(('.sfl// swings 
alongsi<le of I lie wait ing sister steamer I'viiive 
Arlhiir. ■.iMi\ ;in i iil i 'I'l-haiinr mI' passengers is 
ellected willidiit delay m|- vexatinu. Then the 
/■riiicr. a Im,:i1 will liiiid lor lici- dail,\ lasli of 
breasting the wild surges ol t he i:i|ii(U. I iiins 
in the swift current, and a mile ahead the 
|p.is:-eng('rs see tiie white, stormy waters of tlie 
l-Miig .Sault stretching from shore to shore. 
Now tile real fun begins. TJiere is a siuhlen 
iiush to the monotone of the steamer's jiulsa- 

tions. We .He ill the 'J r;i -• 1 1 ( i T I lie eUlTent. 

Kxtra men are al the wiieel.aiid nlliers are 
alt ill cliarge ol a sii.are tiller. II \<>\i are 





k^&^ 



65 

inclined to be nervous now, remember that steamers have been going down here ever 
since 1840, and no passenger vessel has ever been wrecked in the rapids. 

The first plunge is over a cascade at " the cellar," and is exhilarating. We are 
no sooner into the vast expanse of broken waters than fresh sensations await us. 
Look at the shore! Heavens, how we slide along! Now across our way a vast green 
billow, like the oncoming surge of the ocean upon soundings after a nor'easter, dis- 
putes our passage. It is of the beautiful green where the sun-light shows tlu'ough its 
wedge-like cap that one sees upon the coral beds of Nassau, or at the deep centre of 
the Horseshoe Fall at Niagara, or in drug-store jars. It does not rise and fall, advance 
and recede. It simply stands there forever, a vast wall of water through which we 
cleave our way with a fierce brief struggle, only to meet a second, a third, a fourth- 
like wave beyond. Guide books have falsely told a generation that the Long Sault is 
nine miles in length. It is supposeable that the first guide-book writer was told this 
by a reckless deck-hand, and recording it. has been taken as gospel by every subse- 
quent cribbing guide-book writer who has touched upon the subject. 

The veritable rapids are scarce a mile and a half in length, but there is a continu- 
ance of reasonably swift water for several miles further. The actual fight between the 
Prince and the angry billows is over in less than three minutes. 

The important town of Cornwall, where several large factories are located, is 
shortly seen upon the Canadian shore. From this point to Dickinson's Landing, eleven 
miles above, a canal is built, to enable vessels to return up the river. Similar canals 
are built around each of the rapids, and are excellent examples of thoroughly good 
engineering. 

After leaving Cornwall we bid good-bye to American soil, for here the "com- 
promise line," forming the national boundary just north of the 45th parallel, inter- 
sects the river. 

It is interesting to note, in this connection, that this line exists through a faulty 
original survey. During the administration of Tyler in '42, a boundary commission, 
consisting of Daniel Webster and Lord Ashburton, it was found that a true line on 
the parallel woidd throw several American towns, including Rouses Point, into 
Canada, and it was Avisely arranged to leave the line as originally found. 

Four miles below Cornwall the Indian village of St. Regis is noted upon the right 
shore. The boundary line is said to bi-sect the place. The inhabitants, like all of the 
aboriginal remnants in the French Canadian country, are all devout Catholics, and 
the good cure is the highest authority they know. 

As the good steamer Prince Arthur emerges upon the broad Lake St. Francis, 
dinner is announced, and the reader may safely forego his outlook for a time, as the tran- 
sit of the lake will occuidv an hour and a half at least, as it is twenty-five miles long. 

Over upon the left shore of the lake stands the village of Lancaster, and when the 
river tires of its breathing spell, while loitering in the guise of a lake and resolves to 
be a river once more, it dashes off impetuously just after leaving the village of Coteau 
du Lac, which you have just seen peeping above the trees, and carries us headlong 
down the "Coteau Rapids," which are about two miles long, then the " Cedars," three 
miles, and the " Cascades " of which the Split Rock Rapid is the most formidable and 
dangerous looking. There is enough, indeed, within the score of miles covering this 
portion of the day's experience to afi'ord excitement and interest for a year of ordi- 
nary travel. The village at the foot of the Cascades is Beauharnois, and now a second 
lake is met, as if the river dreaded the final plunge down the famous Lachine. Lake 
St. Peter is about twelve miles across to the village of Lachine. 



TY OP 



QNTREAL. 



The sun sinks in yon western sea of gold. 
Among the isles of amethyst fringed with fire. 
Against whose gloi-y— pmple, clear and cold- 
Stand roof and bridge and cathedral spire. 







HERE'S Mount Royal," says a passenger, 
as we sit upon the forward deck. 

We see in the blue distance its bold 
outline traced against the mellow 
northern sky. the profile of the promon- 
tory, and from its base, a thin, wide 
cloud of smoke drifting away from the 
city. Smoke escaping from a thousand 
chimneys, the funnels of great steam- 
ships, and all the fuel-consuming devices 
of a great industrial centre. 

Mount Royal is hardly less imposing 
than the rugged promontory of Quebec, 
which we are to visit later. 

The village of Lachine, now robbed of 
much of its commercial imj^ortance (for it 
was, before the canal was built, the distrib- 
iitinij; and loading-point for all the vast 
marine trathc of the interior), is now simply a picturesque suburb of the city. Its 
origin is as old as that of the city itself. The hardy discoverers, zealous Jesuits, and 
ambitious leaders who sought to perfect a cordon of outposts that should check botli 
Spanish and Anglo-Saxon progress westward, managed to eara, througli their 
intrigues with the Hurons, Algonquins and Ottawas, and by bad faith Avith the 
Iroquois, tlie liatred of this latter warlike and powerful people, and in the year 1689— 
a terrible item among the long list of alioriginal cruelties then perpetrated, — the pretty 
village was destroyed and its entire population butcliered in a single niglit, except about 
one hundred ])risoners wlio were carried across tlu- river and tortured at the stalce tlie 
following niglit. 

The reader may ask why tlie curious name, La Chine (The China) is apjilied to 
tliis point. It is said that the earlier voyagers believed that the St. Lawrence o[)ened 
a way to the Pacific, and therefore to the Flowery Kingdom. 

From the deck of the steamer the passenger may see tlio bold outline, standing out 
against the sunset, of a huge stone watch-tower, and if clo.se enough the crumbling 
remains of two stone forts, built to protect the settlenicnts along Lake St. Loui.s from 
the savages. 

Onward forges our spee<ly craft, and ere long the trniiblcd waters of Laeliinc are 
seen far ahead, a snowy breastwork across our path. The laUc is again a river. We are 
abreast the village of Lucliinc where the (•:in;il iiom Mont icil r/'/Hn/c/z/.s into tlie St. 
Ljiwrence. The mii<l(iy <Jtta\va pours its inif into tlie pure IpIuc waters in which we 
have voyaged since morning, as the Missouri jiolhites the !Mississip|>i. At the Inxpiois 
village of C'anghnawaga, a hamlet of the remnants of the aboriginal inhahitants, tlie 
pilot comes aboard. The tourists, warned by every writer upon the topic of the 
rapids, throng to tlie starlnmrd as the steamer's paddles cease to revolve, and watch 
with interest the energetic rowing of a couple of Indian bo.ilmen in .1 li.itean. A 
heavily-built, swarthy ni.-i II ii.nMles ,it tluKtcrn. Tie is tlie essence of good nature. 
We are drifting stcidiiy down tow.nd ih.- r.ipiii. Tlic heavy man clambers up the 
guards, the bell sign;il.s " go ahc.id," ;iimI ihc indiiiii pilol t ;i kcs sii prriric roinni;i inl at 



67 

the wheel, assisted by an apprentice Indian, on whom his mantle will fall some day. 
The white steersmen light their pipes and enjoy their respite from duty. Couldn't the 
white men take the Prince down just as well ? Are the Indians really a necessity ? 
Quien sabe. It is the custom of the river, and the passengers remember the incident 
when every other feature of the trip is hazy and covered with the dust of forgetful ness 
that gathers over the events of bygone years. A little while later and we are in the 
vortex. The current grows swift and swifter. A 11 the bosom of the river is covered 
with reefs and rocks. All the mighty outpouring of the stream is pent up in a single 
channel. The boat heads this way and that, then the bottom of the river seems to fall 







out. Down we plunge! and onward, straight toward a rocky islet! Which side? 
Just as destruction seems imminent, the vessel sweeps round to the riglit and shoots 
like an arrow between two sunken ledges. We are through, and may look back up 
the watery hill we have descended, and admire the courage of the men who first 
navigated this wonderful channel. In the slack water just upon the edge of the racing 
current which still bears us on, are Indians fishing placidly from dug-out or birch 

canoes. 

Here it dances and sings, 
Here it pours and it roars, and its wild current flings 
Into spray; here, with grandeur majestic, it sweeps 
O'er its brealsers, and smooth and unbroken it leaps 
From the crest of the low cataract; here it beats 
Into fury along the sharp headlands, retreats 
From its futile attack with the thunders of hate. 



6S 



The once marvelous Victoria Bridge comes into view. In a few moments we steam 
"beneath it and swing around the dangerous shoals that bar the terminus of deep-water 
navigation, and heading up stream are speedily at the lock, within which, as the 
steamer rises to the upper level, the passengers are delivered over to the tender mercies 
of thecoacliies and '-'bus" men. But be not afraid, for there is a uniform rate of 
twenty-five cents for coach fare here, and you will not be swindled. You are no longer 
in the free and glorious domain of Uncle Sam. 

There is a good choice of hotels in Montreal. 

The "Windsor, stately and American-like, stands upon the high land back from the 
business part of the city. The St. Lawrence Hall is down town, and convenient for 
sight-seeing. This house is upon St. James Street. The writer confesses to a pre- 
dilection for the Richelieu, a house upon the Fi-euch pattern, where the gxiests may 
elect to stop upon either of the plans of payment, kno^^^l as the •'American" and 
the •• European." The Albion is another good house. 

The question of hotels disposed of, next in order comes that of attractions. But 
first must come the inevitable general description, and I promise you it shall be as 
brief as possible. 




"Tx^^ivv- 









7. 







«ou■\^Kt^\. 



Montreal claims one hundred ami liliv I lnnisinid souls, in iduml niimlicis. "iK'the 
flame more or less." It has its P"'rencli nuarUr, as well defined as that of Niw Urleans, 
and its Engli.sh quarter, which is, perhaps, more ])roperly rendered as three quarters, 
the line f)f divisifiii l)eing along St. Lawrence Main Street. Tlie active centre of the 
Frencli |m,|,ii1,i1 iwn .surges around Bonsecours Market, a im^;!' .uid stately building 
fronting upon the river, and u|> tlu-ongh Jacipics Carticr Scjiiarc. (Beware how you 
essay tlie u.se of tliis latter name witho\it dui' instruction). Ail tlirougli tills section of 
the city, tin- honest, Hinq)le-ininde<l htihittnits are busy driving their small l)argainK, 
wiling thi'ir jjroduee, and bi-having tln'niselves just exactly as you ni;iy have seen 
their bn-thrf-n in tlie niarl<it-|ilaics of Hritt.iii\ bili;i\c. fill! of cliic. ulili nl' lim,L;ue. 
active and good-naturcil. 

You will step for a nioiiicnt into old Honsc-cours rjnnrli whil 
you wish mementoes to carry aw.iy for your library walls y>n \\ ill lie di 
where ail sorts of genuine Indian and Caiuidian goods may Ui- h.id :ii on 
you would have to ])ay for the same arti'lf^ in (lie hotels. 

A " trophy," smli :is may ]n- inadi up "I ,i t < .Imj.'^^^'nn . a jiair of .snow 



\\ n liiTc, ;iiid if 
iiii'l CI I til stori's 
H'-liall I lie price 



ia<'ros8e 



liats, canoe, how an<l arrtjws, and a lew |i allni- arlidi-s, is worth a |il.icc in any lionn- 



Indian Yillage, SL Regi 




No 5— FROM ST. REGIS TO MONTREAL. 



69 

Upon St. Paul Street, at Jacques Cartier Square, stands the Nelson monument. 
Other writers have commented upon the incongruous fact that the old salt stands with 
his back to the water. As I don't wish to say anything that any other scribbling 
traveler has said, if I can help it, I forbear calling attention to this circumstance. 

You will go to the huge Cathedral. Perhaps you may not particularly care to go 
there, but as you will somehow pass it every time you are "down-town" you may as 
well take it in and get it off of your mind. It is the Notre Dame of Canada, and quite 
as worthy as its French namesake of a call by the regular tourist. 

Its bells are famous, one of them being ranked among the five largest in the world. 
The cathedral is gauged to hold 12,000, but like the American street-car, no man has 
yet been able to estimate its final capacity. 

The west end is altogetJier another city. Formerly some of the best French 
families lived here, but gradually they moved away to the east end, drawn by the 
influences of race, religion, traditions and sympathies. The splendid mansions on 
Sherbrooke Street are occupied by English and Scotch merchants; and the Windsor is 
an American hotel after the best model. But, go where you will in Montreal, it is not 
possible to forget that you are in a Roman Catholic city. A group from the Seminary; 
a procession of Christian Brothers; a girl's school out for a walk, with softly-treading 
nuns quietly guiding them; a church near the Windsor silently taking form in imita- 
tion of St. Peter's; the Hotel Dieu; the enormous and ever-growing establishment of 
the "Scaurs Crises," who care for every form and class of suffering humanity, from 
helpless foundlings to helpless second childhood. Here Rome everywhere declares 
herself, and claims Montreal as her own. 

The stranger who wanders along the business avenues, if observant, will note the 
air of solidity imparted to the business structures. They are largely built of stone, 
and look as though they might endure for ages. 

While the Catholics are largely in the ascendancy here, every denomination seems 
to be well housed in fine and costly structures scattered over all portions of the city. 

McGill university ranks as one of the leading educational institutions of the 
Dominion. Its fine buildings and extensive grounds are located in the upper portion 
of the city. 

The best drive on the list of local tours is that to the summit of the mountain, 
which constitutes, in fact, a public park, the road to and through which is a splendid 
carriage-way, with frequent "coigns of vantage" from which one may look down on 
the busy city and far along the valley where the St. Lawrence River takes its stately 
course. In going to the mountain it is best to make a bargain for a barouche, but for 
local getting about, the light, single-horse carriages are the cheapest. The plan is the 
same as that existing in Havana and the City of Mexico. You simply pay your driver 
his quarter, and when you are ready for another move hail a fresh coach. Somehow, 
our American towns want civilizing in this matter of carriage locomotion terribly. 
The nearest approach to a satisfactory plan in the States is that introduced by the 
Pennsylvania Railroad in its hansoms now familiar in Philadelphia streets. 

Montreal has a heavy marine trade, both upon salt and fresh water. The great 
Allan liners give dignity to the water-front views, and the vessels of half a dozen lesser 
lines are clustered along the wharves. In the matter of river navigation the city has 
great advantages. In addition to the daily service of the American and the Canadian 
(Richelieu & Ontario) lines between this point and the Upper St. Lawrence, there is a 
regular boat every night to and from Quebec, a daily line upon the Ottawa River con- 
necting with the Dominion capital, and local boats to points upon the Lower St. 
Lawrence and the Richelieu rivers. 

The Bonaventure is a "union" depot, and from thence arrive and depart Grand 
Trunk trains, the Central Vermont, Southeastern and other lines. The North Shore 
Line has its depot (Quebec route) two miles out of-town. 

Montreal is a festive town; is very proud of its picturesque battalions of volunteers, 
and takes keen delight in the achievements of its lacrosse and snow-shoe clubs. 

The mid- winter carnival is now a fixed institution; and it is really a fact, that to 
see the city under its most favorable social conditions, one must come here in 
January or February. 



7° 

I believe I have forgotten to record the fact that Montreal is npon an island, being 
separated from the mainland by the Back River, or. as the French prefer to call it. the 
Eiviere des Praii-ies. 

Visitors who want to repeat the voyage do-svn tlie Lacliine Rapid will note the 
advertisements in local morning papers, by wliich it will be seen that a train leaves 
Bonaventixre station every morning for Lachine, connecting there with a steamer 
which makes the nan and brings the excursionist back to the city in time for breakfast. 
The fare is half a dollar. 

In a mental casting around for things unsaid, we must not overlook Fi-eeman and 
his superbly-decorated restaurant, the Delmonico's of Montreal. At Freeman's we 
have more than once swallowed lamb-chops and the illuminated story of Cinderella 
simultaneously. When you are in Rome drop in on the Pope. When in Montreal, 
see Freeman. 




JL_. 



N T0 THE 



.AGUENAY. 




Do-n-n from the North a stream comes f ortli. 

Locked in with Titan walls ; 
The dizzy verge o'ertops the surge, 

The cloud before them falls. 



HE following is clipped by the vrriter from his 
jo-umalistic record of a trip to the Saguenay 
two years ago : 

Two miles out-of-town we discovered the 
"Mile End" station of the Quebec, Montreal, Ot- 
tawa & Occidental Railway (called the "North 
Shore Line " for short), and at 3 p. m. left for 
Quebec. French conductor, French brakes- 
men, French villages, depots and sujjper, every 
bit as French as Brittany. Acres of land a 
half a mile long, and a rod or so wide: primi- 
tive methods, and queer, curving-roofed 
^ houses; dormer windows and wood-encased 
'^ chimneys: roofs painted red or white. AUthe 
steeples were mated— two to a chui'ch — and 
sheathed in bright tin which blazed in the 
evening sun. 

There was plenty to look at, seasoned with 
novelty to us Americans. The land, but for 
the distant hills, suggested the sugar lands of 
Bayou Teche, Louisiana. Sometimes we approached quite near to the broad St. Law- 
rence — ^near enough to count scores of sail and steam craft upon its bosom. 

About 9.30 p. m. found us "holding on for dear life," as the hotel coach slowly 
surmounted the steep roadway outside the walls of queer old Quebec. Other friends, 
who knew of our coming, were on hand at the St. Louis Hotel, so we didn't seem 
so very far from home, after alL 

The morning hardly gave us a glimpse of the famous Terrace and Citadel, before 
we were hurried on board the Saguenay, and were steaming down the river. "What a 
splendid place a steamboat is for the study of character (human and jjomnejl 

Some people are good travelers by instinct, and better ones by training. They 
know how to get the best out of their experiences, and are gifted with enough tact and 
gentility to enable them, if alone, to find congenial acquaintances upon the boat. The 
natural result being, that they find the trip instructive, pleasant, and something to 
recur to with satisfaction in after years. 

There are others whom nature iatended for Crustacea. They retire within invisible 
shells, and neither give nor receive. Nobody gets acquaiated with them, nor do they 
venture any improper enthusiasm as to the scenery. 

The atmosphere in the vicinity of these human icicles is perceptibly chilly. How 
much good a little travel would do these unhappy beings ! It would knock the comers 
off of their angular natures, and show them how small a place they occupy in 
natural economy. 

There are but few such, however: most of the party are bound on a pleasure trip, 
and in for a good time. We touch at Murray Bay and Eiviere du Loup, where are 
crowds of ruddy young Englishmen clad in white suits and hats wound with muslin. 



72 




pretty girls in 
Jerseys and 
Highland caps, 
with a strong 
disposition to 
tiirt. At these 
places we lose 
some of our 
passengers, and 
others take 
their places. 
Then the steam- 
er heads across 
for Tadousac, a 
queer little 
hamlet at the 
mouth of the 
Saguenay. Here another lot of passengers leave us. A handsome hotel [looks out 
upon the broad St. Lawrence, and down upon a little and ancient church. The 
Dominion salmon-hatching establishment is located here. As the steamerlmoves away 
it is already sunset, and a ruddy sky shows in fine contrast above the' massive clifiFs. 
A few of us sit up to see Capes Eternity and Trinity, but the night is very dark. They 
loom up vaguely for a moment, and we content ourselves to wait until the morrow. 

At sunrise we are awakened by a rattling and banging beloAv, as the wharf of Ha 
Ha Bay is depleted of its waiting freight. A half-dozen Indians are bartering with 
tourists for small canoes, baskets of berries, and the usual variety of curiosities which 
are the product of aboriginal injun-uitij. The leading product of Ha Ha Bay seems to 
be blueberries. They are stacked up in cords of small coflin-like boxes, and the sail- 
boats of the mountaineers alongside the wharf are also full of them. 

Chicouthni is a -'sizable" town alnuit twenty miles up the river, and at the end 
of our exploration. 







During the lionr spent ln-n- ;ill li.inds :iic asliorc. si.iiiniii- .ih.iui ilir liilly streets 
in tlHMjueer buckboard-likc rigs wiiich arc tlie fasliinn. S.iIukm -lisln i>~ licre t;tk'<_ a 
Hinaller steamer to go up the river and its tributaries. 



73 

The culmination of our voyage is I'eached when, about noon, we round into "view of 
the two majestic headlands, Trinity and Eternity. How dwarfish our steamer looks as 
it floats in their shadow ! The large pines fringing their summits are but as shrubs in 
appearance. It is difficult to determine which is the nobler of the two, and from what 
standpoint they are best seen. From this scene we turn regretfully, and recall the fact 
that we have forgotten all about dinner. From this point to the debouchure of the 
river at Tadousac, there is a grand succession of rock masses, full of interest for the 
tourist who understands and loves Nature. 

The morning succeeding found us again at the wharf in Quebec. The merry 
crowd of tourists, bag and baggage, rattled away in caleches through the quaint lower 




town, up the steep hill and into Quebec, the walled city, just in time for breakfast. 
All had deserted the ship save a favored trio, who, like Cassabianca, "stuck to the 
craft" and breakfasted with the genial purser, St. Onge. (Even the steamboat men 
are saints in this Arcadian land.) 

When you are obliged to change your boarding-house, make friends at once with 
the new cook. When you take a voyage cultivate the purser. It's the purser more 
than the captain who holds the question of your comfort in his grasp. Pursers, as a 
usual thing, are genuine good fellows, and no steamboat should be without them. 
The popularity of a river or sea-going line depends greatly upon the address and 
tact of the purser. 




ITY 0F 



UEBEe. 




Tlie slanting sun-rays hotly fell, 

"With shadows creeping down ; 
Above us was the citadel, 

Below, the quaint old town. 

ERE is tlie history of Quebec in a uiitsliell : 

In 1535, under the patronage and direction 
of Francis I. of France, the navigator. Jacques 
Cartier. started with three ships upon an ex- 
;:loring voyage, entering the river St. Lawrence 
upon the festival day of the saint of that name, 
and upon the 14th of September reacliing the 
bold i)romontory where the citadel stands, un- 
der the shadow of which he found the Indian 
village of Stadacona, a name popular with the 
people to this day. 

Nearly a century later, in the year 1608, 
Samuel de Champlain appeared upon the scene, 
and Quebec had its real beginning. Champlain 
also found and named the Richelieu River, 
after tlie founder of the trading companj- of 
'•One Hundred Associates."' under whose di- 
rection he operated. He also found the Ottawa 
' "° ~' and the American lake tliat still bears his 

name. He introduced the order of the Recollet Friars into Canada, and these were 
followed quickly by the more powerful and enterprising Jesuits, who toiled with that 
heroic ardor wliich has the mainspring only in faith, among the Indians and settlei'S, 
uniting the clerical ofBce witli that of the explorer. 

In 160o the population of Quebec was but eight hundred souls, and about this time 
Louis XIV., the reigning monarch, assumed control of the colony of New Franco, 
and the trading company lost its prestige. 

France .sent over a series oi intendentes, each ajiparently worse than the last. 
Many of the towns and villages now strung along the St. LaAvi-ence River owe 
tlieir names to those of officers of a veteran regiment sent over by Louis to light the 
Irorjuois. 

Tlien came Frontenac, whose deeds are outlined in another place in our book. 
The liistorj' of Quebec up to tliis ])oint is a record of military establishment, trad- 
ing and proselyting, rather than tlic development of the resources of the soil. While 
the cf>lonies of Great Britain increased their borders prodigiously, the French 
Canadians remained jiitifully weak, witli an attemiated line of posts tliroughout liie 
wliole known Wr-st, and hostile Irocpiois still uiu-omfortal)ly near their villages. 

Wolfe, the English coniinander. rame in 1750 — Wolfe, whose character, ])<)rtrayed 
so vividly in the "Virginians."' has charmed (he readers of a generation. He came 
to extend the dominion of the British crown. Every .school liistory and Canadian 
guide-book tells how Wolfe and liis veteran Highlanders and (irenadiers scaled the 
precipitous heights, and fought upon the Plains of Abraham against the soldiers of 
Montcalm, and the tourist of to-day see.s behin<l the siiperlt Dulferin Tenace a unique 
monument, proliably the only such shaft in the woiM. in .j<>in1 niiiiinry nf llic two 
opjiosing K^nerals who fell ui)on that <lay. Fifteen \<:ir- hiti i. AiipiM, i Im- desl imd 
traitor and fi, tf noire in the history of the Revolutionary pi riml. ( (iniin;; up the vallej' 
'if the Chaudiere, and Montgomery by Lake ('h.-iniplain. j'.iin li in llie siege of the 
city. Montgomerj' was killed ;ii tlie first assault, .iiid Aiimlds .siil)S((|uent efforts 



75 

were abortive. And this is the last time that a foreign foe has stood before the gray- 
gates of Quebec ! What race will next attempt its subjugation, who can say ? 
Possibly the oft-quoted New Zealander of Macauley. Places like Quebec are better 
won, as was old San Marco at St. Augustine, by diplomacy than by powder. 

Quebec is the Gibraltar of America, and its pictui-esque old-world battlements, 
its impracticable streets, its landmarks of history still abundant, and its un- Anglo- 
Saxon ivays, are its best stock-in-trade, for the money brought here and left by 
American tourists foiins a rery considerable portion of its income. The project to 
build a superb hotel, fronting upon the Duffeiin Terrace, which would, beyond a doubt, 
multiiDly by ten the present aggregate of summer visitation, has had a decided and 
probably final set-back. So the visitor raust rest satisfied with the present St. Louis, 
wliich is a good house, provided you can climb stairways. Tiie mere fact, however, 
of uncertain hotel accommodation should not deter the reader who has not seen 
Quebec from including it in a summer tour. The carriage service of the city is cheap 
and good, provided one uses reasonable care in making a bargain beforehand. The 
standard drives are first to the citadel, which is always open to visitors, and where the 
jaunty giiardsmen find the gratuitous duty of piloting the constant stream of visitors 
about the huge fortress a relief to the tedium of gamson life. Next in order is the 
drive to the battlefield of the Plains of Abraham, passing the handsome suburban parks 
of the wealthy classes, then to the Indian village of Lorette, and lastly down the 
beautiful Beauport road to the Falls of Montmorenci. 

Very few travelers go further upon this road than the Fall, which is certainly at 
all times a noble sight. The unfailing stream comes laughing down from the Laui-entian 
hills, and makes a prodigious leap into the very waters of the broad St. Lawrence. 
As you pass down the river en route for Mui-ray Bay or the Saguenay, you will note 
the cataract as it hangs like a snowy curtain in front of the cliff. 

Quebec is located 360 miles from the sea, and 180 miles below Montreal. The 
walled portion is triangular in shape and thi-ee miles in circumference. The wall is 
pierced by five gateways ; three of these communicate with the lower town. St. Louis 
gate, now a beautiful Norman structure, leads to the battlefield, while St. John's gate 
is the outlet to Beauport and St. Roche. The gate by which strangers enter the upper 
town from trains and boats was removed some years ago to facilitate travel. The 
leading attractions within the walls are the LTrsuline Convent, the great Laval Univer- 
sity, the English and French cathedral (Basilica), and above all. the outlook from the 
Dufferin Terrace. 




N T0 



i AM PLAIN. 



Far south we see, in serried ranks, 
The mountains wliere Chateaugay rose. 

And northward note the verdant banks 
Where the grand St. Lawrence flows. 




ilf E Ogdensburg & LakeCham- 
lilain Railroad is the only east 
and west line of travel upon 
Americau soil between the St. 
La^^1•ence River and the Mo- 
hawk Valley, the vast wilder- 
ness of the Adirondacks, 
which is just becoming known 
to the outside world, inter- 
vening to prevent the transit 
of mankind. This line, there- 
fore, extending from the St. 
Lawrence, at Ogdensburg, to 
a junction with the New 
England roads upon Lake 
Champlain, enjoys a heavy 
local passenger and freight 
traffic, which is now greatly 
augmented by the favorable 
arrangements existing for the 
si)ecdy and comfortable 
transit of through passengers 
lirtwi'cii Chicago, Niagara 
I'alls and the Thousand 
Islands, to Lakes Champlain 
and George, Saratoga, Albany 
-.«MtKvioKx and New York (via the Dela- 

wai'f tV I linls'jii ( anal ( 'o.'s Line), ami with I lir iiiniiiilain and seaside rcsorls of New 
P-^ngland generally. 

Hegardefl locally, the " O. & L. C," as it is poimlarly calleil, has niueh to attract 
travel over its rails. There are several jioints iijton llie line, noral)ly Norwood and 
Maione, from which parties u.sually go into the woods idtlic iiorllurn .Xdirondacks, of 
whieli many of tlie well-known peaks are visible from lln' lalileland alcmL; wiiicli the 
njafl is buill. To t he nnrliiward. too, the great valley of t lie SI. Lawrence, ninehofit 
densely w(joded and doLteil with neat villages, is iu view for liours, the far-away 
Htream Hhining like silver in tlie snnli;^Hit. 

The road frccpientlj' traverses tin; numerous monnfain trilmtaries, whieli ])our 
their |)iire cold waters into the greater St. Lawrence, and winch here hrcik through 
the rocky iiarrier that im|)i'd(!S tiieir eour.se, forming canons ilcc|i iitid wild. Ut such 
formation is the (^liasm of the f 'liateang ly, whieli is as well worth .1 visit as either 
Watkin's (Jien or Ausable. 

There are, tf)f), many hnliliiinj; mineral sjirings hid<lcn .aw.ay in these wild woods, 
tliat environ the devious streamlets, yet unknown to I'.imc .iini nnsoii-hl ii\ c.iiiiions 
invalids, which future generations will liud and ntili/c . 

Ma-ssena Springs, which give forth strong, black -Ml|,liiir water. lia\c Imih known 



77 



and improved for nearly half a century. A stage connects for this place from 
Norwood. Massena Springs is located upon the Grass River, about four miles from 
the St. Lawrence. One large hotel, the Hatfield House, and several boarding-houses 
are located here. 

Good boating, fishing and driving, together with excellent society and facihties 
for all the minor forms ot diversion, attract many families annually, aside from that 
numerous class for whom the waters are an undoubted necessity. 

The through sleeping-car service between Chicago and Portland, via this route, 
with only one change, has just been inaugurated upon this line, and should do much 
to tempt an increase of travel from New England resorts westward, via the Thousand 
Islands to Niagara Falls, and from points West into the picturesque realm of Northern 
New England. 

Malone is the prhicipal tov^n en route — a liandsome and prosperous place. It is 
often called the gateway of the northern Adirondacks. The distance to Paul Smith's 
being 35 miles ; to Meacham Lake, 25 miles ; to Loon Lake, 29 miles ; State Dam, 12 
miles. The roads are good. The principal hotel at Malone is the Ferguson House. 

At Moira, the traveler will notice the train of the new Northern Adirondack Rail- 
road which leads southward into the upper lake region of the Adirondacks. It is now 
completed nearly to 
Paul Smith's, a popu 
lar place which has 
received considei- 
able notoriety in the 
magazines. 

A good stage route 
leads on to the Sai- 
anac Lakes and con- 
nects through with 
the groups of hotels 
around Mirror Lake 
Lake Placid, and in 
the Keene Flats 
Valley. 

This route affords 
the best means of 
reaching that excel- 
lent haven foi 
sportsmen, invalids 
and mountain trav- 
elers generally, the 
Saranac Lake House, 
which is kept in 
good style by Mr. M. 
B. Miller. 

This hotel is a 
large and well-built 
house, fronting im- 
mediately upon the 
lake, well provided 

with good boats and reliable guides. It is hardly necessary to say that the fishing 
and gunning to be found here is not excelled by any point iu the mountains. 

Western tourists who are contemplating a tour of the mountains cannot do better 
than to enter by this route, and if bound further East, to leave the mountains via 
either the wonderful and picturesque Wilmington Notch beside the dashing waters of 
the Ausable River to Ausable Chasm, or through Keene Flats and via Elizabethtown 
to Westport upon Lake Champlain. 

At Chateaugay passengers bound for the Merrill House, upon Chateaugay Lake, 
leave the train. This favorite resort is near the north end of the lake, commanding 




KH KQ\TO^iDXC\<> ^U\Q\n^R'< 



78 

a superb view. The house is completely furnished. There are many romantic points 
in the vicinity reached by good roads. The connection is by steamer Adiroudaclx from 
Chateaugay to Rogersfield and tlience by stage. The stage road connects with tlie 
Chateaugay railroad through to Plattsburg. 

At Rouses Point the lower waters of Lake Champlain come into view. Here there 
is a liberal interchange of passengers, many going southward via the Delaware and 
Hudson Canal Company's R. R. to Lake George and Saratoga, and others who have 
come on from Montreal going eastward to New England points. 

Rouses Point is a stopping place for many tourists who wish to fish in the lake. 
The AVindsor Hotel here is in all respects a desirable place to "'bide a wee."' At 
Maquani Bay. just beyond Swantou. the east-bound train meets the track of the St. 
Johnsbury and Lake Champlain R. R. 

At Maquam Bay the traveler will find the large and beautifully environed Hotel 
Chami)lain. This charming i)lace is also reached by the steamer Macjuam from 
Plattsburg. Everytliing which will conduce to the pleasure and comfort of the most 
fastidious tourist will be found at this place. 

The route over the Green Mountains to St. Johnsbury and thence through the 
majestic White Moimtains, passing Mount Washington and White Mountain Notch to 
Portland, affords one of the most impressive and delightful journey's to be found upon 
the continent. 

It should be stated that this season a through sleeping-car system between Chicago, 
Niagara Falls and Portland has been put into service by this series of railroads. 






^^^^^fm^mmm 




TY 0F 



■^INGSTeN. 




INGSTON, Ontario/ is a pleasant 
city and one of the most en- 
tertaining plans for " putting 
in " an odd day at the Thous- 
and Islands is to organize a 
little party and make a trip 
to this point. 

This may be done by leaving 
upon the St. Laivrence on 
her up trip early in the morn- 
ing, connecting at Cape Vin- 
cent with the steamer Maud, 
which will bring the excur- 
sionists to Kingston at noon. 
In order to save time it is well 
to take dinner on board (un- 
less the party has been so provident as to bring lunch with them), there will then be 
ample time to "do" Kingston in one of the many carriages which will be found at 
the wharf. 

The harbor of Kingston affords a most imposing and effective picture. In the 
midst of the scene a storm-washed Martello tower rises from the water, and beyond it 
is a gTanite battlement, upon the mainland behind which rises the shapely form of the 
City Hall. The public buildings of Kingston are all excellent examples of architecture. 
Across the channel is Wolfe Island, which is connected with the city by a ferx-y. 
Upon a ijrominent hill to the right is the large defensive work known as Fort Wilham 
Henry, and near it the Military College, which is the "West Point of Canada. There is a 
decided military air to Kingston, due to this fact. The main line of the Grand Trunk 




C\1N OV '(".NUG.STOU. ?R0» ?ORT W\LUK» HtHRX 



So 



Haihvay passes this point, about two miles from town, and connects with tlie wharves 
.by a branch line. Upon market-days the market-place at the rear of the City Hall is 

a very lively place. 

Upon the sloping 
ground to the west a 
pretty park is laid out, 
aud beyond this are the 
extensive grounds aud 
buildings of Queens 
College, one of the most 
popvilar and progressive 
of the great educational 
institutions of Canada. 
Still nearer the harbor 
stands the hospital. The 
large peiiitentiary insti- 
tution is also open to 
~ — ' -- visitors. 

■''''^''°'' The stranger will 

doubtless be especially struck with the many beautiful homes which border the 
suburban avenues, as well as the general cleanliness of the city. 

There are several good hotels, of which the British American is the largest and 
best Icnown. 

Taken all together, under favorable skies, the tourist who is not blase with travel 
.will enjoy such a trip should he act upon the hint here thrown out. 





g)He; ^ew 



SWEGO 



eUTE. 




The low moon's level wake across the waves 

Leaps into splendor where they fall and rise 
In silver-breasted hillocks, shadow-caves 

And undulating whirls, that cheat the eyes. 

vHANGES are the order of the day in channels of travel. 
A new and varied means of reaching the islands from- 
New York is inaugurated this season by the New York, On- 
tario & Western Railway. 

It takes the excursionist, by night express, upon new and 
elegant sleeping-cars to Oswego, and thence, upon the new 
and commodious steamer Ontario, via Kingston, to Alexan- 
dria Bay and intermediate points. 

Passengers leaving New York on the night express at 6.50 p. m. from Cortlandt and 
Desbrosses streets Ferries (Pennsylvania Railroad), and New York, Ontario & West- 
ern station at foot of West 42d Street, at 7.00 p. m., arrive in Oswego at 7.45 a. m.. 
This train runs every day, including Sunday. The steamer leaves on arrival of train, 
reaching Kingston at 12.30 p. m. and Alexandria Bay at 2 p. m. Meals are served on 
the boat. 

Returning, the steamer leaves Alexandria Bay at 3 p. m., touching at Clayton and 
Kingston, arriving at Oswego at 11 p. m. 

Those who prefer a day ride across the State of New York can take the day express- 
train, leaving New York at 9.00 a. m., arriving in Oswego at 10.30 p. m., and take the 
steamer on the following morning. 

The new steamer is in every respect well adapted for the service she is to perform,, 
and will not 
only prove pop- 
u 1 a r w i t 1 1 
through trav- 
elers but will 
attract large 
numbers of lo- 
cal excursion- 
ists from all 
points in Cen- 
tral New York. 
The New 
York, Ontarici 
& Western Rail- 
way penetrates 
and traverses 
much of the 
richest and 
most attractive 
of the domain 
of the Empire 
State. The main 
line and branch- 
es reach a score 
of pleasant 
country refuges 
from summer 




V\^MtRSlR^^N TUUHt\.. 0V\ IHt H. '■( .. 0. 



heat, some of them well-know-n and poi)ular resorts. People at the islands.wishing to 
visit Kingston, can leave upon the up boat, enjoy a full evening and comfortable night 
at the British American Hotel, a carriage ride in the morning, and return upon the 
steamer leaving Kingston at noon. 




This route will alsn afford business men in the city of New York, wlio can only leave 
upon Saturday night, an opportunity to speuda part of Sunday and all of Monday at 
the islands, thus losing but one day from business. It will, too, afford a good connec- 
tion from the West with tlie Grand Trunk Railway at Kingston. 

Liberal excursion rates are announced, wliich sliould tempt large numbers to visit 
tills region, who are as yet strangers to its beauties. 



t:S 




^ETR0SPEeT AND PReSPECT. 



^^^^ 




Retrospect is a haze, dimly observed at the first, increasing 
as the day grows on, and mellow with sunset tints in 
the evening of life, through which the thorny places 
that have impeded us seem like pleasant oasis ; the 
pitfalls but niole-burrows ; and the rough hills we have 
climbed in our youth are faintly discerned as smooth 
^ ,, and gentle declivities. 

Retrospect plays an important part in the pleasm-es of 
spending a portion of each year upon the grand and 
changeless St. Lawrence. It is the memory of happy days in other years when the 
picture of care-free hours has included our warmest friends, the whole framed with 
the exquisite environment of the islands, which solaces us for the cold and cheei'less 
days of winter which must intervene before we can again take up this ideal habit of 
life ; for in i-eflecting upon it, we may please ourselves with the thought that these 
things may come again and are not altogether visions of the dead past. 

It is said that the final words of that genial and popular writer. Dr. Holland, who 
died in October, 1881, after a joyous summer at " Bonnie Castle," related to his life 
here, which had extended through five summers. '"It is to me," he said, "the sweet- 
est spot on earth." He then went on to speak of the constant, all- winter longing he 
felt, almost counting the days to the approach of the time when he could escape the 
weariness, or as he expressed it, the "incessant grind," of the city to this delightful home. 
Dr. Holland is also credited with the mot: " We stay in New York but we live 
upon the St. Lawrence. 

It is true that one is not always exempt from discomforts and vexations; all days 
in the calendar are not in red letter. There are rainy days here, and sometimes we 
catch no fish. No picture can be effective without its due proportion of shadow. In 
retrospective mental pictures of our life here, however, we always forget these 
minor troubles and rest content in the serene present — 

" When death seems far away," 
while it lasts, or look joyfully toward June, when we may renew our halcyon days. 

" Fair St. Lawrence ! What poet has sung of its grace 
As it sleeps in the sun, with its smile-dimpled face 
Beaming up to the sky that it mirrors? What brush 
Has e'er pictured the charm of the marvelous hush 
Of its silence, or caught the warm glow of its tints 
As the afternoon wanes, and the even-star glints 
In its beautiful depths '? 

All indications point toward a brilliant future for the island region and the tour 
of the river. There seems a steady and reliable increase in the percentage of visita- 
tion each year. Every stranger who has stayed long enough to learn the rudiments of 
life hereabouts comes back when he can, and brings his friends. This army of recruits 
which will aid in the further beautifying of the Thousand Islands by constant addi- 
tions to the cottage population will be vastly reinforced if the interests most concerned 
continue to aid the publishers of this work, who may justly claim in the establishment 
of the " American Line" of steamers, the issue of this book, and their efiicient adver- 
tisement of the claims of the river to tourist patronage all over the United States, a 
hearty mead of support from every individual who cares for the prosperity of the 
region. 



c^^he; 



NGLERS 



Q 



8S©eiATI0N 



OV 1V\L ST. LK\WR^\AC£ H\MLR. 




" Give me thine angle, we'll to the river, there, 
My music playing far off, I will betray 
Tawny-finn'd fish; my bending hook shall pierce 
Their slimy jaws." 



I HERE are some hopeful signs in these latter clays of intelligent organization 
against the profligate Avaste wrought by the ignorant and vicious in 
the natural resources of our country. 

Not only are the remnant of our wocdlauds, which alone stand 
between us and drought, to be cared for, and the axeman, the char- 
coal-burner, the dam-builder, and other delving gnomes to be driven 
from their haunts, but it is now decreed that the white savage who 
has these many years spread his nets and built his weirs unrebuked, 
is to be routed from our streams. 

For the purpose of aiding in the full administration of the law 
relating to fishing as far as it applies to the upper St. Lawrence River, 
an organization of prominent gentlemen was formed at Utica upon 
March 11th, 1884, to be known as the Angler's Association of the St. 
Lawrence River. 

The following officers were elected as a Board of Managers: 
President, John J. Flanagan, Utica, N. Y. ; First Vice-Presi- 
dent, Daniel Pratt, Jr., S^Tacuse; Second Vice-President, William 
Story. Albany: Corresponding Secretary, W. W. Byington, Albany: 
Recording Secretary. Cliarles H. Ballou. Utica : Treasurer. Gardiner 
;M. Skinner. Clayton. 

Executive Committee: John H. Quinby. Cliairman, Albany: 
Myron P. Busli. Butfalo ; E. P. Olmsted. Rochester; Tlieo. Butterfield, Utica: 
H. D. Diliaye, Syracuse; Dr. J. H. Brownlow. Ogdensburg; William Erisbie, New 
York. 

Advisory Counsel, Hon. Franklin M. Danaher, Albany. 

The immediate and practical outcome of the meeting was the enrollment of a 
large number of tlie summer residents and many permanent citizens in the associa- 
tion, and the appointment of Mr. Wm. N. Steele, of Clayton, as special game protec- 
tor to carry on the luimane and important work of clearing the river of nets and pur- 
suing those guilty of illegal lisliing, which was so well l)egun \>y (lif State game pro- 
tector Leonard, of Ogdensburg. last season. 

Tlie association desires thai ail gentlemen shall enroll themst'lvt's who are residents 
here either permanently or during tlie suniiiier months, and who value in any degree 
the liigh reputation of the Thousand Islands as an angling re.sort. The initiation fee 
is if'j.OO, and dues iJio.OO annually, which should he sent, togetlicr wilh aiii>licati()n for 
a member's ticket, to Mr. W. W. Byington. ol Albany, or to any of Ih.' oDicers emnn- 
erated. 

In conin'clioii wilh th<- i<'i)orl of proceedings issued by the associal ii>n. an excel- 
lent article "concerning hi.ick bass." is published which is rcilainiy wmlh tlir atten- 
tion of every one who handles a rod upon the river. 



CONCERNING BLACK BASS. 
Afr. Prenidenl and Cicnilrtiieii of the Amjlern'' As-<n ■i'llinn nj' II, 
— While your worthy corroHj)oiuling secretary ciiuld ii,i\e ,isk( 
more competent to "prepare a paper in regard to liie ii.il.itsot i he h 
ouH means of f-atehing thetn by angling, the baits used, am! ihi|ila< 



,S7. I.iiirrcncc River: 

many .anglers far 

l< hass, the vari- 

w here they are 



85 

to be found at different seasons of the year," he could not have asked one who is a 
greater admirer of the good and game qualities of this fish, which is destined to stand 
in the not far-away future, if it does not already, at the head of the list of game fishes 
that are to be found in the greater area of the waters of our State. Long may the 
glorious salvelinus fondnalis be spared to us by the exertions of Anglers' Associations, 
like your own, to enforce just laws, and a liberal State government to provide the fry 
by artificial means. But the black bass has even now, in many sections, invaded the 
haunts of this patrician beauty, and he is energetically and constantly seeking new 
fields. He is the embodiment of independence, and wherever he finds a home he lo- 
cates to stay, provided the murderous netter, and the worse spawning-bed thief leaves 
him unmolested, for he fears no fish that swims, and is the only one of our so-called 
game fish that guards and cares for its young. In this year of grace, 1884, the black 
bass is pre-eminently the game fish of the people. The trout streams — greatly dimiu- 
ished in volume — still run or trickle through the farm lands of our sires and grand- 
sires, but the trout took their departvire soon after the "wood lot" was cleared, or 
remain only in story. Trout and progress are, in a measure, incomj)atible. Naturally 
secluded in their habits, the constant hacking of the lumberman's axe, and the screech 
of the locomotive wdiistle, jar upon their sensitive neiwes, and they retreat before civi- 
lization and the modern savage — he of the net and spear, — and are now only found, or 
mostly found, in places that are inaccessible to the mass of the people, either by reason 
of the distance to the favored location, or the expenses necessary for comfortable so- 
journ in these remote haunts, or lack of knowledge of the comparatively few profit- 
able fishing waters, or want of time for an extended journey, or all combined. The 
black bass, on the contrary, fears only the net and spear, for he is progressive himself, 
and the steamers and sailing craft on our lakes and rivers are his familiars, and he is 
on good terms with the mule-propelled vessels in the great ditches, yclept canals. He 
is a thorough Yankee and proud of every acre of this great " land of freedom," that 
gave him birth, and he is a game fish, whether found in the great lakes and rivers or 
small ponds and streams, for he is equally at home in the still waters of one and the 
rapid current of the other. The latter, however, heightens his game qualities, so that 
therein he is seen at his very best. But a species of fish that produces young in still 
water that will, when two and one-quarter inches long, impale themselves on the 
hooks of a trolling spoon in their efl'orts to swallow it, requires very little heightening 
of game qualities. I have thus far spoken of the black bass without other distin- 
guishing descriptions, but as there are two species of this dusky fish, it may be well to 
separate them. I trust the veteran anglers of this association will bear with me while 
I briefly note a few of the marked differences between the small-mouthed black bass — 
the Micropterus dolomieu — and the large-mouthed black bass the Micropterus sal- 
moides — the adjective in each case fitly describes the mouth. In the former the max- 
illary bone or mouth does not extend back to a vertical line drawn through the pos- 
terior part of the eye; while in the latter it reaches to and passes such a vertical line. 
The small mouth has also smaller scales, there being eleven rows of scales between the 
lateral line and the dorsal fin, while the large mouth has but eight rows of scales be- 
tween the same points. The former again has seventy-five to eighty scales along the 
median line, and the latter sixty-five to seventy. The scales of the small mouth are 
much smaller on the oi^ercle, breast and back of the neck than on the sides of the fish, 
and on the cheeks they are minute. The scales of the large movith are little, if any, 
siualler on the breast, back of neck and gill covers than on the sides of the body. The 
notch between the spinus and soft-rayed dorsal is deeper in the large mouth than in 
the small mouth. As to the game qualities of the two species there is a difference of 
opinion. Some anglers hold that pound for pound there is no difference in their activ- 
ity when on the hook. Others contend that the large mouth is not for a moment to 
be compared to the small mouth as a game fish. Of those who hold the latter view 
are two learned members of the medical profession, well known as angling writers, 
each having an experience with rod and line of more than half a century. One says, 
in a personal letter : "The big mouth smells and tastes of the muck; and we do not 
fish for them." The other writes : " I do not bother with the big mouth, for they will 
not fight. When hooked they give a flirt, open their mouths and come in like a log 



86 

of wood." The author of •• The Book of the Bhit-k Bass " champions the cause of the 
big mouth, and considers him the peer of the small mouth. Some years ago. a promi- 
nent fish culturist. in writing me about the black bass of certain waters, said it was 
barely possible that they were a cross between the large and the small mouth, but I 
have never been able to gather any evidence that the two fish would cross; on the con- 
trary, there is every reason to believe they will not, even when the two varieties are 
confined in circumscribed waters. The I'ecord of the experiments in black bass propa- 
gation by Major Isaac Arnold, Jr., U. S. Army, is very interesting, and I quote the fol- 
lowing from it : "The black bass — both species confined together in a small pond — 
hatched out by the thousand, and I think there will be more in a few days. The 
young fish are all healthy, but they eat each other. Yesterday, my foreman, in less 
than fifteen minutes, saw nine of the young fry swallowed by fish of apparently the 
same size. Tlie large mouths seem to do the greater part of this work. Each day the 
number of this year's fry gi-ows less, as the strong ones destroy the weaker. The first 
hatchings are now nearly three-quarters of an inch in length, and can probably protect 
themselves." Fi-om the dates given I judge that the small fish referred to were about three 
weeks old. The large mouth thrives in waters with mud bottom, wherein are rushes, 
reeds and flags; but the small mouth delights in clear, cold water, T\-ith a bottom of 
rocks, gravel and clean sand, or i-esorts, during the heat of August, to the long, fine 
grass in deep water. The large mouth, if surrounded by as favorable conditions as to 
habitat as the small mouth, might be a more vigorous fighter than he is by many sup- 
posed to be, but I shall hereafter speak only of the small mouth. In coloring, the black 
bass varies from a pale green to almost l)lack, growing lighter from the dark black to 
the dusky white belly, and they are spotted, mottled and barred, transversely or lon- 
gitudinally. I have also seen them when they appeared almost white in the sun as 
they leaped from the water. Color, however, is a very fallacious guide. If a nmnber 
of black bass of various colors, or shades of color, are confined together alive, they will 
all become, in a short time, of the same hue, and the color will be like that of their siu-- 
roundings. The change takes i^lace evidently at the will of the fish, and it is part of 
a wise provision of nature that enables them to thus cloak themselves by assuming 
a hue in harmony willi their abode for the time being. They spawn in running water 
earlier than in the still waters of a lake. In rivers they generally spawn in May or 
early in June; hut in lakes or ponds tliej' are on or near their nests with their young 
far int(j July; and last season J saw them with their fry early in August, and lieard of 
them on tlieir beds as late as the twenty-first of tlie same moutli. But lastseason, they 
were, for.some unknown rea.son, unusually dilatory in attendingtotheirdomestic duties. 
T)ie spawn of tlie black l)a3s is surrounded by a gelatinous fluid that causes it to adhere 
to the stones or gravel of the spawning beds in ribbon-like strings; and for this reason 
the ba.ss cannot be spawned with profit artificially, and there is no necessity for at- 
tempting it. They only recjuire to Ije left umnolested at the breeding season to tlirive 
and iiiiilliply. At tliis sca.smi tliey refuse all i'ani]. but they l<(('|i tlieir beds swe])t and 
dusted. ,iiiil '|iiiikly remove any foreign substaiiic tliat may fall iijion them. The j)()t 
fi.shtr avail.s iiimscif of liis knowledge of their cleanly liahits and drops a hare liooU or 
liooks into tlie nest: at once tlie bass takr-s it into its iiioutli to cany it from the bed 
and is ruthlessly snatched out ol tin- walcr. Il is (lii> iicraiious pra'l ice t iiat doesni(,ri' 
to <lestroy our Idack ha.ss than any oilier means used hv lliose w lio have n > fear before 
their eyes of the law or an hereafter. Thousands of lisli are destroyed, while a few 
mature ba.HS. unfit for food, :irr- thus cnielly killed. I lia\e always to curb my pen 
when writing of this Vile miiiiler and I li.ise \\||,, ,N, il. ,\ li-^lilhat all'nrds such -raiid 
sport will be allowed hy all liouorahle men a hare moiitli, or such a matter ol time, in 
which to jiroiluee their young in peace. The spawning of a ]»air of ltla<k hass e.xteiidK 
over twf> »ir three days, ami I he parent fish remain with I heir \ miidl'^ iitil il they are leu 
days or two weeks ol<l. and the fry prey up-m eaeji ,.t hei iinlil lhe\ antwoor three 
week.s ohl. Their cannibalistic proclivit ies cease when they lia vegaiiied a litllr discre- 
tion, but their |)UgnaeiouH (pi.ililies urow with their growth. .\ l)la<l< hass will van- 
quish a |»ike <>{ a much larger -i/.e i l.an hiinseif by swimming swill 1\ under I he enemy 
and cutting him across the hellv with a rigi<lly erect ilnr-.a! lin. The \>\:\rk l>ass gn.ws 
rapiflly under f.ivorable conditions of water and l'<iod. and leacjies maturity at three 



87 

years of age. Only a few years ago a black bass of six pounds was considered to have 
attained the maximum weight, but more recently small-mouthed bass have been 
caught of eight pounds in weight for a single fish. Parenthetically, let me say that 
we have it on good authority that the big mouth has been taken in Florida waters 
weighing eighteen pounds. The larger fish— small mouth— are so extremely fat, how- 
ever, that they do not display the activity of a two and one-half or three-pound fish. 
These weights are, as a geueral thing, the size of fish that gives the angler tlie most 
sport when on the rod. Judging from personal experience, the largest bass are caught 
at an early hour in the morning— the earlier the hour, if it be daylight, the better the 
fishing or catching. When the black bass have spawned in the shallow of a river, they 
move seemingly in a body to swift water on the foot of a fall, if such there be, and are 
there caught in numbers in the down-pour or boil of the rapids. After a very few days 
in this very rough water, which, perhaps, reinvigorates them, after the exhaustion at- 
tendant upon spawning, they fall back and disjierse, to be found just at the foot of the 
rapids, behind some boulder in mid-stream that forms a little eddy, and along the 
shores, just in the edge of deep water. When the season advances and the water be- 
comes warmer, they rest in the deep pools and eddies, and with the approach of win- 
ter, they retire to broken rocks or submerged logs in deep, Stillwater, there to become 
torpid and hibernate, imtil released by the warm sun of spring. After severe cold 
weather in the fall, a few days of warm sun will awaken them so that they will take 
the hook, if it is let down upon their winter quarters. During the fishing season they 
lie in wait for small fish just off the rocky shores or sand points, where the water 
deepens rapidly, or near a weedy shoal that harbors bait fish. They make a rush into 
the shoal shore water or weeds, and grasp their prey and return to deep water, only to 
repeat the operation as often as hunger demands. 

Rocky shoals in mid-water are also favorite places for black bass in June and 
early July, and there they may be found nearly the whole day, as the water is com- 
paratively shallow. These are the places and this is the time for fly-fishing in lakes 
and deep rivers. Nevertheless, the bass will come on to the shoals to get food at morn- 
ing and evening during the entire summer, so that a little fly-fishing may be had at 
feeding time, although one must be prepared for many disappointments. In September 
and October the bass are moving about in an aimless sort of fashion, and may be on 
the shoals, shores, off the sand points, or in deep water, or in all of these places. This 
is the time to catch the largest fish, and they are in prime condition. Let one catch a 
black bass in a clear, cold lake, and he thinks it about the most vigorous fish to be 
found in fresh water, but when he catches one of the same fish in the current of a rapid 
river, he discovers his mistake, for river bass afford the finer sport. This is owing, in 
a measure, to the fact that the swift water, sunken boidders and possible snags add to 
the chances of the bass to escape. Therefore, the angler's satisfaction is greater if he 
succeeds in saving his fish after a closely contested fight in which the chances are 
nearly equal. A pound bass may afford more pleasure in the catching than one of 
twice the weight. To quote my own words, used when writing on the black bass on 
another occasion ; '• It is the play that this fish affords that warms the cockles of an 
angler's heart, not the fish itself; and as one looks back over other days, it is the gamy- 
hard-fighting fish that rise uj) in one's memory like mile stones along a pathway 
Greater fish there may be between, but they live only as so many pounds and ounces, 
and occasion no thrill, no tremor of the muscles, no increased beating of the heart, no 
particular joy or exhilaration at the retrospect, except that they may have beaten some 
other fellow's fish. If the mere pounds and ounces lived, there can be no thrill of 
pleasure at the remembrance, for there never was one; nothing but— pounds and 
ounces." I have had excellent sport catching black bass in the autumn when the water 
was covered at an early hour in the morning with a dense fog, and in no single instance 
has such a morning failed of good results. But one has to choose, I am informed by a 
female member of my family, between the danger of malaria and a good score. I 
can say that to date I have not suffered from malaria because of exposure in fishing. 

At the season when the bass are roving, I have had splendid returns from baiting 
certain fishing places. For instance, I save all cray-fish that die on the hook during 
an afternoon's fishing; and just before leaving the lake or river, I throw them into the 



water, at the best fisliing jilaces: the next morning I fish these points and again bait 
them for evening. The baits nsed for bass are many, including the artificial fly for 
casting and for trolling, the trolling spoon or spinning bait, the minnow gauge, with 
live minnow, and the artificial trolling minnow: the live bait, including all small fish 
which are classified as minnows, and small perch, which are best of all. particularly 
for large bass; the grasshopper and cricket, live frogs, craw-fish or cray-fish, dobsons 
or belgranite, in both the black and white state, and the common earth wonn. In still 
fishing, a dead bait is useless, and the sooner it is taken from the hook, and a fresh. 
lively bait substituted, the better. Dobsons and cray-fish. both excellent bait when 
native to bass waters, are indifferent or worthless in waters where the bass are not ac- 
customed to feeding on them. In two large lakes in this State is good bass fishing. 
In one, the grasshopper is a prime bait, and tlie cricket is of second importance : and 
and in the other the reverse is the case. Around the first lake, hoppers are moi'e 
plenty than crickets : and around the second, crickets are more plenty than the hop- 
pers. I think the greatest pleasure is derived fi-om casting the artificial fly, and per- 
haps the next best mode is casting the minnow. Trolling or still fishing is much, if 
not most, generally practiced. In trolling with artificial flies, two. three or four flies 
of a large, gaudy pattern, are used on a single leader that terminates in a small fluted 
trolling spoon on a small minnow gang, baited with a minnow. Black bass are very 
capricious, in some waters taking a certain bait with aviditj^ one day, and refusing it 
utterly the next. Of live baits, the minnow is the standard for the season through, al- 
though at times in the autumn the cray-fish or frog is better. In trolling with flies it 
is necessary to weight the leader and sink the flies when the bass are in deej) water in 
August. The largest bass I ever caught in a lake wJiere I have fished more or 
less for twenty-five years, I took on a pike gang that was trolled in forty feet of water, 
with an eight-ounce sinker, for pike. — E. Lucius. 

One great wi-ong to the bass fisliing is the trolling of the shores of lakes and rivers 
for pike with gangs at a time wlien the bass are either on or leaving tlieir beds, and 
are still about the shores with their fry. Many bass are thus caught and the gang in- 
jures the fish, so tliat If they are returned to tlie water but few can recover. The truth 
is, the bass are not often returned to the water when so taken: tlie fisliermau argues 
that the bass will die anyway, and he may as well keej) them. Another wrongisdone 
in retaining small bass. Tlie law says that it is unlawful to catch l)lack bass of one- 
half pound or uiHl<r. but the limit shouM lie a pnuiKl. for bass are so voracious tliat 
little ones of an ounce or two will bite a hook, and iiuiny of less than half a pound are 
necesiuarily injured in taking tliem from the hook, and in hundreds of cases there is no 
I)retense of returning undersized bass to the water. If the limit in weight was one 
pound, tliere would be less excuse for a person to keep a two-ounce bass, thinking it 
weighed eight ounces. Many anglers now refuse to basket black bass that weigh less 
than sixteen ounces. The exami»le is good, but the troubU' is that these gentlemen do 
not fish with the jnoplc who Iceej) tlie fingerlings. The province of the Anglers' Asso- 
<-ia(ion is U> educate the ]ieo|ile in the way of all lc;;i(imate means of angling, as well 
as to enforce existing laws that foster our game li^li: .ind a strikirii; iiroul <if the great 
good that can l>e done by an association like yinir o\\ ii. is I he letter in a lecent impres- 
sion of the Utica rj/wf^rrrr to your president from a lish ili ;iler. suggesting co-opera- 
tion in this gran<] work of reforming exisfing evils. Tlic Idler of the gentleman re- 
terred to touches one of the ;,'-re.it roots of 1 lie ni;il 1<'i-. .-inii I he incduiplislinienl of 1 lie 
suggestions therein will In- ;i ;_t,iiii1 \\iir]< in il--ell. fur whicli tin' ;i n;^ii ng lirol lierliood 
will ri.se up ami call y.n M. ^ e,i A. N. CIIK.NKY. 

As many piscatorial ly-inelinei I peisouseonie to i he i i\ er- iinpio\ nhd w it h I he proper 
apjiliancf'H for bass fishing or trawling, the \vrit<'r believes that he \\ ill do siieli readers 
a service by callirni attention lo tin exeellenee. both in reKai<l ^" lini^h .mil st renglli, 
as well as the cheapness, of the rnij, 1 111 iiiil onl hy Mi. I'leil. I ii\ im . ot I t i( a. Tin se 
rods are ma'U; from lance-wood l)eth,ilj;ir:i ;iiiil -jdil liamlioo. imd nie nnexcelled by 
any of the much higher-priced goods olleriil by oiIk r iii,iini(;iel iirers. 

Mr. Ci. M. Skinner, of Clayton, is known iipon the river .is .-i niiiker of (he best 
and most seductive spoona ever spun It 'tore (he ii<i-( ol ;i lnin^iy pike. 



s, 



I^ome, WateittoWi] \ Ogden^bufg \. \. 

•» . — j a THE ©===-«• 

GREAT TOURIST ROUTE 

TO AND FROM 

Niagara Falls, Thousand Islands of River St. Lawrsnce, While Hountiins, Portland 

AND NEW ENGLAND SUMMER RESORTS. 
Through Express Trains, with Wagner Palace Sleeping and Drawing-Room Cars Attached, 

Run daily (Sundays excepted) between Niagara Falls, Syracuse and Cai'k Vincent and Clayton. Con- 
necting at Cai'E Vincenl with steamer for Kingston, Oxt. Also with the 

NEW STEEL PLATE SIDE-WHEEL STEAMER " ST, LAWRENCE" FOR 

CLAYTON, THOUSAND ISLAND PARK, ROUND ISLAND PARK and ALEXANDRIA BAY. 

CONNECI'INU AT CLAYTON WITH THE 



^^^ 



£\ 



WW ^^ ^^vE^ ^^/ ^^^ ^ ^' ^m^j iM a 11 s* 
m PHii^cE D^y ^TE^jaER^ f0i^ M@N5^RE^I£ mb Quebec, 

And all Eastern Summer Resorts, passing the Thousand Islands and descending the Hapids by Daylii^lit. 




fhe QILT MM mmmg WkmM SL1E1II& mi MAmM^MM G4EJ 

BETWEEN 

Niagara Falls, White Mountains and Portland. 

steel Rails, Westinshouse Automatic Air Bralie, Miller Platforms. 

Connections made in Union Depots, tlius Avoiding all 

Transfers of Passengers and Baggage. 

Tlirougli Tickets, Roiiiid Trip Exoiirsion Tickets, Time Tables and in formation can be obtained at the 
Company's Stations, and at the principal ticket ottices of all coiniectiiiij- lines. 



H. M. BRITTON, Gen' I Manager. 



E. M. MOORE, Gen' I Pass. Agt. 



9° 



AMERICAN HOUSE, 




!n!sasH";as2sasasa JHSESHSH 



Central 

Location! 



8 BJI 



a i a a j_ a e e 1'3 ■? o tr s 3 : -3 t ss ? . 



SHSHsasPSHsa^asasESHSHSH 



ITtML?B!a^t-?f:]?tTt''^U.U^JX^ ^ Perfect 






Ventilation! 



UNEXCEPTIONABLE TABLE, 



PARTICULARLY DESIRABLE 



For Kamilies and TPouirists. 

The Nearest Pirst-Olass Hotel to Eastern or Nortlieru Depots. 
LEiV/S RICE & SON, Hanover, near Washington Street. 

DANIELS' HOTEL, 

PRESGOTT, ONTARIO. 



J.. H. DANIBLS, 



Pro|n-i<'<<n- iiiwl Maiuisei'. 



J' .1. 



X^^'W 1\' K^ lil te-« 1, 




]•'" i rxt d.' jxx T.- 



11 > i<. ', 



N 



2; 



l\\'i(ox I\4<)< Icr.'ite. 



91 

-vj^s^v THOUSAND ISLANDS. •♦-^^^ 

NTERNHTIONJiL HOT 



H 



This new and commodious Hotel is fitted up in the most modern style with every 
convenience and comfort that guests can desire. It commands full views of the Islands and 
St. Lawrence River, and is in close proximity to the places of business. 



BIIJXJI-^I^3D i^ooiKd: i3sr coo^intectioitt. 



BOATS AND OARSMEN FURNISHED. 



C. QUINOLLK, 



F*roprietor. 



ST. LOUIS HOTEL, 









[i|iiiiiii|i!,e! lBIIPI-JIIIIimsifI 
j, 'iKKmlfi i_|.,Iri!Eji s^anyssiiii, ... , 

OUEBEC, ).^f iBWwift'aiiiiiiiiJfirl CANADA, 

'MMLlHli'iiiM 




THE ST. LOUIS HOTEL, 



WHICH IS UNRIVALED FOR 



^ gIZE, 5WLE, ^ND Ii0C^mTY IN QOEBEC, #- 

Is eligibly situated in the immediate vicinity of the most delightful and fashionable promenades— the Gov- 
ernor's Garden, the Citadel, the Esplanade, the Place d'Armes, the Durham Terrace— which furnish the splen- 
did views and magnificent scenery for which Quebec is so justly celebrated, and which is unsurpassed in any 
part of the world. 

The proprietors, in returning thanks for the very liberal patronage they have hitherto enjoyed, inform the 
p:' ' c that this Hotel has been thoroughly renovated and embellished, and can now accommodate about five 
1: Jred visitors; and assure them that nothing will be wanting on their part that will conduce to the comfort 
a..d enjoyment of their guests. 

Til mmWLl IQ'fll* mXy. Fio|Rsters, WlllM illSllL, Frgsifeai 

-hCumberlund House>- 



-(S:^=^— c. 



F*lattsbuirgl:L, N. Y., 



UPON LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 

A pleasant stopping point en route between the West and the New 
England Resorts, or between Canada and Saratoga or Lake George. 

C. S. AVERILL, Proprietor. 



92 



W. NILES SMITH. 



JOHN UNSER. 



Til© VTeai 




ilPJ 



CLAVTON, N. V. 



ISL.-IXDS, 
A'lVEA' 
ST. LAWRENCE. 



a r 




/e 



GOOD BOA TS A. YD 

EXPEKIEXCED 

OAKSME.y. 



^ r 



-m THE WEST END. e- 



^IIIS Hotel has been newly built and furnished throughout; is located 
in the business part of the village, and within fifty feet of the 
St. Lawrence River, affording a beautiful view of the River and Islands 
from either veranda. Tourists and pleasure seekers will find this a 
first-class Hotel. 

BRITISH -AMERICy\N HOTEL, 

KINGSTON, ONTARIO. 



V i:\v iiocsi-:. 

>s^Ti':\v iTRxiTrkic Tiik()i:(,ii()rT. 



w 



ILL p,i<: ()1M':n .iulv i"ikst 



;j gPEGiyiL ^I^I^H]^QE]\1E]^']:'^ FOI^ 1'OlJl^l^'l'^. 



t 



R 



OOMS EN SUITE. 



wv. iiNi'ST Horsi': IN THi': crrv. 



I 



11. .MOST (•OWi'Nli'.NTLV LOCATIvl). 



A. McFAUL, Proprietor, 

Laic (j( ilic Cily ll'iul. 



"HAVE YOU EVER VISITED OLD POINT COMFORT?" 

IF NOT, you have failed to learn from personal experience that here 
is located one of the grandest of American tourist hotels. 



THE VAST AND POPULAR 



HYGEIA HOTEL, 

Located beside the gray walls of Fortress Monroe, is open throughout the year, and enjoys a " season" which 
practically never ends. 

It is a most delightful stopping place en route homeward from Florida in the Spring. 

It is quite as pleasant as a halting-place after the close of the northern season, and before the opening of 
the Florida Winter hotels. 

Superb Music by the fine band of Fortress Monroe. 
Picturesque details of Military and Naval life ! Thrilling historic surroundings ! 

A dry and agreeable climate ! Unexcelled Sea Bathing, Sailing and Fishing ! 

Hard and level Shell Roads for driving. 



Reached by Bay Line Steamers from Baltimore, which leave immediately upon arrival 
of Steamboat Express from New York. By Old Dominion Steamers from New York via 
Norfolk. By Chesapeake & Ohio Railway from Richmond. By James River Steamer from 
Richmond. By Norfolk & Western Railway. 




/WHE above is the only FIRST-CLASS HOTEL situated in the centre of the City of Montreal kept on the 
1 American and European plans — a necessity so long desired by the traveling public. During the past win- 
ter the Hotel has been REBUILT AND ENLARGED, and now extends through from St. Vincent Street 
to Jacques Cartier Square, forming the largest and most complete block of buildings in this city. It contains 

ACCOMIVIODATION FOR OVER 400 GUESTS, 
with every possible modern convenience and luxury that careful thought can suggest, and has, situated on the 
roof of the main building, a Garden with Pavilion — from which guests can obtain the finest panoramic view of 
the City, Mountain, River St. Lawrence and surroundings, thus making this Hotel by far the most preferable 
resort for tourists in the City of Montreal. 

The TERMS of this Hotel will be found as reasonable as any first-class house on the continent, and are as 
follows: AMERICAN PLAN, from Two ($2) to Three ($3) Dollars per day; rooms en suite,yN'\V\\ bath attached, 
extra. EUROPEAN PLAN, rooms from One ($1) Dollar per day upwards. RESTAURANT, a la carte. 

Tourists will find on every boat one of our Agents, who will be honored to receive any orders and make 
any special agreement to secure them all the comtort required. 

One visit is respectfully solicited to convince the public ,of the comfort and completeness of our arrangements. 

TOURISTS ARE SPECIALLY WARNED 

against the misrepresentations of interested parties, this being the only really First-class Hotel m the city that 
is conducted on the European and American principle. 

ISIDORE B. DUROCHER, Propr. 

N. B. — The 'Busses of the Hotel will be found awaiting the arrival of all Trains and Steamers. 



94 



HOTEL CHAMPLAIN, 



MAQUAM BAY, SWANTON, VT. 



^rcprietor. 



A NEW RESORT ! New House ! New Furniture ! Good Table and a Good Bed 



Board per Day, $2. 



Board by the Week, $S to $14. 



No pains will be spared to make it pleasant for guests. Excellent Boating and Fishing. Delightful drives 
in everj' direction. Steam Vaclu, Sail and Row Boats. Bowling Alleys and a Good Livery connected. 

Maquam Bay is located on the East shore of Lake Champlain, at the terminus of St. Johnsbury & Lake 
Champlain and Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain Railroads ; and Steamer Maquam plies between this point 
and Plattsburgh, N. Y. 

This Hotel is supplied with Good Water. Gas, and Electric Bells. Screens on all windows and doors. For 
a quiet and picturesque resort, this place offers superior advantages. 




MONTREAL, CAN. 




, ^ '^^ c-r, r'.--J 0^-.. i-^ CC5 v^ Ir'.VtT :ar 'ml Til 

^^^^^'us^iffJM _ 



titl.'F L:3Lil 'i'M M.. H. llJ!LiJ[.]i..I.M ii ' ':Ji 

u'iii'5,iiii'iiiii!!iiiii, niiin'Biii'iiM/niiiii.MrDiniMi'iiiHiiriiiini'iiiiiiTiii 'nihi 



||^f!?;1iritlf|flililMlf|f^!S| 






.U.^ 



'm|''w4 



lr>gt>'fairliiiirr 



THIS LARGE, FIRST-CLASS HOTEL 

Is, liV ITS StU'KRIOR LOCAIION 

-^ EKpeci.'illx' A( l.-ij )t(.M 1 for T< )i i rixts. -t:-^ 
RATES, $2.00 per Day. 

STl^ullt^S 0' M run AY, 

PROPRIETORS. 

KATHBUN ITOUSK 

CAPE VINCENT E0T1L. 



(R., VV. A (). DEPOT.) 



H. \.. 1 '( >X cV- S( )X, 



1 *!"( ) 1 ) r id < ) r 



CAPE VINCENT, N. Y. 



95 



KIRBY HOUSE, 



•WATERTOVTIT, IT. Y. 



Free carria^'e meets all trains. 



Located only two minutes from depots. 

The favorite business-men's and travelers' hotel of 



the city. 
Table unexceptionable. 



S. V. WARNBR, 



Proprieto}'. 



S KASON 1884 



SARANAC LAKE HOUSE. 

PLEASANT ■ ' ^^^t'^ ^^'^ 

' mk ■ ' SPORTSMEN 
SUMMER AW^^K AND 

^^^^^^ '^^^^^^^ FAMILIES. 

SSRSNHC MKE, N. Y., aPIRON DflCK MOUNTAINS. 

MILO B. MILLER, Proprietor. 

RATES: $3 per day; $17. 50 per week. 

CHILDREN UNDER TEN YEARS AND SERVANTS, HALF PRICE. 



Camp Supplies and Boats on Reasonable Terms. Experienced Guides in attendance. 

^^°°The patronage of Israelites is not desired under any consideration, experience having demonstrated 
that their presence is not congenial to other guests. 



96 




.._ 'y^___ . ■' ■' - 




^>^'o ^» tl.'Mj4©M;5/=/?op^/£r6'/^ 




OODKNSBTJRa, N. V. 

This well-known Hotel has just been remodeled and refurnished throughout. A large 
number of new rooms, spacious dining hall, magnificent office, grand staircase, bath rooms, 
<S:c., have been added, and it is now the leading Hotel in Northern New York. The cuisine 
is unsurpassed and no effort will be spared to make the stay of visitors pleasant and enjoy- 
able. The hotel is centrally located, near the Post Office, 0|)era House, proniinenl stores 
aad places of interest. 



. .t^zr- i- TOURISTS AND XRAVEI.ERS ♦^ 



^^ 



to the Thousand Islands, the Adirondacks or Canadas, should not fail to make a shorter or 
longer stay in Ogdensburg, the prettiest city on the St. Lawrence. lis lu;ilihy ( liniale, 
beautiful streets and buildings, and many attractions, is ra|)i(ll\' liriiigiiig it lo the nmicc of 
pleasure seekers. 

For Fishing, Gunning and Sailing there is no better locality on the .Si. Lawrence River. 



Hubbard House, 



is^3^ t cztL, nsr 



-^ 



REFURNISHED FOH THE PRESENT SEASON. 

(;as .\m> i;ij;( IKK wvaa.s in i;vi;i:v ijooim. 

TABLE SUI*l'I.II-.l) U rill MILK ANIi \K(,KTAI'.I,l':s I'ko.M Mil' III l:r.\l;l> IHiisl'. PAKM. 



97 



ADIRONDACKS! CHATEAUGAY LAKE! 



D. W. MEPxRILL & SONS, 



Proprietors. 



W 



'HIS house is situated near tlie north end of the lake, and commands a dehghtful view of the entire lake, 
;!^!^ with its island center and beautiful mountains surrounding it. House is conducted in a neat and orderly 
^ manner; has been recently lefurnished, and contains nice piano and organ, new carpets, spring beds, 
and all facilities for making guests comfortable. Fresh trout daily. Best of fresh spring water. Competent 
and obliging guides always in readiness to pilot guests to excellent fishing grounds and all places of interest, 
in best made boats. E.xcellent roads lead to charming views in the vicinity. Connections made with stage 
for Rogersfield and by Steamer Adirondack to Chateaugay Station. Mails received daily. Telegraph office 
in the house. Rates: per day, $1.50; week, $8 to $10.50; meals. 50 cts. Post office address, ROGERSFIELD 
CLINTON CO., N. Y. 



St. IvAwrencb Hall, 



Q 



H. HOGAN, 

Proprietor. 






W 



rfflF" 



M^ 







,'',,^n#^'^^^''^'^'^'^' ^''^"'' 






\ I 



S. MONTGOMEEY, 



Manager. 



u 



In point of convenience and management, the St. Lawrence Hall is eclipsed by no hotel on this continent. 
This structure scarcely needs description, its old familiar solid cut-stone front, facing on St. James, with its 
five stories, is familiar to the great majority of bon vivants who have visited Montreal from the United States 
and Europe during the last thirty years. It runs rearward through the two blocks intervening between its 
front entrance and Craig Street, on the latter of which a portico supported by four massive stone pillows 
marks out the private entrance for ladies and guests. It contains about three hundred guest rooms, grand 
dining hall with a seating capacity of five hundred at once, besides parlors, billiard-rooms and elegant offices, 
reading rooms and sample rooms for commercial travelers. 

A new wing has also been added containing 100 rooms, all new and elegantly furnished, also passenger and 
baggage elevators, and the halls and the public rooms are illuminated by the electric and incandescent lio'hts, 
making it the most attractively-lighted hotel in the Dominion, in fact it is scarcely necessary to say that the house 
has all the modern improvements. All its rooms communicate with the office by electric signals ; hot and cold 
baths and water-closet conveniences are provided on each floor, whilst the ventilation will be found most per- 
fect, healthy and pleasant. The cooking arrangements are conducted in the rear portion of the building. The 
entire house is furnished in a degree of lu.\ury and taste regardless of cost, and in the latest modern style. It 
is protected by the latest inventions and appliances from fire ; its ground floor is beautifully tiled with marble, 
and we may say that the grand dining hall and parlors are models of taste and splendor in their fittings and all 
appointments, whilst a score of skilled attendants minister to the comforts of its guests. In fact the St. Law- 
rence Hall is now fully worthy of our beautiful city, of which its past growth and prosperity has been typical. 




WeldenoHouse, 

ST. ALBANS, VT. 



A First-class Tourists' and Busi- 
ness-men's House. 



THOS. LAVENDER, 

Proprietor. 



98 



^=4lS!S5 



No. 178 BROADWAY, NEW YORK, 

AVholesale and retail dealer in 



ii 



GUNS, FISHING TACKLE, 



BOATS, 




IL. .^f^ TXT" 3^ TZElsrn^IS, 



AND EVERYTHIXG FOR THE 



FOREST, FIELD or STREAM. 

Send 35 cents for the largest and finest Catalogue of Sportsmen's supplies ever 
published in the United States. 




jf" OTSEGO LAKE 

0iDnEnatniiJnlU 



ONL Y EIGH T HOURS FROM 
NEW YORK CITY. 

Same Altitude as 
Adirondacks and Catskills. 



No Mala hia, 
Nn 1 1 AY Fm, 
No Mosquitoes. 

Fine Boating, Fishing 
and Driving. 

'>^IIE COOI'KH HOUSE, accom- 
>* iiiodatioiis for 500 Kiiests, will 
npcn iil)oiit Jiine »). Mbenil Man- 
aK'<'iiifn<- Ueasonabl*^ Prices. New 
route throuKli the CatsltillH to 
CooperHlown fOtsejto I.alo'), Uicli- 
(li-l(l SpriiiKH. 'I'rciiloii Kails iinil 
•I'liollsaiKl iHlaiids. Sc.nl Imp ilhis- 
tnili'il [iiiinplili'l. 

5 £. CRITTENDEN, Prop. 



99 



Tlie Hotel WiiiLclsor, 



SITUATED ON THE SHORE OF 



Rouses Point, N. Y. 



This new Sporting and Summer Resort will be open from May ist to Nov. ist for Pleasure Travel. 
Its principal attractions are, cool nights and best of beds for sleeping, fine fishing, rowing and sailing. 
Steamer "Reindeer" makes regular trips from Rouses Point to Burlington and return daily (Sundays 
excepted), touching at wharf in front of Hotel. All along the route are Very Beautiful points for picnic and 
camping parties, reduced rates for which will be gladly made. Children in particular can have all the cool 
pure milk they want, at any time, FREE; and especial efforts will be made to make ladies and children happy 
and comfortable during their visit at the Windsor. Physician living next door to the Hotel. Rouses Point is 
located on the direct route between the Thousand Islands and the White Mountains— and also between Mon- 
treal and Saratoga. The Hotel has water-closets and bath-room. The piazzas are broad and the view 
very fine. A fine 'bus will be run to all trains. The rates for transient pleasure guests will be three dollars 
per day. Board from eight to twenty dollars per week, according to rooms. Laundry for washing guests' 
clothing run in connection with the Hotel. Boat livery will also be kept. 



"THE INGLESIDE" 

(Formerly Montgomery Hall), 

Is located immediately opposite the Hotel Windsor, and will be run as an acquisition to the Hotel. It 
contains a very fine dancing hall, ice-cream parlor, smoking and reading room, and a commodious hall for 
whist or social parties. 

Ladies and children will find it an agreeable place to while away any hours allotted to pleasure. 

Application for board made to 

ABIJAH NORTH, Proprietor. 

-^' COLO NIA L II O USE, ^^^ 
MOITTHZAIi. 



HENRY MORGAN & CO., 



IMPORTERS OF 



Carpets, Oil Cloths and Upholstering Materials. 



IMPORTERS AND MANUFACTURERS OF 



Street, Dtrtner, or JEvenzng Costizmes cind jMctntles. 



A full line of Tweed Suitings, Overcoatings, Silk, Lisle and Merino Hosiery, 
Underclothing, Scarfs, Ties, Gloves, &c., &c. 



ONLY FIRST-CLASS CUTTERS EMPLOYED. 



s^MFSEe ©F- M^^-E-KiAiSSi m:mmT w^ wMm,, Wfmmm wBmtmmm, 



"THE NIAGARA FALLS ROUTE." 

MICHIGAN CENTRAL 

THE GREAT EAST AND WEST HIGHWAY 

To the Health and Pleasure Resorts of the Xortli, running Fast Express Trains of superb equipment, and 
making close connections at all junctions and terminal points. Palace Cars run through without change from 
the Eastern seaboard to Chicago, via Niagara Falls and Detroit ; and eastward from Chicago to Toronto, 
Buffalo, Syracuse, Boston, and New York, connecting at Suspension Bridge with the R., W. & O. R. R. for 
the Thousand Islands, Adirondacks and White Mountains. 

On the opening of the great steel cantilever bridge, the Buffalo E.rJ>rt-ss announced in an editorial on 
the subject that •' at last the Michigan Central Railroad Company opens a through East and West route which 
is honestly a Niagara Falls route, and which gives the tourist full and leisurely opportunities to see Niagara 
Falls without once leaving his seat. By the new route the traveler is not simply given a distant and obscure 
view of the Falls. He is taken down the river on the New York side. From Buffalo to Tonawanda he rides, 
much of the way, along the river bank, and can study the force and sweep of the great current. Then, as he 
rides along, he has a full view of the two great arms of the river that encompass Grand Island. Just before he 
reaches Niagara Falls village he can see the first break of the river into the upper rapids. He crosses the 
stream by the new cantilever bridge, and has a general view of the Falls, which is better than that heretofore 
obtained from the old bridge, because it is a nearer view. Then he skirts along above the Canadian bank un- 
til ' Falls View' is reached. This point of observation has heretofore been reached only by the Niagara City 
branch of the Canada Southern. It has not been on the East and West route at all. Now all through trains 
stop at ' Falls View,' which is really one of the finest views of the Falls anywhere to be had. 

" Certainly such a route may be honestly called a ' Niagara Falls route,' and the traveling public cannot be 
long in finding out the genuineness of its attractions. It only remains to add that by the new route, all through 
Michigan Central trains go directly East from the Falls, via Buffalo, thus sccurmg the advantage of all the 
city connections, and at the same time making fast schedule time on the through route." 

It should also be remembered that to the " wave-washed tourists' paradise," Mackinac Island, the noted 
Northern Hay-Fever Resort of Tapinabee, the delightful and picturesque scenes and hunting and fishing 
grounds of Northern Michigan, the MICHIGAN CENTRAL is the route. 

F. I. WHITNEY, 



As- 



Cjvn 



i 
iss'r .V Tkt. A.tjt. { 



CHICAGO. 



O. W. RUCCLES, 

(icn'l I'ass'r \ 'I'kt. Apt. 



One in 7 One in 6 One in 10 



\u 18H3, In ISSli, an<l over 

Oi- TiiosK I.NMJKKi) Undkr Tiik 



Siiui' 1,S(»4, 



ACCIDENT IM ) r. I C I B S 



THE TKWELERS 

INSUHANCE CO OF 




LIFE « HCCIHT 

IIAKTRJllD, CONN. 



Itrcrixcil I'atal oi- I >i>:il>li ii<; I ii.jii ri<-s, mimI wi'rr Paid Casli Iteiicfits, 

Amounting to $064,255.21 in 1883, and over $9,500.00 in all. 

Only $5 ^" $'0 per year, for all ordin.'iry employments, .secures $1,000 in case of 
death, $5 [ler week ior flis.ililing injury. Our Life and iMnlowment I'olii ics are llie < heap- 
csl and best protection in the market. 

For Travelers' Ti< kets, 2$ cents from one to si.\teen days, $4.50 for thirty days, 
insuring $3,000 and $15 Weekly indemnity (not limited to .u ( i<lciiis ol iia\(l), arc for sale 
at every imp<»rtant railroad station in the country. 

Assets. $7,435,000, Surplus to Policy-Holders, $1,868,000. 

F'.i iumIi'I '1 ri ins, ( .ill (,n i,\ u i ilc- lo ..iiv Ak'-iiI, m ihi- I Iwiik' f )IIii ■■ al I l.itlfnul. 

im\ S. BATIERSOS, Froideni mW. DEHNIS, Stc'j, JOHN E, imi Ais't Stc'j, 



FIREWORKS ! ILLDMIHATIONS ! 

SIGNAL LIGHTS AND DECORATIONS! 



The Unexcelled Fireworks Company is prepared to 
ship by express or freight, upon short notice, all varieties of small 
and large Fireworks, supplies of Colored Fires, Flags, Balloons, 
Lanterns and other decorative goods for cottage, hotel, 
steamboat and camp use. 

SPECIAL EXHIBITION PIECES MADE TO ORDER OF ANY DESIGN. 

Experienced decorators sent anywhere upon reasonable 
notice with abundant supplies of bunting, escutcheons and flags. 

Send for our new catalocrue in colors and our general 
price list. 

THE UNEXCELLED FIREWORKS CO., 

9 and 11 Park Place, New York. 

Pleasure Boats a"'^ Canoes. 




I build a great variety of Small Craft. OPEN CANOES, PLEASUKE BOATS, 
and DECKED or SAILING CANOES. Lengths from lo to 18 feet. Weight from 15 
to 150 pounds. Prices from $30 to $200 The siding for all these boats is Canadian White 
Cedar, with Spanish Cedar or Mahogany for top streak on some of them. 

The Lightest Hunting Boats. The Finest Fishing Boats. The Fastest Sailing Canoes 
are from my factory. Send stamp for Illustrated Catalogue. 



jSteamer I^L/IJ^D W^jIDEI^E]^. 



The tourist's only 
source of knowledge 
and way oi seeing the 
wonderful beauty of the 
Thousand Islands, is to 
gdze from the deck of 
the Steamer Island 
W'AXDEKEK.as she passes 
on her forty- mile trip 
among the islands. 

Remember the name 
and that she is the only 
boat making regular 
trips. 

TIJJET/IBLE. 

Leave Alexandria Bay 
at 8 A. .M. and 2 r. m. 

Leave Thousand Island 
Park at 8 40 a. m. and 
2.55 V. .M. 

Leave Round Island 
Park at 9 A. m. 

Reaching Gananoque 
at 10 A. .M. and 4 p. m.. 
and connecting there 
with Grand Trunk 
R. R. at 4 1-. M. 




.<£-- 



THE 



ABC PATHFINDER 

Railwav Guide. 



One of the best travelini^ companions on a pleasure trii) is a 
relialjle Rail\va\' Guide, and we advise the tourist to <j^et the best, 
as a cheap L;uidi; is hke a cheap walch — never on tiinc. I he 
1*A I ill i.\i>i:k R.MiAv.w ("iiiDj-. has official labK-s and many 
\aluabl(' nia|)S, and the tourist will lind a cop)' ol this work 
indispensable. Ask an\' newsdctcdcr lor il. or address 

PATHFINDER, Boston. 



!E^x'i<c<!& 



C3^xa.t;s;. 



Tra\'l'rs .i^oiiiL,'^ inl(; New England shoiiKl get a cop)' of 
this \-ahiable inonthl)'. 



PHOTOGRAPHY MADE EASY 



BY THE NEW DRY-PLATE PROCESS. 



Any lady or geci^e- i 
man can take photo- 
graphs &i scenes thro' 
whicb they pass, and 
■ru; ::::!- interesting 
cit— er.: t^ :f their trio. 



Amateur 0-::5t=. >-; 



illustratec catalogne. 




Most of the faeautiiul 
cuts in this -work were 
mace from photographs 
taken ■with one of our 



-~^^=^ ^"^'-'ii'i^J^r ~~~^'~ ^xJ^ '^"^^'-^ ^i'M 



— ..,^/-J_^. Forty Years Estab- 

lished in this line oi 



\-± 



E- & H. T. ANTHONY & CO., 591 Broadway, N. Y. 



SEYMOUR 



SE, 




^^HE Prc'prietor of this c2airaQ3" located - jn4 h^iing iore! desires to aimounce that, Ixaving- secnred. 
(s, the House for a ns'w term of years- he ^a~ made esxetisive inproTrmeiits in its tamishings 
and eotripmenis. Zse's' and larsre simt'Ie rocuLS for CotLirterclal Ziles have bsen adied on 
the ground £c-"r. 

Carriages vrill meet all trsiEa atii szaamers. 

Berumins h's thatifc? for the "ery Wvjt^I oarronnge extended during Ms long proxjrietorsMp. 
3Ir. TiXXXA^r hopes, by every attention to Ms old and ns^w- gnests. to secure its eontimiance. 



17 Bleury St., and Parlo- Ho. 116 Windsor Hotel, 



Viaws of all Piacis of Intirist is ths Dominion 






BraQches at Ottawa. O.it.. St. Jotn. H. B.. Halifai. N, S., AFoafiy, N.Y,. Boston, M2ss., Newport. R, I. 

^^3SSTy ^^^ L/Asfra:ea RaiLiiay and Siecmzhip 

. - ^^S^ •^. ^..^ Q e^ripfke p amphlets 

AD£ A LEAZIHQ FEATURE. 

I'sTiS. by cur oun Ar'Aitz, 



'EYE S^^^'HUlEfi / ^^^^^ ^""^ ^'''^^'^ z)55/j-/?^, 



FURlllSHED Wmi ESnUATES FOR 

EXeSAVIHG AMD PRIUTIfSe. 



Eiiery description of First Glass Engrc^'r.g 

BT HSM. SPEEH'f AAO ECOXOMICAL t ETHOS'S. 

C-^rrtr'ju::irjTz far Uanuf/^s', Rai'.srag and Steamship Printed S'jpp:ies. 



I04 



•K- Complete ^uirimer Tours. # 



A comprehensive system of Summer Tourist Tickets at low rates is presented 
for the Season of 1584, embracing : 

SAGUE.YA Y NIJ'ER, 
SHARON SPRIXGS, 

COOPERSTOJrX, 
RICHFIELD SPRINGS, 

ALEXANDRIA BA Y, 
ST. LA ]V PENCE RIVER, 

NIAGARA FALLS, 



CRANSTON'S, IVEST POINT, 

CORNWALL, MONONA' LAKE, 

LAKE M IN NEW A SKA, 

THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS, 

SARA TOGA, LAKE GEORGE, 

ADIRONDACK'S, 

MONTREAL, QUEBEC, 



CHATAUQUA LAKE, 

And all the Popular Siuniner Resorts and Boarding Places along the Jl'est Shore of the 
Hudson River in Cential, Northern and Western xVeio York. 

WEST SHORE ROUTE 



Along the Historic and Picturesque West Shore of the Hudson River. 





FAVORITE LIUE FOR BUSIITESS AlTD PLEASURE TRAVIL 



Baggage Checked from Hotels and Residences to Destination. 



Tickets, Time Tables, Koiite Books, Siiiniiior Hotel jiimI IJoanliiij? 

House Lists, and Iiif'oniiatioii i'liniisluMl upon a]>|>li- 

cation i» Ollices of tlie Conipaiij : 

IN NEW YORK.— N'os, 162, 261, 3O3. 946, 1323 Broadway; No. 737 Sixili Avenue, and 
N'u. i'»:j i:;isi i25lh Street; Offices in Depots foot of Cortlandt Street, Desbrosses 
Sinei, and West 42d Street. 

IN BROOKLYN.— No, 4 Court Street; Anne.x Ollicc, foot of Fulton Street; No. S38 
I'ullDii Sir'ct, rind N'o. 7 Dekall) Avenue. 

IN WILLIAMSBURGH.— Van Nostrand's Express OfTice, 107 lirondway. 

IN JERSEY CITY.- i'.nnsylvania R. R. Ticket Office in Station. 

IN HOBOKEN. -liauscr \ Schuh/e, No. 115 Washington Sireet. 



Address •' V.. I. HURRITT. Kaslcrn ['assen^cr AKcnt, West Shore Route, 3(^.3 
Broadway, New York City," for Tourist Route Hooks, Time Tables, Suinmtr {{o.irdinj; 
Lists, and full information. Enclose iwo-ccni stamp for complete set. 



PR/NCf/'Af. IREfGHl- AND PASSENGER Ol-l/Cl.. 

No. 363 BROADWAY, cor. Franklin St., UEW YORK. 



. 1 ? TO 



ftmm »0)TOs>e 



^ %• 



OSWEGO, 



N. Y. 




BUILT OVER THE 
CELEBRATED DEEP 
ROCK MINERAL 
SPRING. 



One of the finest 
and most healthful 
Summer Resorts in 
the Country. 

Elegantly refitted 
throughout. 



■^RATES REASONABLE, WITH SPECIAL REDUCTIONS TO EAMILIES.i0 

Messrs. DEUEL & CHAMBERLAIN, 

(Late of the Clarendon Hotel, Saratoga), 

^PAVE lately taken a long lease of the above well-known place of Summer Resort, and 
'•%■■:> refitted it throughout in superb style, making it by far the superior of any house in 
Northern New York. 








The largest and best equipped Hotelin ClaTton. The cuisine is supplied ^vith all the delicacies of 
the season. All modern improrements. It is furnished -nith gas, has steam and water, and is well 
provided and guarded against fire. Terms reasonable and special reductions to famihes. 



io6 



■V-3 . FN' 



MONTREAL^newjarloe^^itieEPORTLAND. 

Montreal ^ Boston Air Line 

"Souih-Easiern," ■■ Passumpsic," and Boston, Concord 4 Monlfeal Railroads, 

THE GRAND NEW ENGLANMOURIST ROUTES. 

I MONTREAL. 



To Lake Memphremagog, Passumpsic Valley, and Crystal Lake, "White Mountains, 

Bethlehem, Fabyan House, Twin Mt. House, Profile House, Crawford Hoiase, 

Summit of Mt. "Washington, and "White Mountain Notch, Lake Winni- 

piseogee, Portland, Old Orchard Beach, Mt. Desert, Boston, 

Long Island Sound and I>ew York. 

NO OTHER LINE CAN OFFER A FAST DAY EXPRESS, 

Equipped with elegant new Parlor Cars, leaving Montreal at 9 a. m., rii lining' through to Porllniid nithout 

chanse, arriving ther« S.".I5 p. ni., Old Orchard Beach S.50 p. in., passing the GREEN JIOUNTxVINS, 

LAKE MK.MPHKEM.VGOG, and through the FAMOUS WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH. 

r)^KAST EXPRESS TRAINS-^ ^T) 

^^^ DAILY, EXCEPT SUNDAY, BETWEEN ^^^ 

I^ave MONTKKAL '.i a. ni. ami V. li> p. iii. Arrive BOSTON 8. 15 p. iii. ami S.:J0 a. in. 

Parlor Cars run throuijh without change on Day Express. SUPERB PUIJ-MAX C.VUS run through 
without change on Niglit E.viiress. Only route between Montreal and Boston passing LAKE MEMPHKE- 
MAGOG, the SUNSET SLOPE OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS and LAKE WINNIPISEOGEE. 



MONTREAL TO NEW VORl 

Via " SOU PH-E ASTERN" AND CONNECTICUT RIVER LINE, 



V, 



OfTecing a contintious view of Charming Scenery, following the Connecticut Biver 

for 240 Miles. 

Ask for Tickets via Newport, on Lake Memphremagog. 

FOR SALE AT ALL PRINCIPAL TICKET OFFICES, AND AT 

„.^„ „ , ^_,^ . 207 Broadway and 5 Union Square, New York. 

L.Il,Vhv CX ALUc^No' 200 "WnHhington Street, BoHton. 

'»»r»TTE»T«i'T' oir IT r r- IT «=. i N. E. Cor. Broad and Cliostnut StH., Philadolph iu. 

TOURIST OrFICEt>, ) Opposite St. Loiuh IIolol, Qutboc. 

'■-; And at So-ath-Eactern B'y Office, 202 St. James St., Montreal. ^ 

W. C. ANDRU3, Western P.ibb. Aiient, W. RAYMOND. Cener;il Agent, 

'<i') 4, 97 WaHhiiujlon St., Ohinago, 111, 240 Wahliin),Mon bl,, Boston, Mass, 

N. P. LOVERINC, Jr., C<>n'l Pass. Agisnt, H. E. FOLSOM, Superintendent, 

PaHHiiinphic Railroad, PuHHiunpBio Railroad, 

'LYtlDONVlLLE, VERMONT 
T. A. MACKINNON, Con'l Mnn.igor, So. Castorn R'y, Montreal. 



I07 



1765, 1767, 1769, 1771, 1773, 1775, 1777 NOTEE DAME ST., 

MONTREAL, 

And IS BarthLolomev^ Close, London, England. 



LEVE (5^ AL DEN, 

Take pleasur*^ in inviting: all who contemplate a Pleasure Tour to call at their offices for information as 
to Rates and Tickets via the MOST POPULAR ROUTES TO ALL 

MOUNTAIN, LAKE, KIVER AND SEASIDE EESOETS, CITIES, POINTS OP INTEREST, ETC, ETC. 

To the Thousand Islands, Alexandria Bay, Ogdensburg and Montreal. 

New Vork and Thousand Island Line via Cape Vincent, Clayton and Alexandria Bay, connecting with the 
NEW AMERICAN LINE for Montreal and beyond. 



E-EVB «e &,%MWM ^-©WRIS^' 0-We%^mM 



307 Broadway, 



■ New York. 



5 Union Square. ( 
136 St. James St., Montreal, Canada. 



39G Washington St., Boston. 

Broad & Cliestnut Sts., Pliiladelpliia. 

38 St. Lioiiis S't., <3uebec, Canada. 




NOW IN ITS SIXTH YEAR. 



Leve & Alden, 207 Broadv^/ay, 



If ®;W iromK, 



FOR FREE DISTRIBUTION TO TRAVELERS. 



COPIES OF CURRENT ISSUE MAY BE HAD AT ANY OF 
THE LEVE 6- ALDEN OFFICES. 



EACH NUMBER CO NTAINS FINE IIIUSTRATIONS AND 
A GREAT DEAL OF USEFUL READING MATTER. 



io8 



UTICA a. BLACK RIYER RAILROAD. 



THE FA VORITE ROUTE FOR 

FASHIONABLE 

PLEASURE TRAVEL. 

The only AH Rail Route 

TO THE 

Thousand Islands, 

AND SHORT LINE 

TO ALL POINTS IN NORTHERN 

NEW YORK, RIVER ST. 

I<A WHENCE AND CANADA. 

This line is pre-eminently 
the route for Tourist travel 
and was constructed with 
that end in view. It runs 
via Vtica. Mohawk River, 
Cincinnati Creek. Trenton 
Falls. Hi-hlands of 
Brown's Tract, the Sunset 
Slope of the Adirondacks, 
Sugar River, Black River 
ani Indian River to the 
River St. Lawrence. It is 
popularly known as the 
Elegant Line to the Islands, 
and it is .\lisolutely the 
only Scenic Route. 

Tourists and Pleasure Seekers 

Will find the L'tica & 
Black Rivkr Railroah to 
be an elegant line. The 
Wagner Sleeping-Cars run- 
ning between New York 
and Clayton, and the Wag- 
ner Drawing-Room Cars 
running between Albany 
and Clayton, will be found 
as comfortable as any in 
the service. The elegant 
new Springfield d n y 
coaches, well lighted and 
ventilated, will run through 
from Utica to Watcrtown, 
Clayton and Ogdensburg, 
without chiinge. The 
track, of new steel rails, 
is in perfect condition. 
All trains are equipped 
with Westinghouse auto- 
matic air brake. The fast 
train service, avoiding 
stops and carrying through 
Drawing-room Cars, which 
is greatly nj)preciated by 
the pleasure travel, will bri 
continued this season. The 
ofllcials and fmj)lovfes of 
the Company will be found 
polite and attentive and a 
trip over this line will con- 
vince f>ne that noihing is 
omitted which can in the 
least condnci! to i he com- 
fort or pleasure of its pa- 
tronH. 

ATTKNTION '8 KKSTKCT- 

KUI.I.y I>II£Kf!TKI) To 

(Ji;u FAHT TItAlNH. 

Th"iiian<1 liUnil Kaal l.lnr Ipmn 

film ■! li.lO |i.m. r..-nlli« Ki.»l 

Mm- lrK<r> lllra '^.M |i.m 

Th<-KC trnlns maki- rljrect 
connr'i'tlons in Union Sta- 
tion nt Utica u 1th Fast Fx- 
proHH Trains from Clilcago 
and the Went, New York. 
Albany, Saratoga, Kich- 
fleld. fU:. The.se trains are 
nm expressly for the tour- 
ist travel Tln-y carry 
elegant Through Cars, 
make Few Stoi'h. and aro 
In every respect first class 
trains. 




E. A, VAN HORNE, CenM Sup't, 



THEO. BUTTFKKIIiLD, Gcn'l Pass. Agent, 



I07 WASHINGTON SSTREET, BOSTON, MASS. 



IMPOKTEKS OF 



Fine Guns. 




Agentb for W cV C Scott & Son'b tine safety block 
Hammerless and Hammer Double Guns also all 
other makes. All the different American RIFLES. 
" Maynard's," " Wesson's." and others. At present 
time, a job lot of the celebrated F. WESSON 
RIFLES, at $12 each. 

Agents for the RUSHTON CANOES and PLEASURE BOATS, which we can send to any address, 
also, OSGOOD'S FOLDING BOATS. 

FISHING RODS AND TACKLE, every variety. Special all-split Bamboo tine two-handed Black 
Bass Rod, $[S. Ditto sinirle hand and lighter, §15. Ditto Trout, $15 to $12. 




We have long made a specialty of 

Fine Bronze Yacht Cannon 

Breech Loading and Muzzle Loading. Handsomely 
mounted on Mahogany carriages, different sizes and cali- 
bres, and have furnished many to the New York and East- 
ern sf|uadrons. 

Send Stamp tor our Illustrated Circulars. 



The Divine Trout and Bass Rods. 



CHEAPEST AND BEST RODS EVER OFFERED TO FISHERMEN. 



TROUT ROD, all lancevvood, natural color, three joints, and extra tip, solid nickel 
mountings, cane-whipped butt, line guides wound with silk, either cardinal or green ; weight 
9 ounces ; length io]4. feet ; put up in cloth case. Price, $4. 

BASS ROD. — Same style as Trout Rod ; weight 1"],%. ounces ; lengtft 10 feet. Price, $5. 

These Rods are warranted the best ever offered for the money. Send for price list of 
other styles of rods of lancevvood or bethabara. Manufactured by 

FRED. D. DIVINE, UTICA, N. Y. 

OFFICE, 132 Genesee Street FACTORY, 76 State Street. 



Goods sent C. O. D. on receipt of $[ to cover express charges. 






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rW0US4/»0 I8UND HOUHE. AUnanMa B,.y. N. Y. K. H. Rn„lh„„U. ProprMnr 

PROSPECT HOUSE. Ajlir„n,l,u.k,. Blu, Hounlnin Lakr. N. Y..' R. H. Soulhaat.. Pro„rM„r. 
mRP*Y Hin Mnri, o . . CONOREHR HAIL. .S«r„»„„„ Sprlna.. N. Y.. Cl.m.nl. Co, A Soulhgnl.. 

MURRAY Hill "YnLBfJi^'"u"'rtT. '""' ^'" "" *"" ''°^*- """""" * ««"•'"»'«' O/""- S,.X,..,..r U,. 1RR4 

LOHO BEACH HOTEL, long Bpaoh. Long Inland. Soulhgal, A Hammond. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



017 397 405 A 



